Yandards

Dude, we quit out of the 1st race when we saw you come online so you could join in! Yan sent you an invite and you disappeared again! We waited around after that for a few minutes but had to start eventually!! Shame! your kidding me!? i waited for about 5 mins checking everyones status but in everyones it said in race so i left. gutted!!! :( Yep, I sent you 2 game invites before your status changed as well. :shrug:

Or not as ABS does not work below 15mph anyway. It will be the traction control/EDL system kicking in, you never normally use/notice it as it does not work above 15mph but that is what is kicking in and out with acceleration wheelspin. Should be some more information in the owners handbook.

Yarp

Just checked the reply, monster crash was caused by... Alex :D

Unfortunately this is where an Easy Bleed kit fails, for a fluid change you should be putting 500ml out per corner which will go through a few wheels using an easy bleed. You could try connecting an electric air pump to the wheel you are using for the easy bleed as it should keep 30+ PSI in the wheel. There is nothing in the VW workshop manual that states you need to have the ignition on when bleeding ABS, there was only ever one type of ABS fitted to RHD cars but just to see if this works here is the procedure for bleeding the other type of ABS system (it wont hurt to try!) 1. Switch on ignition (running engine) 2. Switch off igntion (fully off) 3. Depress brake pedal 20 times to eliminate pressure in accumulator 4. Connect bleeding appliance to brake fluid reservoir and turn 'on' 5. Fit bleeding hose to front left brake caliper 6. Press brake pedal slowly until fluid flows free of bubbles 7. Bleed front right caliper as described in steps 5 & 6 8. Disconnect bleeding appliance 9. Switch on ignition (running engine) 10. Switch off ignition 11. Connect bleeding hose to rear right caliper 12. Depress brake pedal 20 times to eliminate pressure in accumulator 13. Depress brake pedal and hold 14. Switch on ignition and open bleed nipple of rear right caliper 15. Whilst bleeding press rear brake pressure regulator operating lever towards front of vehicle 16. Continue until fluid is free of bubbles 17. Connect bleeding hose to left rear caliper 18. Repeat steps 9, 10, 12-16 19. Switch off ignition 20. Switch on ignition until ABS pump is no longer running 21. Top up brake fluid reservoir to max mark Do not run the ABS pump for longer than 120 secs, allow a 10 minute cool down if this occurs. Seems like you need 6 pairs of hands for this job though!

Yep go with an 20:00 kick off, Le Mans Bugatti track tonight.

After bleeding the master cylinder obviously... Interested to hear the results of this when you are done, I guess you are going for the 2 bar(30 PSI) option ?

You can put the ECU into final control element diagnosis mode using VAG-COM, this allows you test that all the injectors and the ISV is working within limits. It will be under the engine option on VAG-COM, select Final control diagnosis box and it should run through the fuel injectors 1-6 and then onto the ISV, you should be able to feel the ISV buzzing if it's working correctly.

Not completely untapped :) It's a cost vs age thing and nearly every single type made goes through the same cycle, even just rebushing the suspension and changing the springs and dampers for something half decent without using VAG bits is going to set you back £500 in spares. When the car costs that much to start with it's just not good sense to spend that sort of money unless you plan to keep it for a long time. Couple that with a lack of parts availability, especially interior trim and early panels, the dreaded corrosion (rust) starting to take hold of a few cars and it's no longer a good car to pick up for most people.

If you have xylophone tyres then it will be worth swaping them around to see if it improves.

Would getting a fat one to sit in the boot do, or stickin some tools in?? what weight equates to full load?? :) It would help but it is easy enough to cable tie or clamp the pressure regulator operating lever against the rear beam.

I would look at tyre wear first, if you have been running around with a bad set-up or even one with a lot of wear it will cause uneven tyre wear which may manifest as pulling under braking. It could also be a sticky piston on the brakes, I assume the problem is not there below 50mph?

Even when bleeding with the wheels on the floor? Yes, I guess this procedure is suppost to be done on a ramp so the wheels would be in the 'road' position. A bar is 14.9 PSI (near as damn it) so you will need 30 PSI to get 2 bar, if you only used 20 then you can't rule out that it needs more pressure to ensure a good pedal. The rear brake bias valve is adjustable as per the mk 2 Goof, although the procedure for ensuring it is set correctly is pretty long winded in the book. I cannot endorse clamping of brake flexi hoses in anyway, it might get done a lot in garages but as soon as you compress the hose you damage the braiding and the walls of the flexi.

