Rado87

What condition is the bonnet and front bumper mate? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I done exactly the same thing on my VR! I even messaged the seller on eBay saying they'd sent the wrong part! [emoji849] I soon swallowed my pride and proceeded to order the correct part. At least I have a master for future use! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Could be the little ends? Where the gudgeon pins fit through the top of the Conrod? Sounds like my transit when they went. Either way, not ideal! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's most annoying is the fact the engine can be completely quiet and then every now again the tappet noise returns for a few revolutions then goes again. To be honest it's just as loud when I return from a run as it is cold!? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just desperate to find something that will quieten down the ONE tappet that seems to be sticking! Drives me nuts! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is this EDT you speak of?? Does it quieten down tappets!!?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it were piston rings on the other hand I would think you'd have running issues due to low compression. And it would be smoking a lot! [emoji12] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What mileage is on her? I bought my VR off my uncle at 255000miles. He had a similar issue and it was diagnosed as the valve stem oil seals. He ran it without issue for years until the oil pressure dropped (due a to a worn oil pump drive shaft) but he didn't notice because the oil pressure warning system wasn't working properly! Which resulted in the chain tensioner failing and so on. Anyway, I guess what I'm trying to say is if you keep on top of regular maintenance and make sure you oil pressure warning systems are working ok then I would say it would be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So is that one on Ebay for £36 quid no good or not the right/whole thing? I need to do mine soon that's all, and I'm not spending £100+ if it's not necessary! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know much about these engine to be honest (strictly VR here!![emoji12]) but does the super charger have a coolant feed and return? I assume it has an oil feed? Just wondering if there's a problem there?? Those temps are bloody high! I can drive my VR hard and it doesn't go above 114 really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sure there's a Delphi pump on Ebay for £40 ish!!??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The exact same thing happened to mine and I done what you've done. I used a nylock and all is well. Just be a pain in the arse if the wishbone needs changing again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All seems fair enough to me. Late fog light is a very good price I reckon, like hens teeth now! I recently bought one for £70. What calipers are you planning on fitting, standard? I got some standard ones from Euro car parts for about £90 quid each with a £25 sur charge I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used new on my one after a rebuild. As annoying as it is not being able to crack on with it, I would be tempted to wait. I'm guessing you've been through a lot of work(timing chains??) would be a shame, if it were to go wrong, for the sake of a week?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are they a 10mm thread size and 16mm socket size?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can't remember mine having washers. The bolt heads were 19mm though not 17? I wonder if at some point a thinner bolt was used on yours to allow for more adjustment for the camber?? If so, pulling the top of the wheel right out to the stop might not be correct. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some spark plug sockets have a rubber insert in them that hugs the plug body. Spot on they are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't think you need to mate to be honest. I like to use copper grease on threads but didn't bother on my VRs plugs. I would say that if they don't easily turn in by hand with a long extension then use a tiny blob of copper grease rubbed into the threads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that's right mate. I've recently done mine. From memory I think you just loosen them off and pull the top of the wheel right out and that's where it needs to be. I used my iphones angle finder believe it or not to achieve a negative 1 camber!! Worked a treat! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So a thicker oil may sound feasible then, but how "thick" would anyone recommend ?? There must be a limit. Like I said, I'm using a 10w60 Mobil 1 at the moment-seems to help the noise compared to the 10w 40 I was using but still not as quiet as I would like either! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've recently rebuilt my engine and head but stupidly didn't do the lifters!! I used 10 40 helix too and have recently done an oil change with 10 60 Mobil 1 motorsport. It is marginally better but still has the lifter noise-more so when cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've had similar issues on previous cars ( not corrados) and it was the CV joints and meant I needed to fit new driveshafts. Having said that the noise was more of repetitive clunk as opposed to a grind. Like Delfinis said I would jack the car up and have a good look/check for play. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like it could be where the crack pipe enters the thermostat housing to me. I replaced my whole housing, seals bolts and all from VW themselves not too long ago. I initially used a set from Ebay but it leaked as the two mating surfaces weren't completely flat! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are troublesome systems aren't they! The only thing I feel I can contribute to this is there are two bleed nipples on the pump it's self that I didn't realise when I bled my system through for a fluid change. Maybe like you said there's a bit of air in the pump that needs a bit of extra bleeding?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk