BarberG60

That is the worst of the lacquer damage, not all wheels are as bad as this

16x9 and 16x8 BBS replicas with excellent Falken tyres

I have a set of 16" BBS style wheels in 5x100 fitment (also 5x112 I think)

The rears are 9" wide and the fronts are 8" wide.

Tyres are matching Falken tyres all round with very little wear having only covered around 1000 miles. The rears have a little scrubbing to the outer edge from the arch, but nothing to be really worried about. The wheels themselves are in good condition. A few kerb marks on the fronts, and some lacquer damage like most of these replicas suffer from, but they still look fantastic once fitted

Rear tyres are 215/40/16 and the fronts are 205/45/16.

Overall these look awesome when fitted, but have decided to change for the winter months and bad roads.

I'm based in south east Kent, but will happily courier.

Any questions, fire away.

I will get pics up as soon as I can take some. Unless I can use photobucket?

List Date: 10/15/2015

For more info, click here to view the original listing: 16x9 and 16x8 BBS replicas with excellent Falken tyres

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On Sale For: ?325.00

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Mobile friendly version: 16x9 and 16x8 BBS replicas with excellent Falken tyres

Damn, too slow.

What is the blank out of interest?

Damn, too slow.

What is the blank out of interest?

If you have, that would be fantastic. Thanks for replying

I'm after a complete engine loom for my 92 Corrado VR6 OBD1 . This has to be a distributor based VR6, unless a coilpack one can be used?

Thanks

All sorted now guys, thanks. New wanted ad posted though

As in the title guys, are all vr6 looms the same?

Both looms are from a Corrado, but one is a distributor obd1, the other is a coilpack obd1.

I need a new engine loom for my dizzy vr,but can only get a coilpack car loom.

Thanks

I am after a known working VR6 ISV

I'm in Kent, or would need to be posted.

Thanks

Yes, bypassed the isv and it seems to idle perfectly. I suspect it's the wiring at fault to be honest and that would explain why nothing happens when I disconnectedtut when the engine was running.

Whilst playing around today, and couple of observations.

When I disconnect the isv, no change in engine speed or tone so cleaned that out with no change.

I disconnected the hose from the rubber intake boot that runs to the isv and the engine obviously stalled. The strange thing is, if I plugged both ends of that breather pipe running from the inlet boot to the isv (with my fingers crudely) the idle speed was perfect.

Any ideas what this would indicate?

Very sound advice guys, thanks. However, there is no obd port fitted .The car is an early 92 VR6. There are two wires/connectors under the gearstick surround.

I appreciate it is not wise to adjust the throttle stop without checking it, but is there a visual way to see if it has been adjusted in the past incorrectly?

I can't find any air leaks, checked breather hoses etc.

I disconnected the isv and the idle stayed exactely the same, high at around 1300 rpm. Am I right in saying the engine should splitter and die when the isv is disconnected?

If your going to change the temp to ECU sender , which I think could be your problem , you may as well change all four of them . They should come with new 'o' rings and circlips .

Wove fitted a new genuine blue sensor which I thought was the temp to ecu one?

Looks like I'll be looking at checking some more sensors then.

I'll leave the idle screw alone, thanks for the advice

All sorted now guys, thanks for the offers. Much appreciated

I have changed the blue temp sensor for a new genuine part .Any other sensors I should look at?

I have checked for air leaks and can't seen to find any .I've even bought another airbox as the old one has been seriously butchered about .Sounds great though.

I've been told there is a screw to adjust the idle speed of my 92 Corrado VR6. I can't find it anywhere. I understand its on the throttle body.

Need to sort my idle issue out as its permanently idling at 1300 rpm.

Thanks

When I turn the ignition on on my 92 vr6, the relay numbered 67 (I assume fuel pump relay) constantly clicks

I am right in saying it shouldn't do this, and that it should be changed?

Could this be the cause of some hesitation I have at times when at low speed?

I'm after either a standard or lightly drilled vr6 airbox. The one fitted on my car has been gutted with almost nothing left.

I'd consider a decent brand cone filter too.

Let me know what you have lying around

Thanks

which co-part did this come from?

Good to see you are putting the effort into restoring her back to as new condition.

Despite my username, I now have a VR6

Couple of issues, firstly, I have noticed a breather pipe coming from the back of the inlet manifold by the throttle body. It has ben blanked off with a bolt. What is it for, and where should it go? When I removed the bolt, the engine revs drops and the splutters then dies

Secondly, and quite possibly related, when you start the car from cold, like most vr's, the revs are a little high. After driving for a few minutes, the idle stays high and idles at around 1200/1300 rpm. This does not change unless I switch the car off and start it up again, then it sometimes idles at the correct speed, or it will idle high again.

Sometimes, when in traffic, the car is quite jerky to take off, almost as if the throttle has a huge delay and then off you go. It pulls cleanly when driving along. Both the above issues are worse when the car is hot.

I was thinking about getting another genuine CTS and trying that. I canot find any air leaks anywhere

Thanks in advance

Hi. I have the two hoses from the heater matrix, and a good boost return pipe.

Have got a nice condition red bonnet. Paint is faded and knackered, but the bonnet itself is excellent.

Im in south east kent, but could courier if you wanted to organise it?

I'm sure that interior was in dubsports old bronze 4wd 20vt mk2 back in the day.

Those spoonfed spoilers are fantastic

Nice looking project mate