_Matt_

They are also stuck on with a gasket, however have you checked the membrane behind the door card? This is often the source of water in the pass footwell and the membranes get battered over the years. Rear boot leak - have the grommets behind the badges been off and not replaced?

Yeah he cancelled the order in the end... However I swapped out the cam sensor to the one from my previous Corrado and changed the coil pack back to the origina VW item that came with the car and it started ok after a long warm up to fans last night. Time will tell and needs road use. MOT booked later this week. I ordered a Beru coil pack from autodoc but they delivered a Stark item. I know it is an unknown brand but was running it. I didn't open the box for months, cheeky buggers changed the invoice online to Stark also. There is no way i'd pick that brand myself.

This is the advert https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266805869325 It's well below the £135 value as well.

Ebay seller is now saying won't post to England... I have pleaded please 🙏.. awaiting a reply otherwise back to making a loom for a later style sensor.

I have found one in Europe on ebay and taken a 5% discount but had a rogering of 30Euro to have it posted. Given you've both had possible success, it's obsolete and this could be my last chance to get the right part it's worth it if it lasts another 30 years.

OK I'll give the making a loom a bash and will buy the alternative cam sensor. I will put my used spare one in for now also but can't be sure that part is any good. Will also put the one way valve in and do the FPR as have a new Bosch one sitting here. This could also be a mixture of things I suppose, couple of weaknesses bringing the system down. Cam sensor must get pretty beat with heat. I have come across a guide to test with a multimeter and will compare results of both my sensors whislt I await figuring out how to do the loom

Andrew from AVS spares gave a good tip re the Cam sensor - he said 06A905161A is physically the same and easy to get but has an oval type connector. He had the smart idea to make up a loom to convert from Corrado to the newer bubble type connector. I'm not sure this is my actual issue but thought to share for anyone else reading and looking for solutions for this part. I haven't replaced the 167 or the ECU relay yet, hadn't thought about them until today.

It hasn't on this one, may as well throw one on. Not a lot else to change now. I have the one from my old car here, though still a 30 year old part. Edit to add it seems the part no 021 907 601A is obsolete everywhere. VCDS doesn't show any fault codes whether warm or cold also.

Decided to go ahead and change the fuel pump today. My car had a pierburg pump and I have changed to a VDO pump and sender. Warm start issue of longer cranks still not resolved. I removed the one way valve on installing new pump so perhaps will put it back in. Car drives well, done 15 miles on it since works.

The Koni kit comes with the bottom spring plate for the rears. You might need the top plates and the rubber bit to locate the spring The front shocks need the spring top plate 1H0412341 (VW Classic parts did them for £20ish for both, ebay sellers seem to double that), some top mounts and the nut that secures top mount to damper but everything else is in the kit to build a secondary unit off the car. The kit comes with a nut and spring washer but that is for the part that secured that top plate (bit you can see I'm engine bay that comes through the turrets, forget what it is called) I used a mixture of vw classic parts, autodoc and AVS spares in Swaffham to get the bits. AVS has a nicely organised parts catalogue online too

Yay, you won't regret that purchase. Don't take as long as me to fit them - think I had the box sitting for 10 months! Are you all sorted for the other parts like spring plates etc?

Another great piece of kit is one of these camber tools. I have set the fronts to 1.2 degrees so should get away with a tracking job at the mot garage to straighten the wheel. Way off in the picture. I picked it up second hand for £40, already had the spirit level. I have bought some kit to do a string alignment but can't be bothered this time around.

All good been for a drive and stamped on the pedal to kick in abs and no problems. Tbh I think this was a mixture of me not remembering what 30 year old brakes feel like and the nerves of driving a car you've just put back together on the road. I have a sealey pressure bleeder and my wife pumping the pedal did wonders, lots of air came out with that process vs just using the pressure bleeder alone. I have done the master cylinder, abs and clutch also. I also paint marked all the bolts after torqued which gives peace of mind no bolts have moved! Will drive it about a bit more today and tomorrow and get an mot next week (runs out tomorrow!). The rear beam job was not too bad Dave, I could have done it quicker if I hadn't procrastinated so much!! If you need any help please do shout! I have my order history from autodoc etc to help with parts and Bently for torque specs. Oh and lastly the koni and h&r is superb. I had thr b12 last time l and swapped the eibach for h&r which improved things but the koni shock feels smoother than the bilstein. I have set the damping in the middle of the turns, 2 full turns I believe.

I do have your washer bundle but also have nos short and long arms too. Can never have too many spares 😄

I think the best solution is to buy a scissor lift 🤔... Will have one more bash and will drive it tomorrow. MOT runs out on Sunday so it is now or never for a test.

Teves 20 was on my to do list but not sure I want to go that far. The mk3 16v I had for a little while was a piece of cake to bleed. I had my wife out again before kids bedtime and we had another go. We didn't do master cylinder yesterday and there was a lot of air. Did it 3 times. The rears and drivers side were bubble free but oddly the passenger side front that has been bleeding fairly clear bled dirty fluid. Wife has gone to bed so another try tomorrow but there must be some sort of air blockage or something somewhere. The pedal did get rock hard after bleeding but when I turned the car on the pedal went softer again, which if I recall is normal but still feels soft. Though to be honest I no longer know what is normal! Perhaps I will leave it and use to see what happens....

