Yandards

Quality find! 'A crashed police car'

Heh nice one Kev, Top Gear the other night highlighted just what a superb piece of engineering that car is: 200-300kph in 9 secs - mental!

But its top trumps you salty seaman! :-P

Play top trumps here: Linky

Bugger :oops: (Not in the wiki though, even the thermal fuse replacement guide isnt in the wiki)

After arseing around with thermal fuses and bending bits of copper on the control panel I finally fixed my dodgy heater motor only blowing on 4 problem. New one on me, and I am fairly sure no-one else has mentioned it either. Despite all the heater control knobs having the same part number one of mine is slightly different. Two of them have cut-out on the back of the dial at 180 degrees apart from each other - these are for the flap selector lever and the temp control. The other one has an extra cut out that allows the copper tab that engages with the copper ring on the control panel to sit in, rather than pushing it away from the copper ring. Odds on if you have had your heater control panel out at some point you may not have put the dials back in their original places.

Finally fixed the heater only blows on 4! Turns out that despite all the heater control knobs having the same part number they are not all the same !? One of them has an extra cut-out so that it does not force the copper selector part of the dial away from the copper half ring on the control box. Refitted the door cards and now have a set of fully functional speakers again. Discovered some glass under the rear drivers bench seat, rear quarterlight has a different date code to the res tso it must have been put through at some time in its life.

Got a similar problem on my VR. I split the control box apart a few weeks ago to discover the shaft that the cog that selects the flaps etc to be sheared. Managed to glue it back on ok but I ordered the wrong cable, I needed a cable for control flap (RHD) part no: 536 819 831. I bought a defroster flap cable instead (Assumed that because the dial was stuck between windscreen and feet it was defroster one) part no 536 819 835. Got some movement between the windscreen and feet now but not going to force the dial as it is going to break again. If you watch how the selector levers move on the control box you will see that the defrost selector (top one) has a lot of travel on the selection from windscreen to feet - hence the reason that one moves ok. Cables are not too expensive £8.22 each and well worth doing I think.

Yeah, do a good few weeks in training on metal fatigue and corrosion. Any damage to the surface finish of a metal is a stress raiser and as such will likely be the place for a crack to propogate. I am not saying that the hub carriers will crack just that be removing the casting marks you will reduce the inherent stress in the material.

Loose bolts are not going to snap, bend maybe but not have the heads shear like that. I suppose it depends how they track the car and if they take the wheels off to do it - that would be my first question for them and go from there.

Sorry bad English, I know it's true just failed to communicate that sucessfully.

There is a good argument that grinding out casting marks etc reduces stress raisers and as such makes things less likely to fatigue crack. Not that is why you are doing it but anyway.. ;)

FFS, bloody Waitrose too, it's not like most people that shop there are not sure of a few bob. Any CCTV coverage of the car park Andy?

Was the resistor damaged Yan?? - you have to be fairly careful soldering these in to get the right connection... The other thing it could be is the contacts on the switch need cleaning / bending - try the pack out of the 16v Was a half decent soldering job, might have popped the thermal limit on the fuse and ruptured it though.. :roll: :oops: Will check the dial switch to see if the contacts need bending. Not too keen on robbing the motor from the valver but I suppose a diagnostic rob is in order to find out.

Working through my list of stuff to sort on the VR. Stripped out the door cards, gave them a really good bloody clean - people who smoke in cars dont half make a bloody mess!! Thanks for Nathan for the leather cleaning guide, really, really useful just got to do the stuff in the car now. Swapped the bogging in-pro rear lights back to OE. Adjusted the tumblers in the drivers door lock so I dont need two keys anymore. Stripped the mirror switch down and cleaned + reassembled it, KB article coming soon for that. Hopefully fixed the rattle on the drivers side window when it is up. Changed the thermal resistor on the heater motor but it still only blows on 4... Still a shed load to do, anyone got a OEM CD unit for a 93 VR hanging around? (Sony one would do)

Not likely as the VR ones are handed so double your costs for manufacture... Go for genuine VAG items where possible. They have lasted over 10 years by now and lots of miles so you do get a quality product as oppossed to some crap from ebay or GSF.

Change the whole wishbone assembly, you will the be able to do the whole job yourself as you will not need a hydraulic press to remove/fit the old bushes. As for the wear thing the car should be ok if it is just worn bushes. I would be more concerned about a splitting wishbone assembly. Get it done sooner rather than later, might as well do the ARB bushes whilst you are at it and I would cost up some new ARB droplinks to wishbone parts too as these tend to get a bit messy.

Er, might be in German but that acting is pants ;)

Damn, nice collection!! Even a 7 still badged as a Lotus.

Still waiting on mine from the website I ordered from on the first page of this post. Any update on if these are a noticeable improvement?

I did Craig as soon as we got back, car needed a clean anyway. Not sure where it was but it was out North from Inverness after heading over the bridge towards the Black Isles.

Heh, think you can apply that comment to all British sports cars of that era ;)

It's in the Knowledge Base, did it back in July 2005. Linkage : Rear Beam Nick only provides the food it is always up to 2cc and me to do the work. (Although my current home is a bit of a distance for the odd job)

No, that quantity of fluid is listed for the non-ABS models - didn't even look at the ABS section. The pipes themselves don't hold that much fluid but I suppose the ideal is that you flush the contaminates from the pipe too. The only way to ensure that is to stick 2 litres through the system, no harm is doing 3 as far as I am concerned (except for a sore leg!) I am away at Pretwick tomorrow to recover a bird strike so don't know I am due back but will look forward to the pics..

Not bad considering it was designed to be a trainer. Anyway we all know the only reason a Jag takes off is due to the curvature of the Earth ;)