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Separate spur means its got a separate isolating switch inside (one of those fuses with a switch with an orange neon fitted) and perhaps on another circuit breaker at your consumer unit. Whats the current rating of the hot tub? Usually the largest breakers are 32amps in the consumer unit so if you're above say 15 amps its best to use a separate one. The new breakers have smaller low amp RCDs attached - i think the rules have changed recently. Best to check with your sparky.

Looks like all the issues have been sorted out - should be a cracking car

no problem at all, thanks for offering to help anyway. Hasan

what a fantastic garage!

I've now fitted the following: 6mm closed cell foam adhered to 10mm dense open cell foam covered with tecsound mass loaded vinyl. this is on the floor area of the car., up to the bottom edge of the dash. Closed cell foam towards the ground (noise source) The drivers door i've tried a combination of 3mm closed cell foam covered with 10mm dense open cell foam with some black self adhesive felt. This has been stuck to the door card with the closed cell layer towards the door skin. In the boot, i've put a cut-off from a landrover bonnet insulation panel under the booth carpet above the tyre. I've removed the old flaky bonnet insulation but not replaced it yet - this may be a source of noise as it might be coming straight from the engine, through the bonnet and through the bulkhead. Still seem to be getting more noise in than i would like - just wondering if anyone has done the bulkhead when the dash was out and if so the kind of results you had? I'm also thinking that noise must be getting in from the seals somewhere. If so, this will be the plan for next summer... Any other areas people have insulated with good outcomes? Any replacement seals make a difference? Thanks Hasan

I guess i should think a bit more first! 31 for ground and BR for live! Had to remove the resistor for the led indicators but will prob use a body earth for the brake light Anyway they're there for anyone for any future installs

Where should these connections go for the third brake light? I cant seem to get it to work in any combination... The grey with black stripe is the negative for the light. Thanks Hasan

fantastic just let me know paypal details and i'll ping some money over

Hi goldfinger, would it be possible to get just the plugs from you as i've already got a loom? many thanks if you can but no problem if not

Oh sorry, my misunderstanding. I didn't realise there were two types too! Looks like you've got it sorted though

Just changed the top mounts, bearings and bump stops on the front. Had to loosen the driver side top mount nut a little as the bush wasn't centred in the strut turret. So this means the spring top plate is now not all the way down. It was fitted by compressing the spring first and then lining the plate up with the end of the spring. Now it will be 5 or 6mm higher. Will this be detrimental at all or nothing to worry about? Thanks Hasan

Don't know about the mk4 tensioner bolt but the original one has the pressure built up as the oil pressure rises. Is the Mk4 one the same? If it is perhaps you could pull the tensioner piston out a little bit so its closer to the chains. Keep it in oil so you don't draw in any air. Bleed it via the centre hole if necessary. Then crank the engine with no spark plugs to allow pressure build up in the tensioner

I'm assuming you've replaced the lower tensioner as well?

James i cut an n-shaped shim and placed it between the hinge and the frame. About 15 years ago and it still seems to be ok with no apparent further sagging of the door. Just loosened the bolt a bit, tilted the door and dropped the shim in there. Hasan

have you checked for a spark? Pull one of the plugs after trying to crank it and see if its wet with fuel or hot from ignition. If its dry and cool it could be your ecu relay 109 which shuts power to both injectors and sparks. So you'd still get fuel in the rail but the injectors wont be opening. Take the relay out and apply 12v directly and see if it closes. Crank sensor has some resistance readings, but i'm not sure what they are - maybe someone can advise? The alternative is to connect it to a meter and wave a piece of steel in front of it and see if you get a reading Also your fuel pressure regulator - may be goosed although i doubt it would prevent firing up. I think the first plan is to check the spark plugs after turning the engine over. I would check and clean the sparks too - a friend's vr had new sparks and wouldn't fire. Turned out they were all gunked up from repeated trying and standing still for about 6 months. Cleaned them up, gave it an Italian tune up and all back to normal..

pfnsht some pics of my install - they're not the best tbh, but hope they help Hasan

As fender suggests, pull the 167 relay and see if it switched the pump off. If it does, best to replace it. As a short term fix you can pop the cover off and clean up the contacts assuming its got stuck between the poles. Then use 12v to see if it opens and closes cleanly before putting the cover back on.

Great pics!

Kevhaywire made a superb loom some years back for his car using micro relays which he kept inside the car, doing away with the need for a waterproof box. Hopefully once the old pics are back we should be able to see his setup. Ive made a loom for mine but cut and joined the wires to the original connectors so no spades there. Only two relays in a box in the engine bay and two spare relays in the car just in case..

Sorry i missed this - yes I'm in 'old' Middlesex! (Northwood) and many thanks for the offee. Sunroof is back in but because of the clipped plastic clasp its still not working properly on the lhs... Hasan

I think it presses in from the top. Perhaps you could use a socket and g-clamp?

I would imagine et25 will rub the arches as it will be sticking out further. You'll have to go for a narrower width tyre (and hence a bit of stretch) and obviously the compromise will be a slightly harder ride. The VR offset is 35 to 43. Et 31 rubs very slightly. Not sure what the standard offset for a G60 is though I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me can advise. As above, the ideal size on 16s is 205/45/16

Found 2 more annoying rattles - the d/side window.motor against the door skin. Thin piece of neoprene sheet and its gone. Plus some adhesive felt behind the door pull. Forgot to take pics but its nothing spectacular!

Got a slight issue on my drivers door glass with the yellow plastic cable tensioner pressing on the inside of the glass. Not sure how or why its happened. You can see that the LHS of the yellow moulding is tight up against the glass. Ive used another bolt at the top as the thread had stripped in the frame but this is also tight up against the door skin. Any suggestions on this? Hasan

thanks all. Managed to obtain order a set of Febis at a sensible price, just need to wait for them to turn up. Just waiting for my other front bump stop to come - which is two days overdue and no reply from the supplier as yet.. Previously though i'd ordered what seemed like a pair from an ebay supplier (he showed two in the pic) and was almost 50% more than others but details said only 1 piece. Not very clear so not buying from them again.