Kevin Bacon

:lol: No worries Brian. You gotta have someone to take the pee out of :lol: Supercharged, you can forget about borrowing my dremel now :wink: K

or Rice Gay Violet? K

hehe That had better not be a Gay emoticon!! K

Henny, are you sure you weren't an automotive engineer in a previous life? Your knowledge is very impressive and you also had a MK1 16V, which makes you a top geezer in my book :lol: Anyway, that's enough of the trumpet blowing, he he... Just to confirm, I followed a W reg Scoob today on the way home from work. It had a Hayward & Scott decat on it (the tailpipe and noise are unique to H&S) so was at least 20 up on standard and I was quite pleased the VR could keep up. I already knew it could anyway as my mate has a W reg too with the same exhaust and he is most upset he can't blow me into the weeds :lol: Kev

Nice one DM as I need to do the same. Following my windfall at the dealer today (see lupo wiper thread) I will be fitting a lupo arm to the back too. I intend to remove the hinge pins from both the original rear arm and the lupo one and swap them over using new pins. I've already measured up and it's gonna look sweet :lol: K

Got an unexpected surprise at the dealers today. I went in and asked for the lupo blades to replace mine as they're worn. He then popped out the back and returned with the passenger and driver's blades - complete with two drivers arms. I explained I only needed the blades but he just sold me the whole lot for the price of two blades, what a result :lol: He was already aware of the Corrado mod! Some dealers it seems are on our side! Cool. I intend to use one of the spare arms for the rear wiper. I plan to drill out the arm pins from the rear wiper and the lupo one and swap them over with new pins. Voila! K

I reckon the sensor is either defective or not wired up/severed wire. Not sure what the red switch is, I have a suspiscion it's a rally style battery cut-off thing, but a pic would confirm. Certainly doesn't sound standard! K

Most cambelt related engine meltdowns are due to leaking hyrdaulic tensioners that don't get spotted during a belt change. K

Henny, wow..... You should think about doing some automotive lectures at a college :lol:

Yeah, what's the difference? Boxer, horizontally opposed or flat configuration...all the same AFAIK? I thought Boxer was an Alfa/Ferrari coined term? Anyway, yeah dubster......I saw this 'transplant' mod when I was at Extreme Scoobies in Chelmsford. Basically, some poor chap suffered a melt down in his scoob (piston no 4 and it's associated head were molten lumps) so opted for the Legacy upgrade! Well over 5Ks worth.....ouch. A standard build of the 2.0 would have 'only' cost £1300. Kev

Ah, gotcha. 1 C is bad enough, dunno how you cope with 3!

Henny, the cover doesn't include relays....just a fuse inventory. Kev

I've seen a fair few scoob engines on a workbench. They're tiny when stripped down! A nice upgrade is a Legacy 2.5 bottom end with Legacy heads, manifolds and turbos. Yes, turbos, one per bank! Awesome. Kev

Shame. How much did the chains and tensioners come to? It's about £200 worth all in isn't it? I think I might make it my Spring/summer project! Oh and I thought if you replace a chain you have to replace the sprockets aswell, as per push bikes and motor bikes? Kev

I've also kept up with one but neither really has much over the other to be honest. There's also a couple of versions of the 24V engine, the very last of them also had variable valve timing and VW being VW, the power figure is very conservative. In America stock ones see 210 - 215ish and about 240 with some rudimentary tweaks. Kev

I'm not really but the small oval does look rather stock like and subtle. I'm after one for the same reason as 2CC, to store until needed as my original system isn't too bad. The hanger welds have snapped off the middle box for the umpteenth time but it's still leak free after 9 years :lol: Kev

Could be the relay, I think it's number 99. It's on the bottom row and the tallest one. Kev

Right I've just checked and cleaned all of my relays. One of the 53s had heavy carbon scoring/pitting and the 2nd one was fine. The worst relays were 167 and 21. 167 is a very heavy duty one and had major pitting and scoring. 21 was equally bad. I've cleaned them all up but the latter two will need replacing. All the other relays were light duty and showed no signs of arcing. Not sure what 167 and 21 do but might be worth checking them over. Kev

There's two of them! Not sure which one you need to replace but if they're not expensive, replace both. They're right next to eachother on the fuse board. VW part no - 141 951 253B Hella part no - 4RA003510-29 Before splashing the cash, lever the lids off them with a screwdriver and look for burnout coils and clean the carbon scoring off the two contacts inside. Kev

That's a bit ambiguous Mike :?:

Do you change it at the MAF end and the ECU end, or just the MAF end? Kev

Kind words Robbo but I'm still learning :lol: Only had the VR since Feb of this year, and it's my first Corrado and first VR engine. I like to pass on anything I learn. Absolutely! Many a time I've had the engine chugging down the road with flatspots and hesitancy. This is why I bought VAG-COM, it's been very helpful. 9 times out of 10 it's an electrical problem! To be honest I don't know mate. There's about 4 or 5 different bloody MAFs for the VR6 engine! One person that will or should know is Vince of Stealth Racing. He explained to me in great detail once (most of which I've forgotten) that all Corrado VRs are OBD1 but the Highline Golf is OBD2, which appears to have the same MAF as you spotted on that 95 Corrado. So as a guess and if that MAF is indeed hot-film, you will need the brain to go with it :cry: EDIT: Ignore last part as Mike Edwards has answered it above. Kev

There's two types of MAF I've noticed on VRs, late ones got the all the plastic one and earlier ones got the one with metal block on it. I believe the late ones are hot film, whereas the ones that keep fooking up all the time are the hot wire ones. I think very late 94 cars and 95 cars got the hot film job, can't be 100% on that though. K

If you're replacing cables, then both ends need some minor stripping. The trickiest part go get to is the heater distribution box as it's buried behind the dash. The facia control panel is easy to work on. Be careful where you route the new cable to avoid kinks and tight bends. K

Nice one. Can you fit all the of the upper tensioning components with the head and box in situ? I did see my upper tensioner blade when I had my tappets done and it was just starting to show signs of small pits at 82K, but didn't look at how to replace it. Just considering doing the upper stuff for the time being. Ta Kev