Yandards

No they won't. The rocco is a lot lighter for starters (lighter than a mk 2 Golf) and the roccos used the inner wing/bulkhead of a mk 1 Golf.

All plumbing is now back together post radiator change, started first turn of the key, idles nicely and no leaks so it's all good. New radiator is making a huge difference, took ages to the coolant fan to kick in, although it was all working as expected when it did finally hit the magic temperature. Got most of the slam panel refitted and it has a grille and a set of lights in it for the first time in a few years. Aim tomorrow is get up early and watch the F1 then crack on with the front end rebuild. Made a short video.. [youtube:10zcv1kg]ALJWicBTcmw[/youtube:10zcv1kg]

American spec relay panel, try this one for UK/Euro models..

Regardless of model you should have a relay in position 5. If you have not got one then it should be the one with number 42 on the back of it and correspond to the part number listed above. Not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but you are aware that it is a 12 socket relay board ?

Little update: VR6 radiator is too wide and fouls on the alternator casing so that's no good. Luckily I have a new genuine G60 radiator spare so that has been going on today until rain has stopped play (yes it's in a garage but I have put the car with the engine at the door end so I could work with more room and the garage door open) Just need to plumb the bottom hose back in, refit the PAS pump bracket that cover the thermostat area and then refil with fluids. I am aiming to get the front end back on tomorrow if the weather is ok and hopefully get the last bit of the wiring loom tidied up. Then it's make a couple of right angled brackets for the oil catch tank and oil cooler, refit the arch liners and that's about it for now until an MOT.

That's more likely to be the X contact relief relay sticking. It's in position 4 on the relay board and IIRC unloads all the heavy consumers (like heaters and wipers) when the car is starting.

Yeah the voltage regulator is just a 'damper' and if it was blown/faulty your fuel gauge would go nuts too. To be honest it's a bloody stupid system, why the coolant warning lights needs to be wired into the same cable as the signal from the coolant temp sender just seems like trouble to me. Oh well should be a cheap fix for folks and it's an easy one too..

now you mention that! couple of years ago I asked you about a random light flashing thing and you just went :shrug: :lol: Yeah sorry, just had another one of these questions crop up on another Corrado site, took me about 40 mins to trace the wiring and cross check the relay locations though! As for checking the relay, if you remove it you can check the wiring for continuity to ensure it's not a wiring snag, from socket 2 in position 5 on the relay/fuse box to the sensor at pin 2 on the plug (wiring colours vary by model and year so I am not listing it) should give you continuity (resistance check on a multimeter). From the relay plate at socket 3 you need to do the same but to the plug on the back of the instrument cluster this will either be pin 23 or pin 2 depending on when your car was built. Looking at various versions of the clocks (the earlier Corrado wiring diagrams are much more detailed) the relay is on a timer, once ignition is in the run position the relay has 5 seconds where it allows current flow to ground, effectively shorting out the coolant warning circuit, to give you the 'test' warning. If the relay is broken/stuck then it remains in the initial test position providing a constant flashing light. Interestingly both the coolant warning light and the coolant gauge indication are using the same signal wire (regardless of clock variations) I am guessing the voltage stabilser compensates for the voltage spike that must come from the coolant shortage indication.. As for a new one, part number 191 919 376 A around £20.

It's not Haywire, it would be more of a blur going around a corner..

Check the relay at position 5 on the relay board, it controls the coolant flashing light.

It's not going to be the WUR (warm up regulator) as this would only effect cold starting and running phases. First thing to do would be to get the mixture set-up correctly, as it's the same engine as a Mk 2 Golf 16v you can get a Haynes manual to tell you how to adjust the CO and the idle to the correct settings. The K-Jet ignition system does degrade over time and requires tuning to get the best from it, hopefully a quick mixture and idle adjustment should sort it out. As for the blue smoke, that is more than likely your valve stem oil seals are on the way out, once it's sorted have a look and see if it dumps blue smoke on hard acceleration and the over-run.

Turns out they have done my road... There is definitely a Corrado in this picture.... ...it's just in the garage! :roll:

There is a huge list of sensor check procedures in the workshop manual and there are 4 videos produced by VW to aid in K-Jet understanding, fault finding etc. Only snag with that is you need a VW workshop manual for the electrical operation of the KR engine and a VAG 1598 electrical break out box along with the correct matched lead... So in an effort to do some remote diagnosis, can you answer the following questions.. Does it just run rough and rich during the warm up phase (cold engine) or is it only when hot? Does it start promptly after turning the ignition key? Has this problem just started or has the problem been getting worse over time? Have you done any work to the engine area recently? Is the engine hunting when idling? Does it feel down on power when driving? If you can answer those questions then folks on here can give you some pointers for the right places to start checking. Oh and there are some plugs under the gearstick gaiter even on non-ABS cars but they were only used for factory set-up.

In a word bugger. Glad you got out ok and hopefully the insurance claim won't be an uphill struggle.

Does not look too bad, should be able to get a decent body shop to knock most of that out.

Lot of use that is.. :D Best you get remembering then!

Toady, that's burger not bugger..

FOAM membrane ?? Surely foam isn't resistant to water getting through ?? I have acquired some polythene to make replacement membranes with, now just after the mastic stuff to stick it on with, One of my doors had had double-sided tape on from a previous body-repairshop - and it was a nightmare to clean off to get a good surface to start again with.[/quote:tnl53ql9] Nope it's not just foam.. The mk 3 Goofs onwards use the same stuff, it has some sound absorbtion properties and is the dense kind of foam so it is waterproof. I think they switched over as they can mold the foam to fit around speakers etc from the factory rather than have to get the polythene sheet modified to suit, ie it's cheaper.. Right just checked the various books etc and the answer is you use both double sided tape (AKL 434 019 25 around £17 a roll) and a butyl adhesive when fitting the door membrane (Now foam 3A0 867 201H, 1100x600x2mm about £10 a sheet). The double sided tape is used along the full length of the top of the door with some strips above and behind the speaker area and just above where the top of the door storage tray sits. The butyl adhesive (AKL 450 005 05 around £20 a tube) goes in a pre-formed grove around the door. Finally when changing the door membrane ensure all old adhesive and sealant is removed prior to changing the membrane or you could get water leaks. This is all info from the general body repair manual for the Corrado cross checked with ETKA and is correct.

Holy thread resurection! Been watching some of the old American Hotrod on Quest too, some quality work gets done although it seems like a lot of effort some times. Some of you will be sad to hear the Boyd died a couple of years ago, complications from surgery, the only thing left trading is the wheel company.

Give A Plan a ring mate, although the nearly 30 bit won't be helping at all..

Or go into Halfords and get them to order you in a set of Bosch leads..

Sounds like the ISV to me, it should buzz with the ignition on but the engine not running, if you put your hand on it and it's not virbating then it's busted or the wiring is shot.

PMSL

My G60 is with A plan who are using a Royal Sun Alliance policy. The real problem I had this time was listing the boost hoses change to metal instead of plastic, most insurers will quote for a stainless exhaust and a drop of 40mm with no massive change in premium but as soon as you mention engine mods they go nuts. I am currently on a 200 bhp capped policy with any mods. The other option is try classic insurance, this only really works if the car is not your daily and is over 15/20 years old.. Managed to get the 16vG60 quoted as £420 fully comp with £250 excess with A plan too, 250 bhp max policy so it might be worth giving them a ring, my area is cheap as chips to insure in but my job moves the premium up.

That Zinc coating looks fantastic, where did you get it done?