Kevin Bacon

Alright you two have backed me into a corner now, so I give up, almost :lol: Last attempt, promise You two sound like you know what you're talking about but I just have this theory nagging in the back of my head.....surely the opposite of lift is push? i.e. downforce? Quoted from a book called "VW Golf"....It was not just a gimmick because VW reckoned that the extra downforce created by the extended airfoil amounted to 64 percent" I'm just thinking that if it's affect is minimial, why have it raise up into the airstream at all, and just leave it fixed? In the same way aeroplane airfoils and alerons (sp?) slow down or alter direction, surely the spoiler on the back creates downforce? Anyway, that's just my theory anyway and I'm probably wrong :? Interesting stuff though. On the subject of the spoiler motor, I drove 600 miles with it strapped down by a bike rack (I forgot to disable it) so it must have thermal cutout fuse or something, so if frozen, it shouldn't damage it. K

So it's just a gimmic and VW's claim of XX pressure at xxx mph is a complete fabrication then? It's basic physics, put anything in the path of airflow and it creates an opposing force, in our case, down.... I know the difference between cosmetic spoilers and functional ones. We'll have to agree to disagree. K

Just the regular ones. You can try the platinums if you like, you won't notice a performance boost but they'll last longer than regular plugs, which I think is the whole point of them. Kev

LOL, take yourself down to the Formula one pits and tell the engineers that, FBLOL! K

You can edit your own posts mate, hopefully before someone else spots the error! Kev

I doubt it, I've never tried! The 16V plugs are very different to the VR6 ones, physically, so best to stick with them to avoid running problems. Kev

I've used both the Bosch and NGK plugs, no difference between the two, running wise. The NGKs have wider gaps than the Bosch plug but the engine feels the same using either. K

Hmmm, not sure in that case. They found it in EKTA no problem when I called them to order mine. AFAIK, the main thread that goes into the engine has a 17mm head and the smaller thread that secures the 02 sensor plug plate is a 13mm head. Are we talking about the same bolt? Mine's the one that drops through the mount from the top, behind the engine block. Kev

Cheers Mat Next job on the VR is rear axle bushes, so I might pick one of those exhausts up from G&S and coincide the two jobs :lol: Ta Kev

I too have the original VR system on, which makes it 9 years old. Both rear box's outer skins are rusting away and the hanger welds keep breaking, but apart from that, still leak free and quiet sounding. What a bargain if you can replace the two rear boxes for less than £200! Are they genuine VAG then? And sectioned for fitting over the axle? Ta Kev

I'll have the charger off an SL55, yum. The one that comes with a 5.5 V8 :lol: Don't think it'll fit under the bonnet though.... K

Do they really? I thought sequential injection was way too flash for a VW, but now you're telling me it can alter the timing per cylinder?? This is too much, I can't take anymore....... :lol: it's just too swanky for me, gotta sell it and buy something basic :lol: K

I used to have a 16V Turbo, cracking engine. Stealth built it using the one of the last Turbo Technics kits, plus a few of his special modifications to refine it. It was very smooth and very quick and still going strong, now churning out 260bhp it's current owner happily reports!

Oh yes G60s and VRs are troublesome, but it's worth it :D Besides which, you've got a 2.1 under your hood anyway, so you should be the same, if not more, than a standard G60.....on paper. K

If the 16V had proven to be the best Corrado over it's entire 6 year (89-95) evolution, then that's the one I'd be driving. As with buying any car, it's all about pedigree, price and expectations. Just look at the historical journalism notes.....everybody said the 16v was too slow and were thankful when the G60 arrived as it produced a good spread of torque, compared to the 16V's narrow torque band, which lived much higher up the rev band. Then the VR6 came along, which had the most toys, most refinement and biggest street cred. The 16V set the standard, G60 smoothed over the edges and the VR polished it off. Small numbers of 16Vs compared to G60/VR6 does not mean it's a bad car, far from it, Lord only knows how many valvers I've had over the years, but you can't argue with public opinion and the people wanted the higher powered models, simple as that. K

That's cause you can't drive and you were in reverse.... :lol: I don't think an 8V is anything to be ashamed of. On today's over-crowded roads and overpriced petrol, it actually makes the most sense. It may be the diet version but it's just as handsome as it's brawnier brothers. K

If we're talking about an 1800 valver, how does K Star automatically retard the timing without a knock sensor? I've had two K Star KS301s on past valvers and they didn't automatically adjust anything. They just obeyed manually entered fuel and ignition settings. You can get a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor for KS301 and it will then be load sensitive. The only gripe I have with K Star is it's too slow, but I think they have recently uprated the circtuitry to make it respond faster. The easiest way to get an 1800 16V to run on 95 unleaded is to use the brain from a South African MK2 Golf 16V. K

You're not imagining things. I found the same in my VR.

from a sensor!? maybe its that then?? Yep, the ECU pulls ignition advance right back when the cam sensor goes. Retarding the ignition timing to that degree is going to show up on the rolling road I'm afraid. Mine delivered 170 ponies and 165lb/ft with a dead sensor......10 mins later with a new sensor, it made 200 Shetlands and 193 pounds of twisty stuff. K

He did say "There are other Corrados but the VR6 is the best one". Couldn't agree more :lol: They wouldn't have time to feature all 3 engine types. K

They're more expensive because of the L shaped recess tubes that go into the head. VR6 and G60 just use regular ends which are a lot cheaper to produce. As for resistance, they should all have 5-6Kohm radio interference suppressors in the Dizzy end. Kev

What ever.

Indeed, 30hp to be precise! Yeah the airbox can be modified by removing the Helmholtz resonator from the upper section and fitting a guttering elbow in the lower section which points down into the carbon canister hole. That's what I've done but I've put the resonator back as I'm not really keen on induction roar. I wouldn't say I've freed umpteen ponies, but the engine does rev a little keener due to the cold air, and that's what it's all about, improving drivability. Kev

Yeah the VR clutch is a strong old beast. Uprated ones not really required unless you are running some very major mods, in which case a centreforce or Helix Autosport kit might be in order. Funny how they judder when cold....but that only seems to happen when you change out the original factory fit one. I've had two SACHs fitted recently, the first one juddered so got it redone and the second and current one also judders. I've given up on it and just live with it now. Regarding Quaiffes. I've driven a MK1 2.0 8V with a Quaiffe and I can tell you it is a good upgrade. The cornering is unbelievable, the diff pulls you round the corner. Takes a bit of getting used to. Hopefully a Quaiffe in a VW won't be as nasty as it is the Focus. Bumpsteer and tramlining is horrendous in the RS. You constantly fight the steering wheel. Kev

I believe you can do it by either using some adapters or the preferred method (based on info from other members) is to use VR6 rear discs and VR6 front hubs and discs. That latter should bolt on and they can come from a Golf or Corrado VR6, but watch out when pilfering from the Golf VR as the really late ones had 288mm discs. You need 280 ones. Kev