Bleeding procedure for ABS cars using a vacuum operated(RHD) form of ABS as opposed to the hydraulic pump operated ABS. First of all the bleeding procedure uses VAG tool VW 1238/1 or VAG 1238/B, both of which no longer exist as available equipment direct from VW and appear to have been superseeded by tool VAS 5234. VAS 5234 is a brake fluid changer/filler and works at either 1 or 2 bar. My guess would be that the VAS 5234 simply superseeds the original kit which was probably designed as an ABS bleeding system and a separate non-ABS system; the single VAS 5234 now does both. As we should all have the ABS system with the main ABS unit located above the gearbox then bleeding is the same as a non-ABS car, aside from the fact that you need to bleed the master cylinder first then it's rear right, rear left, front right and finally front left. Note: When bleeding the rear brakes ensure the brake pressure regulator lever is depressed in the direction of the rear axle I would not try to bleed an ABS car without using at least an easi-bleed as it's just too difficult to ensure that you have pumped hard enough on the pedal. I would also try the easi-bleed at 1 bar pressure first to see how it is, if it's no better then jump up to 2 bar, stops you blowing any seals if the system is only designed for 1 bar (although this is unlikely). As per usual this is all straight from the VW workshop manual, although the master cylinder instruction is hidden right at the start of the ABS section in the general notes and warnings.

Yarp.

Indeed and I completely agree, I suspect a Paxo or similar would have resulted in this post not even being made today, very sobering indeed.

Kev do it and feck the AV rack chi :camp: I have a couple of mates who are die hard Sony PS fans and they have both been out and bought an xbox just for Forza 3. As for the physics side, they model tyre grip to a very high standard, the previous Forza was the first game to actually attempt to model the effect of rubber on the road and Bridgestone were approached and helped with the process. The current version models contact patch, lateral loads, sidewall deflection to name a few. You can spend a lot of time tuning, the sheer range of options availabe in just the set-up menu can make a huge difference to handling and performance. Then when you start diving into the parts upgrade arena it just gets crazy, running gear and engine transplants, chucking a cam in the engine moves the redline up, you can tune up an N/A car with a nice flat torque curve or a twin turbo monster that just delivers all its torque above 2.5k. Shame you can't actually modfiy the engine maps... As for set-ups... 1st upgrade is always a gearbox with an adjustable final drive, this way you can lower the final drive to get more acceleration and make the best use of the available power. In terms of the CF race league with a PI cap of 400 it appears the power is king, a car with just raw handling mods is not fast enoguh to beat Junkie and his quad turbo monster.

Canned it tonight, no point racing if most people can't make it. All resuming in January then!

21:00 tonight as Top Gear is at 20:00.. Either that or we take 3 weeks off for Chrimbo, will discuss it in the lobby before we start.

wow, nice. How much did they set you back?? Er quite a bit, but then they came with this. I did pre-order so it was a bit cheaper but it was still about the same as a pair of xbox elites..

I have a clutch pedal on a set of these but it's still not easy! Might finally be worth trying out a front wheel drive setup though..

here here! i picked up one a few days ago and its great fun but very difficult. It doesn't help that i dont have a table big enough to accommodate the steering wheel and my knees at the same time though, i have to plonk it on my lap. Still great fun thou :D I keep nicking the table out of the kitchen for now, it is a little high but sturdy enough, going to order one of these in the new year, it fits the MS wheel to so could be a good option. The biggest issue I have now is gear changes, trying to use the clutch option with a manual box is much harder and even using the flappy paddles with the clutch is much harder as the gear change seems to take longer than just pushing a button on the gamepad. It is easier to be smooth with the wheel and I am finding I can 'feel' back end drift much more easily but it is also harder to correct for drifts as dialling in full lock on a wheel for 900 degrees from lock to lock is much more involving than just flicking the joystick.

It could be an ice guard, it is clearly OEM kit with the OBEN stamped on it. Ah, quick bit of research and i have found it, it's a flame guard! Part number 049 133 360 fitted to Mk 2 Golfs on the PL type engine(USA export market), I guess it must be something to do with the way emissions kit works in the US, the fuel probably gets dumped back into the intake.

Last race before the 2 week break. Got my wheel the other day but it makes it harder to drive until I get used to it!

You have H3 and H4... They refer to the shape. One is main beam, the other is dipped beam/main beam Oh, and I'd be interested in seeing the prices of the LED units, Yan. :) Your wish is my command (in this case) Sidelight LED here £4.98 each Rear brake/light LED unit here £16.25 for the pair Dash clock LED (the ones on the back of the clocks only)here £3.99 each They also do some 382 type LED units, suitable for front and rear indicators and the reversing light here £6.84 each