Kevin Bacon

Do you mean the grey cloth? In which case unfortunately not but there is a grey cloth interior for sale on PVW at the moment! K

If you look on EKTA, there is a whole page of possible Lupo blades and arms! Basically you just need to tell the parts man you need the 'Areo' blades from current Lupo GTIs, i.e. 2003 model year. K

OK G60Jet, there are pros and cons for each cooling method I guess. Don't get me wrong, my mate had a wicked custom made Charge cooler (Pace) made up but he encountered a few issues with it. I just prefer the simpler engineering of intercoolers and if you're really flash, you could also add a Subaru water spray to it aswell :lol: Just gotta watch out for that pressure drop with large intercoolers, but if you can find a genuine Rallye front mounted cooler, you're onto a winner :lol: What fluid would you normally use in a chargecooler? My mate with his 2.0 G60 just used regular G12 with a little neat methanol for good measure, is that the wrong way of going about it? K

Henny and Jedi, I will do my best for you when I'm next at the breakers. That place a is veritable gold mine! K

Oh OK Gav, didn't realise things were so tight in the G60 :( Not to sure to be honest on restricting flow to the rad, but it might create an excessive pressure point?. I suppose you could try a Golf 16V radiator which is 30% smaller than an 8V one. K

I still can't believe the C can do a 150! I once did an indicated 146 and my passenger shat himself! It just climbs up there so effortlessly! My old Golf MK2 16V Turbo max'd out at 139.9 (GPS timed) but it got there a hell of a lot quicker than my VR can manage!! K

Not sure what you mean by tax (road tax? - full whack I'm afraid) but the thing with fluid flywheels is they dull the acceleration and engine braking is non existent, so brake services are more frequent. Autos are fabulous in heavy stop-start traffic but on the open road you will be constantly using kick-down to keep up with a manual - therefore your mpg will take a nose dive. You're looking at well over a grand to replace an auto box, sure it'll out-live a manual (providing you don't bend the torque convertor blades by too many 4000 rpm 1st gear take-offs) but you can rebuild a manual twice for the same outlay or buy 4 used manual boxes. Trust me mate, you'll get bored of the auto after a week! K

No worries. Just something I knocked up cos I was bored! K

Hmmm, I wonder if your thermostat is stuck open? You should see 70 deg on the dash after about 5 mins. How come the the filter is difficult to remove with a sandwich plate? It's only an inch think. K

They don't compete with a decent front mounted intercooler. The principals of charge cooling are sound and valid, but in practice you get much better results with intercooling. I've seen a charge cooled 20V turbo struggle to get inlet charge temps below 50 deg C, regardless of charge radiator size. K

Good man. I can get you a 'VR6 DOHC' rocker cover plate if you want? I noticed a few laying about at my breakers today.....should have got you one whilst there but I didn't think as I was too busy checking out some Passats for a moonroof conversion! K

Mocals come with a 70 degree sandwich plates (as you probably already know) as standard but they do higher ones. The beauty of Mocal sandwich plates is they utilise the stock heat exchanger, so normal water to oil preheating remains unchanged. You should not notice any difference with the oil cooler. My Mocal VR kit gives a regular 94 deg in winter and summer at moderate pace and 104 max when cruising at over 100mph. By all means block the cooler if it's under cooling over winter but you've still got the circuit running at all times and even when blocked, the mocal still retains a cooling effect due to the 70 deg + oil leaving the sump and flowing through the cooler. K

With forced induction engines you do need platinums. When I had my 16V Turbo, I stuck some normal Bosch triples in and it ran like a bag of poo. So I put some Audi S3 plugs in (£20 each!) and it ran like a dream. Platinums have a more concentrated spark to cope with the increased gas speed and volumetric. They also cope with the heat better. K

A testament to VW's build quality, eh? I did the same thing in a Renault 19 16V once and it wrote the car off. The chassis buckled. French cr@p. K

Henny is right, check the white plastic runner clips are clipped onto the seat subframe. They usually wear anyway, so replacements might be a good idea. Only a few pence from the dealer. K

About £100 from the dealer. Just pop to a breakers and get an Audi 100 one is stronger and quieter. I have an excellent local breakers that specialise in VW/Audi. They literally have acres of Golfs, Passats, Audis etc. Only 3 corrados at the moment though :cry: I am willing to aquire any parts and forward on if required. K

Aye, it is indeed a combo of the stock arm and Lupo blade. Took a bit of work to do but I've put it on the car now and even though it's dark, I can tell already that it's an improvement. It sits a lot flatter to the screen and has a bigger wipe area to boot. Basically you need to remove the blade mount from the lupo front arm, chop the curled end off the corrado rear arm and attach the lupo blade mount to the C arm, if that makes sense! Thankfully I have a dremel with numerous angle grinder blades, so it only took a couple of hours. If it gets the thumbs up pending pics of it on the car, I will of course post full instructions. K

Why are some people so intent on 'killing a VR'? What pretence does the VR give off that some folk feel compelled try and beat it all the time? I don't get it. It and the Golf VR6 were never marketed as the definitive speed demon, it's just a luxury cruiser, hence being called Sports Luxury Coupe in America. Anyway, no one is disputing the Subaru is a phenomenal B road weapon. It would take a special Corrado to show one a clean pair of heels. 80s torsion beam suspension and FWD cannot compete with cutting edge rally bred 4WD and 2 x Limited slip differentials. Yeah it's flattering if an old Corrado can 'keep up' with a Scoob, but just accept the C for what it is and enjoy it, rather than trying to prove something. Kachink.... :lol: K

I wouldn't bother with an auto although they do have a wicked kick-down, but a manual is faster and more enjoyable and a lot cheaper should you encounter gearbox problems. Forget about converting from Auto to manual to save some pennies, it's not worth it. Get the 95 manual as it sounds OK to me. K

Oh dear, you have some serious electrical gremlins there mate. Check for rats living in the engine bay and chewing on the wires. Seriously though, check the alternator is OK by putting a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running. Should read 13.8V or thereabouts. If that test is passed with flying colours, get yourself down to Halfords and buy a black battery lead (they're hanging up by the batteries) and attach it to one of the inlet manifold bolts and then the other end goes to battery negative. This always helped with my 16Vs. It provides an extra ground in case the default ones are corroded, which they usually are so you might also want to clean those up. This kind of thing is indicative also of a shagged diode pack in the alternator, so next week, I'd order a diode bridge from VW. It's a white plastic moulding with carbon contacts, about £13 IIRC. Try that little lot and report back to us with any developments. K

New from Haywire Engineering Ltd, a Lupo rear wiper mod. Looks somewhat neater than the standard Corrado item imo. Apologies for the pics, my camera has a pathetic flash on it. Pics of it on the car to follow tomorrow. K

Nice one. The VR one is £339 on Magnex's site, so less than £300 would be good. K

And they can be used on all Corrados and MK2 Golfs. VR6 TMs are good for at least 70K. Even longer on less front heavy cars. You need to order the bush AND the bearing as they are seperate items. I can't remember if you need the VR top plate aswel though for non VR cars as it's been a few years since I fitted them to a Golf MK2. K

It's only dangerous if the grease gets on the brake disc, but that's what the shield plates are for, so you should be OK. I would replace the boots ASAP to avoid wrecking the joints with grit. Kev

Replacing the 2 rubber U clamp bushes with polyurethane ones really tightens things up down there. Kev