Rado87

Thanks mate. Just been doing a bit more research and there seems to be a potential issue with the charcoal canister? Any thoughts? Maybe the fuel vapours are throwing the emissions haywire? People seem to remove them and vent them under the wing and block the pipe going to the manifold?

Yay! Spot on, cheers Dox. What day reckon to the results then? K and N to blame?

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Ha, same here! Ill have a go.....

Id love to Dox but I can't for the life of me work out how to do it! Its quite frustrating tbh! Anyway, results were as follows; CO % volume 7.107 HC ppm 498 Lambda 0.812

So, I've swapped the connections around on the air intake sensor and the black coolant sensor and also fitted a new air intake sensor, BUT emissions still high, all 3! My question is, does anyone think/experienced, a high flow k and n cone filter causing high emissions? I'm thinking maybe the extra air intake results in over fuelling, thus raising emissions? I've put the standard air box back on and it does seem to idle more smoothly and after a blast round the bypass definitely smells different, less rich and more Catalytic convertery! 😜 I've had live data done and all the sensors seem to be operating correctly.

Hopefully getting fault codes read/ deleted tomorrow before it goes in for re test! To be honest, the light comes on and goes back off so should be ok regarding that. Do you suspect I'll just be chasing faults around the car then until I've changed all the sensors!?

My corrado vr6 recently put its ABS light on so I checked the codes and near side front sensor was at fault. I've just changed it and the light now comes on and goes out as it should but comes on at 15 mph ish?? I did notice there was a slight buckle in the pick up ring on the near side front, would this be enough to throw a light on? Or is it a case of getting the code deleted?

Spot on. You were right then, bugger me! Hopefully that's all that was causing high emissions then!!?

All excellent info guys, thanks. Tigerfish- I think that may have been the issue. Just to confirm, what colour cables go to the black coolant temp sensor in the stat housing? Mine were blue and green but now I've swapped them over there black and yellow. The blue and green go to the inlet manifold temp sensor.

Cheers Dox. Looking like a coolant sensor then. Although, do you think the inlet manifold sensor could be the culprit seeing as that was the only fault code present? The stats brand new so hope it isn't that! If it is a coolant sensor, which one would you try first? In my head it would be the blue ECU one, giving the ECU false readings maybe?

Useful info fenderverg, thanks. With regards to changing the coolant temp sensor, is that the black one, the one in the rad or are all of them classed as coolant temp sensors?

So, the beast went for its MOT today after 3 years in the workshop and ****e load of money spent! Only to fail on emissions. Had the codes read and all that came back was inlet manifold temp sensor. Has anyone else ever had this?

Oh dear, sounds like a right mare! I've replaced the fuse and so far so good but the sod has failed it's MOT today! Emissions were sky high so payed a bloke to read the codes and inlet manifold temp sensors fooked! I just want to drive the bloody thing, after 3 years in the workshop!! O well, it'll get there. Best of luck with yours buddy.

Any joy with that fan control module hisnibs?

So, scanned the VR with VCDS Lite for ABS faults but couldn't communicate, yet found engine codes ok??

Cheers tigerfish, your offer is very much appreciated. The cars been off the road for over 3 years now and there's not much I haven't done, it's only come on since I've replaced all the brakes and bled them out! My father in law has got a basic version of VCDS but hasn't got an adapter. Might have to get on eBay!!

Evening all. Just wondering if anyone is near Calne in Wiltshire got VAGCOM with an adapter lead from obd2 to obd1? My 93 VR is in for MOT Monday and has popped an ABS light on!

Yea, thought it was a long shot! If you could update me/the post that would be sound. I may take the battery out and washer bottle as some of the fan wiring runs under them.

That tends to be my attitude to be honest. I changed the housing and stat, seals etc when I did the engine rebuild but never bothered with the sensors. The cars going in for MOT next week so maybe I should just replace all 3. I don't want it over heating on the MOT bay! Do you think a dodgy sensor could cause the fuse to blow?

The fuse on the FCM is fine. I have a problem where the car cuts out when slowing down, only when hot though, so wondering if coolant temp sensor is buggered? I think it's the black one on the stat housing. I also have a blue 2 pin and a yellow 4 pin. I was thinking of wiring a switch into the dash as a back up. What part number was your FCM hisnibs and how much was it? Mine 1HO 919 506.

Oh yea, it's a 1993 vr6. Which fuse is that mate? The big one on the left of the fan controller as you look at it?

Fuse no 19 keeps blowing meaning the fans don't run when the engine gets hot but when I turn it off they kick full chat! Any ideas anyone to give me a direction to head in!!

I used a febi kit that came complete with both bushes and bolts and nuts. I found them very good quality and good value at only 25ish. I also changed the pressure regulator for the rear brakes, got that of Ebay for 65 quid whereas VW wanted over 200!

It was a ball ache wompa, I won't lie! My mates workshop had a 12t press. We hung the axle in place with a ratchet strap, whilst making sure the opening in the axle was aligned properly. I then took a length of heavy steel tubing which I modified with an angle grinder to fit over the odd shape of the bush. I've got a few pics, I will try and get them up when I get to the laptop.