Yandards

Got the self study guide for the 1.4 twin charger, worth a read as most of the ECU side should be adaptable to suit a larger displacment... Drop me a PM with your email if you want it.

You two sound like a right pair of :camp: :)

Dull, dull race. Hopefully it's just a case of the teams getting to understand tyre wear with the higher fuel loads but it was really boring.

i was wondering where you got too! If your about tonight or sunday then we could give it aother go. Dinkus has already agreed to the first banner in the above post as a good picy.. but it would be good to get as many ppl in as possible :D Sunday is better for me, will fire a PM for all the people who raced so we can get some pics.

Best way, the old corrosion needs removing entirely or it just comes back, grind it out, treat the bare metal with a paintable corrsion inhibitor, acid etch or Zinga primer and then go on up from there. As for waxoil etc, it does work as it also contains a corrosion inhibitor/killer and this prevents furthur spread. Well worth using on the underbody of the car and areas like the subframe as an added layer of protection. It is also worth refreshing the areas behind the panels as no doubt the original stuff is gone now, rear quarters and the boot cavities are the worst spots. Best way to use waxoil is to mix it 50/50 with white spirit to thin it out and then stick it in a bucket of hot water prior to use to get it to flow properly.

Nice one Baz, just watch the daily eat the funds for the non-daily though..

Very good tool, highly recommended

Ah Devizes, always hated driving through there! Not on street view up here but you can clearly see my Nugget on multimap here

Nice work and I am back from my unscheduled Egyptian holiday (the Sheraton at Sharm El Sheik is very nice as is the snorkelling..) There is a way to cap higher resolution pics by zooming in but the cars will need to be stationary to do it, you can then stitch them together but be aware of the FM 3 watermark. Would be good to get all 8 cars in the shoot and the line around the Carousel is a nice image as it is long and thin.

Damn that is nice, much better than most of the other concepts. Shame it's only ever going to be a picture :(

The only real problem with body panels is early parts, you just can't get them and it is very unlikely they will do another panel run of them. But as Kev says, there are a lot of bits out there cheap right now and with a little creativity even things like seat bolsters can be made by some companies for not huge sums (it is just some shaped foam after all).

I think they do watching some of the prices over the years. Although wing mirror glass has always been expensive and thankfully is used on other models so they will keep making them for now.

Nope I did check the Self Study guide before quoting that figure, it is 60 degrees. I don't a G60 aircon radiator and I did it would go on the G60 :) As for the alt, it is charging ok, I checked the output a couple of days ok and it's doing what it is supposed to. As for the blue wire, some assumptions there Steve, I do still have one but it is now connected to a 2 pin alternator (dash warning light is working as advertised). However, the sat nav unit in the car which always gave me a good accurate reading prior to the engine swap in volts is now a bit under, so the only thing it can be is bad earths causing too much resistance in the wiring loom - not a massive headache as there are only a couple of place to look at!

James, I don't think an obsolete thread is worth it for 2 reasons. 1st, the amount of times someone pops up on here saying, this is obsolete or that is obsolete when the part isn't is too frequent for any level of reliability. This is mostly down to a lack of understanding of the Corrado at the dealership, it's easier to say it's obsolete than spend hours trawling through ETKA for a 50p part. 2nd, The more frequently that we as Corrado owners order parts from the dealers the more likely it is that when the part stocks have been exhausted a new batch will be manufactured. Rear number plate plinths area good example, you could not get any for ages and it looked like they had been dropped, then thanks to the demand VW made a new batch.

Digifant values for a warm engine are 60 deg C of water temp so even with a VR radiator it won't be a problem and the water thermostat should be opening and closing to compensate too. Need to run the earth strap from the back of the cylinder head to the coil, I suspect this is what is throwing my in car Volts reading off; if not then it's time to look at the other earth points and see which one is playing up as the alternator is working just fine.

No use coming on here and asking a question like that :) Get one..

Yes. Everytime I get some updates to a popular VW parts catalogue I always have a flick through the Corrado stuff, there has been a huge amount of 'dropped' parts over the last 2 years as the 15 year parts support policy is kicking in. We are now just using up whatever VW has left on the shelf and as such I have been parts hording certain items for a number of years. I think mechanically that as long as the parts we use are common to Golfs etc then we will be ok but Corrado specific trims etc will be impossible to get hold of. I also think body panels are going to be a right royal pain in the bum to source in future too - they just did not make enough to make it worthwhile for companies to produce pattern items.

Heh, it would be the 1st G60 in history that suffers from overcooling! Although I didn't go for the G60 A/C radiator, it won't fit with the boost pipework where it is, at 675mm core size it is huge. It should be ok, the oil cooler is on a thermostat and I have left the factory thermostat in the water pump and it's not suppost to open until 87 deg C to let water into the radiator. Still waiting on my new VR radiator arriving, hopefully it will pitch up today and I get the prep work done it (cooling fans and brackets fitted etc) then depending on the weather it will out tomorrow and swap the radiator over and change the oil etc whilst I am making big puddles.

Nice one Joe, some good news after all the hassle of late for you.

Ah the media, got to hate them. It's all a by-product of this 24 hour news culture that we live in; rolling from one crisis to another.

Easy enough to change the cable, although getting the grommet to sit in the scuttle bulkhead can be a pain. All cables still available and it is job that is worth doing, pedal difference is huge. All the newer Golfs etc are drive by wire so there is no cable to provide resistance, in fact the Mk IV R32s used to have the throttle programmed in a difference way, you get about 50% opening for a 1/4 throttle....

N 908 159 03 lock washer about 30p Tell you parts guy to look at illustration 122-00 for Corrado.

The are supposed to be unattached. The connectors are for a diagnostic function but only from the factory. Not sure what the thing with the blue wire is but I am guessing it is an alarm part.

Yes you do need a circlip. The cables etc are supposed to be there but attached to the plastic bracket at the front of the gear lever housing.

There is an element of 'feel' in how tight to do these. I am not sure about 288mm brake calipers but the 280 and 256mm ones have a nipple to ensure positive locking and once that's hit home in the caliper it only needs a 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn max. As the 288mm sound like the sealing point for the banjo bolt is achieved through copper washers then I would offer the same advice, do them up until it goes a little tight (I am talking about that first grab of tightness when the assembly is all held nice and tight) and then stick an 1/8th on it. If it leaks when bleeding then consider another 1/8th.