Yandards

Standard tune on my storefront (just search for Yandards - it's the rado tune labelled up as CF Enduro IIRC) I will shove a poll onto the thread as well when I have finished typing this. Can anyone be bothered to design a CF logo in the Forza 3 painter? If someone could it would be nice to have the cars all race label stylie..

Buger. After a couple of weeks of odd things happening when starting the car it now won't start. I suspect the battery is dead but I also have a feeling the starter motor may be on the way out, oh well charge it and see what happens next...

VW on the springs is likely to just a manufacturers mark to indicate which manufacturer the springs fit. VW did not provide 'sports' suspension packages for the Corrado as it already came with suspension set-up for the car being a sports coupe. VW do also not prefix their part numbers with 'VW'. VW part numbers follow a standardised format of 037 907 385 with the addition of leter suffixes to indicate part number revisions. Hope that clears that up for you :)

8 good with me, I have a tune just need to upload it to my storefront (will do that tonight). Track wise the ring would be more fun for me... Leguna Seca is a bit poo and the corkscrew will result in some big incidents, if you want a shorter track Maple Valley is loads more fun.

2nded. Really I have been here before and went through 3 different set of springs and coilovers (good quality ones too) before I found a set I was happy with.

The boost return linkage is a butterfly valve that operates from open to closed when the throttle pedal is pressed (ie fully open when at idle and fully shut near to full throttle) If this linkage is broken/sticky then that would explain the 4k rev spike, there is no way that the revs should go up past 1250rpm with the idle M/S wire removed.

Damn that's high! Is your boost return linkage on the throttle body working?

Does not look like an auto throttle body (although the TPS will be on the underside) Wiring sequence is good although the idle M/S wire may not be making contact. Try removing the red wire with a blue stripe and see if the idle changes, it should. The other thing to check is that the ISV is buzzing/vibrating when you touch it, with the engine in the run position on the ignition key but not started you should be able to feel the ISV buzzing.

Golf 2 no. Passat B4 yes.

Just need to sort out a mic in the engine bay at the back somewhere and disable the sound from the camera no?[/quote:1m78dztx] Nah just shove some foam over the microphone hole in the case. I have 2 and ideally would like another one, that way I can mount the one at the front, one at the back near the exhaust and one looking out along the drivershaft towards the front suspension. You could then edit all those video sources to make a pretty cool video. For the cost these really are superb, £20 including an 8GB card for the level of quality can't be beaten.

Right, using my new £8 camera I took the car out again today to get some test footage and to give it a run around. Mounted the camera on the underside of the offside (drivers) towing eye cover using a combination of both blue tac and cable ties. If you loop a cable tie through each of the plastic cut-outs (with the towing eye cover lowered), click the towing eye cover back into place and then use a 3rd looped cable tie between the 2 you can rig up a nice tight mounting for the camera. I added the blue tac to prevent the camera sliding around but with the cable tie solution nice and tight it forces the camera up into the underside of the towing eye cover leaving it very firmly mounted. Video is about 35 mins long and varies from around town driving to back roads, should give you a good idea of what the camera is capable of. The image had to be flipped as I needed to mount it upside down so I could get to the buttons. The roads are pretty bumpy and I think the camera does an excellent job,, especially for the money. The microphone appears to have 2 levels, you can hear it switching when the wind noise is too high. I plan to stick some foam over the microphone to reduce the wind noise and I suspect a small hole (2 mm max) drilled in the towing eye cover would allow you to mount the camera inside the towing eye, should be a very tidy install and keep it pretty dry in there. Also on the hit list is trying to get some footage of the suspension in action, front end from the engine looking out should look pretty cool. As you utoobe only lets me have 10 mins of video a time this is in 4 parts.. [youtube:2hgmd4wd]PlEy6NZJQYw[/youtube:2hgmd4wd] [youtube:2hgmd4wd]cu_ITJyiK-I[/youtube:2hgmd4wd] [youtube:2hgmd4wd]IlBAgAHOR2I[/youtube:2hgmd4wd] [youtube:2hgmd4wd]V30X3dxaFaw[/youtube:2hgmd4wd]

Had a look at a basic setup with a PI of 425, only thing you can adjust is the tyre pressures and I can host the locked set-up on my storefront. Its basically the highest level of non-adjustable mods you can fit to a car with all the handling ones maxed before tweaking the engine to get up to 425. 4 wheel drive conversion of course and a NA VR6 lump IIRC.

Got some footage, just sorting out some hosting etc, will update it in my thread for the car, here

Got my pair today, weather is pants so no test today but if drys up tomorrow I need to take the 16vG60 out for a few more miles at some point.

Sounds like you have the WOT and IDLE microswitches wired in round the wrong way. Idle MS is at position/pin 1 on the plug on the TB, should be a red wire with a blue stripe. WOT MS is at position/pin 3 on the plug on the TB, should be a blue wire with a black stripe. Earth is at poition/pin 2 on the plug on the TB, should be a green wire. As for a new plug to fit, you will need terminals, sealing boot and a plug. The plug is part number 443 906 233. A set of repair wires complete with crimps is 000 979 021 E. The sealing boot is 191 906 102. Should be no more than £25 inc VAT for that lot from VW.

Yes and your alternator wont charge your battery either.

:lol:

It will be the far harsher winter rather than stone damage. The flexis are always made of a rubber composite and as they wear some moisture gets trapped into the flexi, given the sustained cold spell this year it is likely that the water in the flexis froze causing the damage.

What about a standard tune for everyone? Make sure all the mods added dont let you adjust anything except tyre pressures either. Should be easy enough to hit 425 with that restriction.

Do you have the service stamp book? If so the boot sticker is in there.

Indeedy it was/is. Having been lucky enough to go out in both yours and John's I have a rough idea of what it should be feel like; mental. I am waiting on the ECU from Australia and given no furthur volcanic ash it should be with me early next month. The plan is to fit the ECU, complete the run-in and tune from there. I can use all the existing sensor inputs and I only need to replace the throttle body for an auto one (which I am attempting to source) and buy a MAP sensor. I don't need to use a wideband to start with but intend to fit one from the off as it will help with the fuelling. I can then get the engine up and running on managment that I can adjust and tweak myself with the longer term plan being to fit both a cam and crank position sensor set-up over the winter to refine the setup furthur. So I hope it will be basically be a Digi sensor setup with a throttle pot and wideband, I also intend to just unpin the various parts of the ECU loom plug as required and feed them straight into my new ECU loom plug. That's the plan anyway....... :D

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I know it will get better with more miles and I have only had the revs to just over 50% of max so there is more to come for sure. I think it comes down to the amount of work put into it and the time to get what initially feels like a very disappointing result. This just highlights how vital a good ECU map is when it comes to serious modification.

Does that mean I could replace the spoiler "little black box" on my VR with 93 16v one and have it raise at 45mph ? Yes you can. V-Dubstar you must have a non VR spoiler control unit then. I have a German 72mph one sat on my desk gathering dust, keep meaning to fit it to try it out but on a private road obviously..

They are all automatic with a manual raise/lower switch. However if you manually lower the spoiler at speeds above the auto raise level it just comes back up again. All cars except the VR raise at 45 mph in the UK (IIRC) and VRs is 56 mph. They spoilers were designed to work at 72 mph (German/Euro spoiler control units operate at this speed) although the spoiler does have a substantial effect on rear end lift, even at 45 mph.

John, PMSL.