Rado87

No such luck hisnibs! [emoji30] I was having trouble with fuse 19 and it turned out I had the connectors for the black temp sender and the inlet manifold temp sensors swapped and to be fair that seems to have sorted that one but now it's bloody fuse 13!! Arrgh! I think this is going to be a love hate relationship!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Philly R6. I have followed the cooling guide and done the fan checks etc and all seems ok. I'm having intermittent cutting out issues along with long cranking when hot and left for a while so was thinking of changing the blue temp sender and whilst I'm at it doing the yellow one too. Fuse definitely powers the aux water pump as I noticed it wasn't working and noticed fuse 13 was blown, changed it and it started working again. It seems to be fine whilst sat on the drive but when I go out for a drive I notice the horns stop working and the fuse has gone. I've unplugged the pump and the fuse still pops. I'm basically wondering if the after run sender (which I assume controls the pump after run) can go faulty and short out causing the fuse to blow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wondering if anyone has ever had trouble with their yellow temp sender on the VR? I'm thinking maybe it's the culprit for blowing fuse number 13 for the after run aux water pump? I also get fuse 19 pop occasionally. Is it likely to be the sender or the fan control module? I'm also having trouble with the car cutting out at junctions which is a tad annoying! Thinking about changing all 3 senders in the stat housing.

If the pipe for the servo was off then there's a good chance that was why it was misfiring/running rough. I would fix that and see how it goes before replacing the coil pack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you resolve this? Be good to know what it was.

Ah right, cheers fenderverg. I thought maybe there was a separate unit incorporating the buzzer behind the dash somewhere. I've made up a temporary test lamp connected in series with the low pressure switch which is on until the engine is started. I think I'll have to source another set of dash clocks though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Along with a rebuild that is!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love the vr6 lump personally, but seeing as you've got a golf with that engine how about a g60? Maybe quite hard to get hold of though. Also, i wonder if you could supercharge your 2.0? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just wondering where that is, behind the fuse box etc? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I've been looking at Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've fitted new genuine sensors and still no light. Removed the instrument cluster and swapped red LEDs about, nothing. I've studied the a2 electric chart and it mentions a oil pressure warning unit terminals G2 10 and G2 11?? Anyone no where this is? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, to hopefully conclude this matter, an auto electrician has found a broken wire in the lambda plug and the inlet manifold temp sensor was faulty! Had these fixed and hopefully all is well. As soon as get the emissions rechecked I'll update. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ordered new sensors from TPS today so I'll fit them this weekend. Want to go for a spin Sunday and want that oil light working!!

No, they weren't vw items mate. Maybe I should fit some then to rule that out. I've seen those gauges, there rare as hens teeth though aren't they!

I bought the sensors off eBay. I think though it is more likely to be a wiring fault as you say. That'll be my job later then, love a bit of electrical fault finding!

I'm also thinking of putting a capillary oil pressure gauge in. Has anyone here done that? Easy job? Best place for parts?

Hi all. I've posted relating to the oil light on my VR before, but it's giving me problems again! Basically, following the rebuild I noticed the oil wasn't coming on so I took the speedo clocks out and had a play with swapping LEDs about and I also swapped both senders for new ones, which cured it. BUT, now the damn thing won't come on and I'm s*****g myself! Don't really want to be rebuilding her again! What do people think, dodgy senders or faulty dash clocks? I'm leaning towards the clocks.

Might be a long shot but has the vac hose come off for the brake servo?

No worries mate. If I can be of any use, no matter how limited, I'm more than happy to help. The help and support I've had on hear has been brilliant. Anyway, I couldn't give you an honest answer on that one mate. I don't see why they should be different but you never know! What's the mileage on yours and how much oil are you needing to put it in it?

I'm fairly mechanically minded but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but yes, if the valves/seats are worn your compression will suffer. It stands to reason that if the valve isn't closing properly then any oil making its way into the cylinder will burn off. You tend to notice it from cold where oil seeps through over night and is burned off in the first few minutes of running.

It does seem a lot. There's a post on hear "vr6 compression test results" stating Bentley manual figures.

There's a thread on here that states 11-13 bar (175 psi)for a new engine and 7.5 (109 psi)lower limit

Have you got any leaks? Maybe round the back of the rocker cover out of site, burning off on the exhaust maybe? Also, my one used to burn a bit due worn valve seals. Refurb head has sorted that.

I may well have solved this issue of fuse 19 popping. It turns out I had the connectors for the black coolant temp sensor and the air intake temp sensor connected the wrong way round! All has been good since, fingers crossed......