dinkus

I shall PerMiscuate him now then :lol: 't was me wot asked if it was a Storm, but it's all just hearsay at the moment (no relation to the band).

The battery tray is kind of built into the wing, but is actually available as a separate part.

Someone from the convoy said they'd seen a Mk1 'rocco for sale in the Winchester area a few times...? Toad maybe?

All bonnets are interchangeable - but the early dipped bonnets don't fit the VR cos there's not enough clearance.

Volksbits as far as I know just sell cheap nasty chromed plastic tat.. :lol: GPC would be my only other thought, but either way I think you're looking at something horrifying like £700+ Then it'll still need painting too, so you've gotta be better off buying one off a breaker and getting it painted.

Yeah, the stealers sell them and they're not too expensive.

I do rather like the idea of running a 24v on Megasquirt or Emerald - will be very interesting to see how you get on :)

Yeah, but their website isn't hugely useful - give 'em a call and see what they'll do. Mention you've got a Corrado and he should sort you out :)

I get about 28mpg out of my VR, but long, sensible speed motorway journies will get you a bit more (maybe 32... :lol: ) The last VRs were made in '95, so N plate. A handful did get registered on a '96 P plate, but I think they were still made in '95.

I got mine from Audioscape for about £45 for a whacking great big sheet, but no idea what postage is like - it's not exactly light!

I've got the boot floor, under the rear seats and the doors done with 'Skinz' on mine and it does make a noticable difference to the amount of noise in the car. Don't expect to sound like a new Merc inside, but it is noticably quieter. It also stops the panels vibrating, which means you get more hefty bass out of whatever you current setup is :) I really want to do behind the rear door cards tho, cos there's a lot of road noise coming from back there that I'd like to get rid of...

I've got some as-new Infinity 5000cs's you can have for £40 + postage if you're interested...

If you go somewhere decent like RAC or Autowindscreens, they should have all the parts necessary - if not, then they'll be able to get hold of them...

Good stuff greeny :) Mine's stonechipped to hell - nothing major, but you get a lovely sparkling effect whenever it's in direct sunlight. Lovely. It might get damaged soon... If you do get it done - make sure you take the car to them and leave it with them all day. The screen is bonded in and needs time to set - if you move the car before it's fully set then you'll push the screen out of place and won't get a good seal on it.

I like the Z4s, particularly the coupé from the back...and the side...and you get to the front and go "oh god, it looks like a confused whale!!" :lol: Wouldn't say no to one as long as I could park it face-in to the wall at work tho :D

Orrr just accept that it's a cheap, crappy clock and don't rely on it too much :D

Howt to replace the bolster ;)

Oooh - that should give you a bit more balls to power that new sub. :norty: As far as mounting goes, I'd go for either: Bolt it to the back of the rear seat[/*:m:3caf8] Audioscape sub rack (not sure if they do one to fit that sub, but can ask - also not cheap)[/*:m:3caf8] Spare wheel well (but I think taking the spare wheel out greatly reduces your rear-impact protection)[/*:m:3caf8]

I've heard it was something like 300 sets - it certainly wasn't many and they do look the mutt's nuts 8)

Only if you stick a Shrick on it - it sounds noticably different without it. There's much more of a warble type noise to it when it's got a normal inlet or VSR. The funky inlet paths on the Shrick even it all out so it just sounds like any other old V6... which isn't an unpleasant sound by any means, but it does lose that VR character.

I was in a similar situation a few months ago and decided to go with a claims company recommended by my local bodyshop. They were very friendly, do everything for you, you don't pay a penny and you get a good hire car while the work's being done too. The bodyshop also said they get a better hourly rate from those guys, so they're more likely to do a couple of other bits cheap too ;) Problem was, the pikey bastid that drove into me gave me bogus insurance details and turns out wasn't insured at all :cry:

Nnng...must resist...temptation...to make comment...about teaching at Toni & Guy :lol: Seriously though - apart from their very ghey looks, the MX-5s are fantastic cars to drive. Andi used to have one before his Corrado - it was more than slightly modified and looked more like it was going to rip your hair out then spit it in your face than be driven by a hairdresser :lol:

http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/312mm_brakes :)

I spent quite a while playing with knobs after I put my sub in and found the following: You want the LPF on the sub to be high enough to get decent bass out of it, but low enough so you only get the thud thud thud bass out of it. If the LPF is set too high, you'll get boom boom boom and you'll be able to tell that the bass is coming from the boot - set it lower and you won't be able to tell. Also, make sure you crank the sub up high enough so that you're not thrashing the hell out of the components just to get enough bass. If you work the components too hard, they'll distort and get harsh. It's also useful if your head unit has a second set of pre-outs to use just for the sub. That way you can control the amount of thump you get independantly of the volume so you can match it for the right road noise and type of music. That obviously depends on what connections and wiring you've got available tho. Hope that helps :D

It's been asked on here quite a few times before and the suggestion of calling the DVLA always comes up. I think someone tried it once and they said they weren't allowed to release that kind of information, but god knows why. It might just have been that the person on the phone couldn't be naffed, so probably worth trying again.