Cressa
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Everything posted by Cressa
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They are around and Vag, used on lots and lots of cars. Essentially it is an electrical switch controlling the vacuum from passing through https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201826625041 Slightly different but does the job. And would only need the electrical plug changing
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Rubbish picture of the solenoid valve!
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Nearly..... at 4k rpm the signal is sent from the ecu to the rpm switch box/ Schrick controller, then to the solenoid valve ( black skinny thing with 2 wires and 2 pipes at). This solenoid is what moves from Normally closed to Open at your setting, normally 4k. This unit allows the vacuum through to the vacuum operated actuator which is on the manifold and connected via a rod. This in turn then opens the flap . The bottle reservoir to me is a piece of magic but has no electrical connections, just vacuum lines in and out. Connects from the vac take off point to the reservoir, to the solenoid valve then to the actuator..... Clear as mud, unless you just fitted it yesterday ð and boy have I spent hours researching and thinking of this. Now I feel that I could fit 10 a day after stressing over doing this ðĪĢðĪĢ
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ð If you get a pic with a tape measure next to it that would be great. Blue tac sounds a good idea as I was thinking of some thin sponge with water based paint on it. As i have had this over a year, there is no rush ð
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Update, the Jegs unit is a fantastic digital piece of kit. Works perfectly for negative switching of the solenoid valve for the Schrick. Easily programmed for 6cyl - 4000rpm - NC valve. Wired into the ECU wiring easy enough and I've put mine in a weatherproof box wedged in next to the ECU. Only downside seems to be that if you want one it has to come from the USA. Well worth the wait as the Schrick switching unit is well and truly obsolete and the Jegs is cheaper than MSD. Thread finished for me, but this may just help someone else one day ð
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Had a few hours to test and see if all of the components for the Schrick manifold would work. When purchased it had a different rpm controller to the standard Schrick one. I did speak to Stealth who suggested getting an MSD unit but thought I would try and find out more on the one I had. Turns out it is a JEGS RPM digital controller and I found some instructions online too. Sh#t myself worrying about wiring it up just to see if it worked, but it did. After some confidence boosting pics from easypops I have wired into the ECU and everything else. This rpm switch allows you to easily adjust its switch point and is extremely helpful bring digital and displays the car rpm that it links to. So a huge thanks to Martin for his help. I wasnt sure if any of the ancillaries would work but I plumbed it in and gave it a try. Placing the schrick manifold upside down on my engine I connected the vac line to it and started the car. Huge relief that it started as normal and the rpm controller was matching my tick over.. Increasing the revs it displays on the rpm controller and as soon as it hit 4k that I programmed it to the flap opened, result. Next 20 mins spent doing the same over and over again ðĪĢðĪĢ open,close..open, close. The manifold cant be fitted until I swap the front engine mount for a vibratechnics one and maybe look at the other 2. And a cut to the bonnet i believe ðē Another problem I had was trying to keep it all OEM looking and all the aircon relays being where most people put the vacuum reservoir. See what you think The big positive for me is that it all works
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So mine were a bargain ð I don't mind as they go to a forum members home. But if he doesn't come next week I may have to cash in ð°ð°ð°ðĪĢðĪĢ
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Too poor ðĪĢðĪĢ I'm not surprised since buying those audioscope pods ðĪŠ
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I've seen Shaun's upgrade of the fans, like a bloody jet engine. Must add an extra 30hp pulling the car forward by sucking the air In. Warning...Never stand in front of a Corrado that has those fitted ðĪĢ
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I will second that ðHappy new yearðĨ
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Front end off again ð Noooo
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Just measured Hella one. The core is approximately 34mm
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Damn. I dont see how there is any space without taking the front end off.
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I think I have nearly finished the write up. I shall add the part numbers tomorrow, so thanks for those. I think I need to add the wheel bolt torque too, but let me know your thoughts on it ð
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Provisionally sold via a PM...
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Dox, I bow to your knowledge, cheers ðð
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Please see pics. I have just removed the 280mm brake set up off my 95 Corrado. Nothing wrong with it, worked absolutely fine, I just changed for a bigger set up. I had refurbed the calipers with new pistons and seals b4 fitting. The car has only done 700 miles since fitting. The sliding pins work fine and were lubricated, the boots were replaced. Braided hoses were purchased off a guy on Ebay that builds to what you want. The discs and pads have only had the stated mileage. Although a cheap brand and came boxed in the car when I bought it, they have been fantastic and would recommend. Surprisingly. Either fit these to yours, put in a box for storage ð or keep for spares. I haven't drained all of the brake fluid out as I wouldn't want things to rust. As such I have sprayed them all with wd40 and wrapped them up. What you see in the pics is what you get. Happy to split but still the same price ðĪĢ Bloody heavy, so you are welcome to collect from s26 or I will happily post at your cost. If they don't sell on here I shall stick them on gumtree or Ebay for more. Some guy wants 200 pounds for his... get real hence not sold ÂĢ60 Bargain, i think...but you pay the fees if not friends and family PayPal. Anything with the queens head on also accepted
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Routed the wiring today. Stuck my relays on the side of the battery with enough slack to pull out, removed the front grille and rad top fixings and tyrapped it down low to the O/S headlight. Only took half an hour surprisingly. I want to do the change over when it is dark to see the difference, sad I know. Pleased with it ð ðĄ
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Quality that ð. I will pinch the part numbers and add to this, if that's ok
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Be nice to sell the 280s ð. If you change your mind , the offer of sending the mk4s is there. I will add your info to the end of the thread. I need to look at adding the torque settings to some of the fittings. Having a rest now so should finish writing it tomorrow ð
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I think I have a genuine set of those discs in the garage. Had them years, so need the surface rust cleaning off. You can have them for the postage if you want. I can post up a pic
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You dont need to remove the door cards they are at the very bottom of the door. Remove the clips, but they also have an adhesive tape on the back. ð which I'm guessing Shaun has used his posh tape on
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Hi all, for now please post any additional comments in here and I will add to the proper thread. I have had to stop as I seem to have exceeded the picture limit !! So will contact Toby hopefully for a solution. I think I will write each part and add the pics later If anyone thinks adding part numbers would be beneficial or anything else let me know. Just trying to give something back ð
