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_Matt_

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Everything posted by _Matt_

  1. Hi All, Dox and any others knowledgeable on this subject I would appreciate your steer please. I have finally got myself a fuel pressure kit, less expensive than i had though at £20 off Amazon. I'm looking to get to the bottom of the "long crank issue when warm" I have and have read about on VW Vortex. My current and last Corrado did it and it is annoying and gives the doubt that it won't start when away from the home. The symptons I get are - car starts perfectly from Cold but leave it 30 mins and it cranks longer than you'd expect but will still start. Restart in say 10 mins and it is fine/normal. This did not used to be the case but refurbishing the injectors pushed it from 10 mins to 30 mins. So far I have visually checked the original VW/oem FPR (no fuel in the vac line, can small fuel vapour though), refurbished the injectors and replaced the fuel filter. The pump is original to car looking at it (so 91k old). The car was rolling roaded at Stealth when it had some works done and makes good power, my last Corrado had a fuel pump issue spotted at that point so was replaced with a webasto pump (perhaps that solved the crank issue on that car). I haven't yet installed the 1 way check valve but plan to do so after testing. I did fit one to my last corrado but it made no difference, admittedly the last one was more of a struggle to start and would cough and splutter to life, current one doesn't do this. So far I have hooked up my fuel presssure gauge up to the outflow from the pump (I have simply connected the pressure gauge pipe to the pump rather than T in, hopefully that is ok). It reads a touch over 4bar on prime. After 30 mins it has dropped to 3.5bar and on checking 12hrs later this morning it is now showing 2bar. I realise there is a check valve in the pump so my assumption is this is tired looking at these results? My next test is to "T in" at the fuel rail . I assume I am looking for 4bar there too? Coulple of other questions on what is normal - how long should 4bar of pressure be held for at the rail or at the pump? I assume dropping down after 12hrs is ok and cold start ECU programming demands more fuel to compensate? Would it be right to assume the drop of 1/2 a bar of pressure in 30 mins at the pump check valve is likely my warm start issue as the ECU is looking for a mixture at 4bar? Cheers, Matt
  2. Welcome, your project sounds excellent. Post up a members ride thread if you get a chance.
  3. Thank you. If i hate the powerflex bushes I may jsut take you up on that! That was another area I debated on what route to take. My last one I went new rubber and was happy. A couple of local guys went Powerflex and were happy and I chatted to Vince when it was in for chains etc and he said go OEM front wishbone, R32 rubber rear wishbone and Powerflex rear Axle if modifying the suspension anyway. As they are a piece of cake to fit I thought I'd give it a go.
  4. Yeah i debated what to do with Powder Coating. I had a chat with the place that did it and they have put a zinc primer on and a "nylon" powder coating. They did a great job vs stuff I've had done elsewhere in the past. They even cleaned out the screw threads and have coated in areas missed on previous stuff (like behind the anti roll bar on the rear beam is all coated where as that was missed/light on the last place). The snapped bolts are on the front subframe/front wishbone bolt. The trouble I'll have with drilling out is a normal sized drill bit won't reach from the hole with smaller drill bits. Worth a try though.
  5. TBH I thought it would be more hassle than it was worth to me to take it and refit, especially if i wanted to try and get it working if parts were broken. It made the car worth a bit more to the graveyard so I left it in for that reason too.
  6. Doh! Thanks both. I'll edit the posts and will re-do.
  7. And I'm sure everyone loves a "before" shot of the rear beam: My next headache will be getting this bolt out from a spare subframe i'd like to get powdercoated. Any ideas welcomes, I have tried heat (the hot stuff in the yellow bottle), welding a nut on the end. No joy. Both sides are the same. And lastly a pic of the car before i started working on it.
  8. Removed the rear beam and had it powdercoated. Fitting new parts and lines, went for Powerflex rear bushes on Vince's recommendation Also Replaced the fuel filter and the rubber lines going to/from it. Perhaps this might help with the "longer crank than expected" on warm restarts, old filter was old. No pics of that bit yet. I kept hold the fuel pump from earlier on in this thread, will strip the pump out of the body and put it in my pump eventually if issue unresolved. I also cleaned the floor plan at the rear end. Nothing concourse, just aimed to the get the grime off and probably could have done a better job if I spent hours at it. Fitted stainless tank straps whilst I was at it. Pics
  9. Just some updates, I've been working on the rear beam recently and also refurbished the front hubs. These are pics from the ones I did for a friend but I did mine with the same idea except I made sure the bolts for the disc guard were useable on mine, my friend was planning on running big brakes so didn't need the guards.
  10. The Davia air con was on the Corrado i sent to the breakers. Funny it was the same colour as my current Corrado - twilight violet. It needed full repaint, wings, around the screen, new boot lid and bonnet and a hole in the floor sorting. Plus the engine was no longer running (electrical issue, probably to do with the alarm).
  11. _Matt_

    Oil filter cap

    I checked the parts diagram for 1992, 1993, 1994 and 1995 on LLL Parts and it lists this part no 06B103485C You can buy it from LLL Parts too for £13 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/06B103485C/end-cap. It is the same part number as what's found on the 1.9 TDi engine oddly.
  12. I am sorted (Chris Ferry thanks) but did find someone is remaking them online which is always good to bookmark: https://omecar.de/shop/halter-blech-spange-bremsschlauchhalter-achse-fuer-vw-golf-2-3-oe-ref-191611797-4/?fbclid=IwAR0OAAuSDmdNbNZhFBQKP-FDDfZrpuLde_gF-zPvGDN0hztsX8cmeQUVX4s
  13. Hi, Has anyone got one of these lying about to sell? Thanks
  14. Well done the pass, good news. Camber is like tonedef and a pain to set up. There is some movement on the knuckle to the two strut bolts bolts into. I do the same and measure on ground and full droop. Never get it perfect and it always messes the tracking up. I wish there was a way to maintain the tracking whilst adjusting the camber, if anyone knows let us know!
  15. I think the VR6 has a different exhaust from factory (different pipe diamater) but aftermarket is all the same. You'll have another consideration too - Resonated or Non-Resonated. Non-res is louder and when it comes to Miltek all it means is you get a straight pipe instead of the backbox on the Resonated system. Both have the "suitcase" style in the middle and a straight pipe from the cat back to the suitcase (same as stock). I have had both options on mine, I prefer the resonated option.
  16. Jetex is a good option on both cost and fit. Miltek is another option but it more expensive than Jetex however looks virtually the same when fitted. I have a miltek on mine, excuse garage mess..
  17. Slow progress but great results. It's not nice working on your back on a car on axle stands, great efforts and much respect having been there and currently there again myself on mine!
  18. _Matt_

    Genuine mats

    Thanks for the heads up, good price. I bought the last set as my drivers side has some wear.
  19. Saw it on Car and Classic and agree with all - bloody lovely and the new owner will be getting an excellent Corrado. GLWS
  20. Yay well done on getting the Corrado out and good luck with the MOT and tracking jobs. I've had man flu and bug after bug all of 2024 so haven't achieved much aside from remove my rear axle for refurbishment. How's the Golf coming along? Corrado is the Daddy though.
  21. Thanks CM, I've sold the car and no longer need but thank you for asking
  22. I think the part no is 191612339 for the spring... however when i was looking for the same spring last year for my Golf 16v (now gone) it was no longer available everywhere i looked.
  23. Happy New Year to all 🙂
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