dinkus

I used the 2-part Foliatec stuff on mine. It's expensive, but my god, nothing will shift the stuff once it's dry - not even paint stripper. Halfords also do own-brand calliper paint which is just a single pot, but I've no idea what that's like for longevity. The Foliatec stuff comes with a can of calliper cleaner, but if you buy other stuff, you want to make sure the callipers are as clean as you can get them before you paint them - if nothing else, get all the loose bits of corrosion off with a wire brush. If you don't, then the paint will just flake off after a few weeks and look poop. I went for black paint because it's nice and stealthy, it's not obvious that they're painted, but stops them looking manky and still get a nice glossy shine on them when they're clean. If you do go for the Foliatec stuff - it starts setting as soon as you mix it up, so make sure you've got everything ready before you start. If you're thinking of mixing up just half of it, then make sure you stir up each part on it's own very well before you mix them - otherwise the stuff won't set, or it'll be too thick and gooey to use. Annnd lastly - the paint sticks to anything and will not ever come off, so be careful where you paint :)

Heh heh, sounds like something sniffpetrol would come up with! :lol: Edit: and how do you know how salty I am...?

Yeah, it does look nice now, but seemed a bit odd losing the weather-proofing. Meh, if it gets manky I'm sure he's the kind of guy that'll just strip it all down and start again :D

Looking very sexy in that paintshop pic 8) I hadn't realised you'd stuck a charged VR in there tho - now it's gonna sound sexy too :norty: :D

Well if you can get the doorcards off, that's half the problem! The plan What you're trying to do is get the signal from the head unit to the crossover. It then branches from there to the tweeter and woofer. Luckily, most of the wiring you need to do that is already there. Assuming you've still got the standard wiring in place - the signal goes from the head unit, to the tweeter, then down from there to the woofer. So you need to take the wire that comes from the head unit and reroute it to wherever your crossover is instead of going into the tweeter. You then run 2 sets of wires back up from wherever your crossover is: The first set go back up to the tweeter The other set joins on to the existing wiring that used to go from the tweeter to the woofer. With me so far? :lol: Working out what goes where To work out which wire is which, pop the cover off the tweeter (it is push-fit, honest). The tweeter is then mounted into a round plastic tray thing, which also just pops out. Underneath, you have 2 plugs - one of those comes from the head unit, the other goes to the woofer. To find out which is which, put some music on and ideally fade it all the way to the side of the car you're working on. Now, unplug one of the 2 connectors and listen to what happens - if everything goes off, then the one you just unplugged is the one coming from the head unit. If the woofer just goes off but you can still hear the tweeter doing it's thang... and I'll let you work out which one you've just unplugged :) Where to put the crossovers Crossover positioning can be fun too - I put the one on the driver's side beind the footrest next to the accelerator pedal, but it's a tight fit so try it before you scrape your knuckles running the wire! The passenger side one I actually stuck to the side of the back of the glove box with some sticky pads, but you could drill a hole in the glove box and put it in there. If you didn't have ABS, it could go in the corresponding footrest position, but on the passenger side. Also bear in mind... There will be different connectors on the Infinity (or indeed any after-market) stuff to the VW wiring, so you'll need to get you a set of spade connectors. The speakers may not fit properly on the standard mounts - the diameter will be ok, but the new woofers will probably stick out a bit further than the Nokia jobbies. This means that you may need to put spacers on the pins on the door card that the woofer attaches to, or you cut away some of the door pod so that the speaker doesn't touch (you'll understand what I mean when you do it). I used an extra set of the rubber bung things that are on there from the factory, but failing that some nuts will do the trick (nut and bolt nuts, not peanuts! :lol:) Just make sure they're clamped in tight otherwise they'll vibrate and drive you nuts! Good luck - it's not an ideal setup, but short of removing all the skin on your knuckles and/or half the dashboard to run new speaker wiring, it's as good as you're gonna get with the standard setup :D

If you've got red-tinted indicators, put green bulbs in to make them flash green (seriously - Pug do it!) The wonders of subtractive colour mixing.

Yeah, most of the cars on there are hardly exciting or have much of a difference between them.

Vince did my wishbone bushes without the need to take the sump off, so it is possible... no idea how tho :?

Now that is a nice little project :) Not quite sure why he stripped all the sealant out of the wheel arches and got them re-sprayed tho...?

Son of a Beesting - yeah, it's at the heater box end and there are no markings on the cogs to say where they should go :lol: And the controls are expensive, but the heater box is even more so! It is possible to fix it, but you have to sit there moving the cogs about on the heater box while twiddling the knobs on the control panel (while it's in the dash) to see what combination of cog positions works :? I guess if someone has a working heater box out of their car, they could take a photo of it to show the cog positions...

Ah cool - I think I've seen this car at one of the meets I went to in Canada - it is very tidy indeed :D

I have the same problem - the dials are all good, the cables are all good, but the cogs have jumped a tooth or two on the main heater box. So if you take the control panel out, you can pull the cables to line the flaps up, but they're not all correctly aligned in relation to each other to work with the control panel. The only solution is dash-out and mess around with the cogs on the heater box :(

I was gonna say Steve - it's usually me talking crap :lol: I believe that got mine from GSF, but can't remember. I think all non-AC Corrados use the same heater box so the motor should be the right one.

I've got a 4yr-warranty Halfords one in mine, which does the job. Optima's are supposed to be the daddy, although I'm not sure exactly what colour top one to get. Haywire (cheesewire) had one for a while - they're up at the £150 mark I believe.

It's the RCAs sticking out the back that are causing issues with mine. I think I'll just bin the head unit and stick a PC in the car instead :lol:

So exactly at what point was it that you discovered that you were stupid? Putting 6 litres too much oil in the engine, throwing a match at a petrol-doused BBQ or putting the HT leads on the wrong way round? :lol:

Well you can get them in the states, so I guess there are some that'll have only ever seen the desert. But then, rust isn't the killer of Corrados as it is/was splitties - it's numpties bending them on things *ahem*

Pretty much all Mk1 Audi TTs have 312s, and I believe the Mk4 4Motion Golfs do too. If my wheels are OE, I'll eat my hat, but they are chunky 16's and the 312s do fit under them...just. http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/312mm_brakes has more info, although I'm told the list of cars isn't necessarily correct.

Every wheel has an ABS sensor on it - it's a 7cm or so ring with slots in it and a magnet that points at it. If that ring gets crud stuck in it, or corrodes too much or gets bent out of shape - you'll get the ABS light on. If you plug the car into VAG-COM then the car will tell you where it thinks the problem is and gives you a starting point to fix it :)

Bloody hell - he could have at least cleaned it first :lol: Lookin good Nick 8)

I've got the same problem with my Pioneer jobby. I did try cutting it off with a hand saw, but it's steel and was taking an eternity. If you've got some suitably long and curved pliers, you can probably bend it out of the way.

If you turn the ignition all the way on, you can hear it whirring. Plus I think it runs on after you stop the engine for 30 seconds or so if it's hot. CazzaVR - According to ETKA - 251 965 561 B "Additional water pump" is the part you want. No indication of how many lugs it's got on it tho :(

You also have to have them the right way up - if they're upside-down, they lock. I guess it's on the assumption that the car has rolled and you really shouldn't have slack in the seatbelt :lol:

Eeeeeeeeeeeeeexcellent :D

Yeah, but be careful what you ask for otherwise we'll end up with a stupid system like they've got in Germany where you can't modify anything what so ever!