fla

Stan 24v, sorry mate didnt take any, but I'll probably be stripping the doors down again at some stage so I'll take some then and post up. There's a lad selling some soundprrofing on ebay 2.5mm thick and about £30 for 10 sheets 20" x 7" which seams a damn good price. Could do two door at least with that.

Just put some of the self adhesive roofing felt on the inner skin of the drivers door to give it a better "thunk". Double layered the door and put some fabric felt i bought on the foam side of the door card. Certainly helps on the noise front - we were doing about 130 on a *cough* a private track and talking absolutely normally. Only did the fabric felt on the passenger door card and that is leagues better too. You certainly notice the noise whn you open the windows or sunroof though. £20 from B&Q (i had a spare roll). I've put a little wedge along the bottom of the inside of the door just in case the heat makes the felt soft and start sliding, shouldnt really do that though. I've got the original Nokia speakers and I cant believe the improvement in sound quality. Amazing. BTW, can anyone suggest some cheapish speaker upgrades? A mod defintely worth doing. I'll be doing the rest of the car soon too, although I'll try some Skinz if it is as cheap, which according to some, is.

I would be interested in some modern touches like that too. I started a post on something similar a while bck but didnt get any responses. The switches do let the dash down a lot, as do the led clusters at the bottom of the clocks - theres an intersting mod for this on the Canadian forum by Zarman. Having said that, if anyone can come up with something for the switches it would be interesting to explore.

Can anyone give a slightly more detailed (read step by step) installation guide for this, might be useful for the Wiki for those like me who are still learning?! Thanks

Jam3383 - great guy, thanks for the assistance on the leds. BTW guys get some of his dash kits they're well made and perform very well indeed.

Has anyone painted the centre console curround in a pearly metallic paint, like more modern cars have or can anyone photochop a pic to see if it is worth doing? Not too much of course just the surround lip to the heater switches, HU and middle vents (that central piece) I've got a VR (round heater controls) Pics appreciated. Cheers

Test for continuity between the d/s and p/s switch - if there is no power there then that's your problem. Basically disconnect the switch and, with the ignition on, check for power across the pins. I think ETKA has the switch wiring diagram, but if not theres only 6 pins to check in sequence. Check connections to the window control uit to see if tehe are any obvious open circuits. Failing that, take out the drivers switch, dismantle it and see if the legs of the connectors are not shorting out the circuit board. Safest bet here is once you've got teh switch apart, just lift the curcuit board slightly with a small screwdriver and carefully slide a small strip of insulation tape between the pins and the pcb. If it still doesnt work then get a new control unit!

Like it craigowl. And as you rightly point out, a lot of auto cosmetics have multiple uses, its just a question of being aware that a polish is different from a wax. Getting back to the point, i'm not really a big believer in lacquering polished rims. You either spray them with paint or polish them, but lacquer is definitely not an option.

Yes to an extent - I've polished my rims with Belgom which has a wax in it and its pretty good. I dont think there is a "best" way to solve this one tho. The problem with lacquer is once it goes you'll have to strip the whole lot off again and redo. With polish, you can polish the wheels every time you wash the car. And if you DO get some pitting, just get the buffer out for a few mins and you're back to a shine. HTH

polished the doorlock pins and bonnet latch - look nice and blingy now. Just need to do the lock mechs and door hinges now.

yeah thats about right, it should be anywhere between 500 & 700 ohms, although that is just a static test. If you've got an oscilloscope, wave some metal in front of it with 12v applied to the sensor and see if you get a reading. Better still if you can borrow one from someone to try, that'll rule it out one way or another.

Steve B, check the injectors for power when you're cranking it - its abit fiddly to get one of the end connectors out of the ful rail (brown in colour). Anyway, stick a voltmeter across it and if there is no power then check the spark to see if you have ignition, as per Haywires note. The crank sensor is located at the front of the engine block, on the underside towards the radiator . You'' recognise it by a 5mm thick black lead coming away from the engine block. It may still be ok - certainly give it a clean and clean the sensor mating surface with emery, spray some WD40 on it and see how you get on. The other thing to check is relay 109 for the ecu - remove clean and spray the spade connectors. Then reseat a few times. Check this by applying 12v directly and see if it chatters at all (which it shouldnt). HTH

2_Door_fun, do you have the sandwich plate and thermostat setup or is the mocal permanantly in circuit regardless of oil temp?

MarkGolf, I'm in th esame position as you my man. I've got just the cooler and nothing else. I'd be interested in your comments g-man, Oh, and mines a VR with aircon so i'm a bit rtestricted on space.

Just a thought - if you need to do some work on the windows how ill you get to the mechanism without chopping everything up again? I've used some self adhesive roofing felt (aluminium coated) on the door skin on one side (so far) so it still allows access to the door components. Only one layer though.

g60griff, the car does look very impressive. Well done.

Hello mate, I stripped and polished my TT rims - they were in a shocking state with lacquer peel and corrosion. Basically there is no short cut just plenty of hard work, but you can easily do them in about 2 weekends. The results are impressive though and I've not lacquered mine after polishing. You can get a polish called Belgom which protects unlacquered wheels well. TBH, if you do lacquer them, if or rather when, the lacquer lifts you'll have to strip them back down again and start over, hence i dont think its a very good idea to do. Just make sure you dont use them in winter! In a nutshell, strip them down with Nitromors, use some steel brush attachments in a drill to assist removal of the softened lacquer. Then rub the rough areas with 120grit w&D. You'll need some polishing mops too - I got mine from http://www.thepolishingshop.com. and they'd got a good guide too on their site. HTH Wish I'd taken some pics of mine along the way now :(

Yes, but if the C had a twin turbo 24V it would leave the Golf for dust, AND look super cool at the same time.

Company is called Vehicle Climate Control, who also do the Diavia systems. Nice clean setup, Martin Penfold owns the place. Polite helpful chap. Address: Unit 6 Perivale New Business Centre 19 Wadsworth Road, Perivale, Middx, UB6 7LF Tel: 020 8810 7666, web: http://www.car-aircon.co.uk £50+VAT for system vacuum, regas&lube plus dye to check for leaks.

Best best use some foam draft excluder under the operating rod - it holds well and doesnt wear down much from the rod rubbing on it.

NickVR6, I'd be interested in the inpros. Any pics available?

Thats definitely a 109 problem - i had the same problem so change that and also clean the fuse panel contacts by spraying WD40 on the relay spades and reseating it a few times. It can get dangerous if it cuts out when you're on a roundabout or something tho, so better safe than sorry, for only a few notes. All the best.

gradeAfailure, yep, those are the ones. Good lad. Its a useful set of pointers too in Dennis' article, and his engine bay does look smart imho.

I think there's one on the Canadian C forum, by Dennis, He certainly appears to known his stuff. Dont know how to post links on a webpage but you can find it in their technical forum

Try moving the dashpot up a little bit - its the yellow bellows under the throttle cam which catches the cam on its way down. You need to loosen the fixing nut (8mm iirc) and unsrcew the the dashpot a few turns so it catches the cam sooner. Check it anyway by opening the throttle by hand and seeing if the dashpot damps its movement on the way down. HTH