That is odd! Perhaps it is an O-Ring like you thought that had dried out but now moistened up with fuel. I am only guessing though! Good Luck with the resolution.

Yeah same re fluid - it just flows out with pressure bleeder attached and soon filled up the dry lines. I did 4/5 times on my own with the pressure bleeder and pumping pedal before hand. When my wife helped me out I did see some more bubbles when she was pressing the pedal. There was also a big air bubble from the master cylinder. The brakes are a lot better since I got my wife to help and the car stops okay but there is just more pedal travel and i can hear air when i pump the pedal. My system was just empty for the rears as haven't touched the fronts this time around. Perhaps that it is why the car is braking ok as no air in the fronts. Yes on the Regulator i set the bolt so it was fully open. I will try this time with leaving it in the half way position. I'm also going to bleed out say 500mls of fluid from each rear caliper and make double sure my wife keeps foot pressed down on brake whilst i do up the bleed nipples to rule out sucking air back in. When she helped me we didn't do the master cylinder, perhaps there is still air in there. Do you know if there is a order to it - i.e. do master cyl first and then calipers (furthers from MC and rotate) or vice versa? Also the drivers rear caliper is surely the furthest from the MC by pipework length so i have been starting there rather than the passenger side.

They are a bugger. Pete A is also suffering with this job as well. Going to do master cylinder and calipers again today. Bentley says 20 pumps of pedal, press and hold with ignition on for no more than 120 seconds whilst bleeding rears. Same procedure if using a pressure bleeder too which I am. Same again for the front but no ignition. I also pin the regulator to fully open as easy to do with fresh bolts/new regulator.

Yep need to bleed again. It is a real bugger - using a pressure bleeder and someone pumping the pedal. I've also done the master cylinder, abs pump and clutch 4 times. I did let the fluid drain out when working on the rear though. Brakes work fine just too much pedal travel and can hear the hiss of air when pressing pedal. Job for my wife tonight 😄

ha yes it filthy dusty. The colour is nice in the sun. I am about to go wash it and take it for it's first spin. I had a hell of a time bleeding the brakes. I roped my wife in to assist in the end and we followed the Bentley to the T. I have a pressure bleeder and could not get all the air out on my own (5 attempts). I am still not sure if i have it all out, pedal is nowhere near as firm as the modern cars I am now used to driving however it maybe that i have just forgotten what 30 year old brake design feels like. Pedal doesn't sink and it stops fine on the drive, just more travel than my modern cars.

Finally out of the garage ready for a test drive.. and a wash.

Just catching up on this topic as will need to do soon. Can you remove the wiper assembly without removing the black plastic scuttle panels? I have a lot of play in the small gold arm but probably best to remove the whole lot and refresh what is needed. Video attached to show 20240507_141818.mp4

oh no! Are you sure it isn't from the fuel pipe into the fuel rail? They can harden over time and leak. Mine were replaced because of this also. The fuel is at high pressure so it is feasible for it to spray everywhere. Each injector is locked into place with a little clip, perhaps one of those has worked its way loose as another place to look.

Updates, I just need to put the wheels back and do a string alignment and car is ready for MOT. Runs out on 12 May. There are couple of jobs to sort in the near future (fuel pump, waiting on the sender from classics and the wiper mech is pretty loose). Summary of jobs done over the last year, car has has done less than 200 miles in that time 😞. It is almost ready to be used at last: Engine Bay: Timing chains, head refurb, 263 cams, clutch serviced etc at Stealth Replaced Aux water pump with a Bosch unit Lower hose coolant pipe Injectors refurbished Brake booster sensor fixed New coilpack + spacer mod Bosch CPS sensor Oil pressure sensors + sender for cubby console dials New fuel lines, filter etc Chassis Front end: New wishbones with R32 bushes Inner and outer track rods Ball joints Top mounts Rebuilt hubs with new bearnings, abs sensor and rings New discs and pads on stock calipers. May upgrade in the future. They look crap in the pic as were done 200 miles ago. Koni TA + H&R springs Rear end: Refurbished the rear beam with all new parts and brake lines, regulator and handbrake cables. Went for mk4 rear calipers. Discs pads and bearings were done 200 miles ago. Koni TA + H&R springs Powerflex rear axle bushes Body It's in pretty good shape having had a windows out paint job in its life. New rubber trims etc were all installed back then. I had 3 door dings pulled out and there were 2 little scabs of rust I took back ot metal and touched in. Box sections and sills have been treated to Bilt Hamber cavity wax Underside at the rear end I have cleaned up as much as I could be bothered and sorted out any areas where underseal was failing with back to metal, treated, zinc rich primer, gravitex by brush. Stainless tank straps Next steps Get it back on its wheels, wash it and drive before MOT runs out in case of any teething issues. Use for summer. Winter 2024 Perhaps front brakes as have 288s here already, refresh rad support and cross member (both in great condition currently though so may be not). Mocol oil cooler? PAS lines? Dunno we'll see. MIght not, the plan with the car was to do what was needed and make a nice useable example. Will get some pics of it when it is out of the garage.