Kevin Bacon

I found it easier to remove the coilpack first and I also had the radiator out at the time which made it an absolute doddle, but if the rad is in situ.....not a pleasant task. Kev

Could be pump or jammed stat. Have a look for a puddle on the floor under the water pump, if there is, it's internal seal has blown and coolant is then channeled out of the relief valve and to atmosphere. Could also be the hose 2CC mentioned or an air lock. Show it who's boss and attack it with a new stat and some fresh coolant. And remember, please do not fill engine up via the header tank, do it via the rad top hose and you won't introduce air :lol: Kev

Found another potential cutting out cause tonight. I noticed in VAG-COM another error, "Throttle adaption limit reached - Idle stabilisation valve". I checked measuring block number 3 and sure enough, the throttle angle at rest was just under 16 degrees, which is too high. The ECU needs to see 14 degrees or less to switch the idle valve on. I did wonder why the engine zooms up to 1500 rpm when started, now it just has the ECU commanded 1100rpm blip and then settles to 680. Haven't driven it since adjusting the throttle sensor (had to drill the mounting holes out to 4.5mm) so I'll let you know tomorrow if it worked or not but my theory is the idle valve wasn't switching on due to the high TPS angle....we shall see! Kev

Replacing the housing is a good plan as it's plastic and sometimes warps. It is a very common leak point on the VR6. Change the thermostat and it's seal whilst you're there and also the housing-to-block O ring. Do not be tempted to splurge silicon sealant all over the joints....just makes matters worse. There's also an O ring that seals the long transfer pipe from the water pump, change that too. Kev

The Pioneer does actually look superb in the C. I didn't think it would being brushed metal and a titanium sort of colour, but it just looks so neat because it is thankfully absent of the usual crass displays and myriads of buttons, most of which serving no real purpose. Insert CD with 200 odd MP3/WMA files, press go.....listen..... K

I've got one of these and am very pleased with it. I've always had Alpines up till now, Pioneer from now on :lol: Kev

Yes lengthy starts are down to a faulty crank sensor too (G68). I replaced mine about 3 months ago and it came up as faulty on VAG-COM last night, so it's going back to VW for replacement. Kev

Sounds like it's a hardwire fault on the main board, prolly a dry joint. Kev

I assume it's a safety switch to prevent the allen key spinning round and taking a chunk out of your head! Kev

Try pulling the door in a little by adjusting the striker pin on the B frame with a 15mm ring spanner. Don't overdo it otherwise the door will be hard to shut afterwards. Kev

Nice one, good man! You prefer dot mode then? You can have it switchable (dot/bar) if interested. Not bad for under a tenner, eh? Kev

VW's own polish isn't too bad either. The longest water beading period I've had (on a Helious Blue MK2) was just over 6 months using Super resin and their Gloss protection on top. Awesome stuff. Kev

Yeah you may aswell replace the guides and seals whilst it's off. Skimming will depend on head run-out. The 16V head is hardened, so it shouldn't warp beyond tolerance. One thing I would definitely do is fit a 2.0 16V steel gasket from a late valver. Kev

Excellent, glad to hear it's back. Another one saved from the scrap heap :lol:

Maybe the bottom end is knackered and oil is being drawn out of the breather and into the lower airbox. I've seen quite a few Golf 16Vs with engine oil streaming down the inner wing because of worn bottom ends. I sincerely hope your TSR lump isn't in that state but it's worth checking. Also check the breather hose isn't crimping under hard acceleration, as this has the same effect as putting your finger over the end of a garden hose. All this is assuming you're still using the factory breather setup, that is! If none of the above, has to be guides. Kev

Please note that the heatexchanger hoses (near the oil filter) are not part of the VR6 kit. Just so you're aware! And apologies if you already knew. Kev

Yeah I agree. Some fitters make a right mess behind the dash but whilst not excusing their tendencies to break clips and shelf supports, I do think the alarm manufacturers are to blame aswell. For example, does my Clifford Concept 300 or 30 (can't remember what it is) really need 4 boxes? They've all been shoved behind the centre console where it gets very hot and they're just sitting there, held in place solely by being wedged inbetween bits of the heater distribution box and the console. I think that's where my heater problems began aswell as I noticed the muppets had cable tied one of the alarm looms to one of the heater control cables. The large plastic clips that hold the bottom of the shelves to the floor have been discarded because they couldn't be arsed to fit them back again. I'm sorry, but that all constitutes as damage in my book and they should be liable. K grrrrrr......!

£1000 is OTT for a used set imo. I'd rather pay that to get mine recovered to be honest. Thanks anyway Kev

Henny is spot on, although I don't know how many Corrados actually had a volume sensitive stereo fitted! This problem never really occurs if people use the standard ISO connectors all Corrados came with. It's only when fitters hack the stereo loom up that problems occur! Kev

No it won't affect your premium or NCB. You just pay a screen excess, which is usually £50. Not a bad thing if the Corrado screen is just shy of £500! Kev

I just used the standard 16V gearbox and 100mm CVs off a late MK1 Cabriolet...never had any CV breakages with those :lol: Never had any diff pins fly through the casing in any of my numerous 020 boxes either, must have been lucky 8) K

Yeah...you sometimes live and learn the hard way, like I did! Being a cheap skate during my MK1 16V conversion, the inner CVs went off and on a few times and I reused the bolts. A few months later and during a clutch change (should have done that during the conversion!) I noticed 3 of the heads of said bolts were missing...... Moral of the story, don't be a tight arse like me....replace them bolts! K

That's just plain silly! It's not even decent quality glass either, mine's covered in scratches and swirl marks......but, AFAIK, it is still the original one. K

Depends if it's an inner or outer, inners are easier to replace. If it's the inner one, remember to replace the spline bolts (8mm spline head) x 6 as they are of the stretch variety. If it's the outer, follow the Haynes/bentley procedure but you will need a torque wrench that goes up to 200lb/ft to retighten the hub nut. Clonks over bumps can also come from suspension top mounts. Inner CVs normally click as the car pulls away from rest. Outer ones rumble and clonk during cornering. Kev

Yep, but break it first so you only have to pay the £50 excess, otherwise Autoglass or whoever will charge you the full whack, which is gonna smart a bit, gotta be around £200? Personally I'd remove the plastic trims yourself instead of the fitter yanking them off gung-ho fashion and busting the clips. And then reiterate that a high standard of fitting is critical, otherwise it'll leak. K