fla
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Everything posted by fla
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What did you use for this? Nitromors? And how long did it take per wheel? Cheers
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When you open the car you should hear a relay click. If not then that may be your fault. Also, remove the pipe from the CL unit in the bootand blow down it to see if you can open the locks that way. If so that means your pipework is OK. If not then i'd check the pipes going to the passenger lock. Try that first and see how you get on.
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Just looking through the Draper catalogue and they've got a caliper windback tool for about £7. Will this fit or is the Sykes one from Halfords the only compatible one? I guess you could also easily make up something from a metal block and correctly spaced bolts? I've not opened the rear calipers so i'm assuming its two holes which provide the locking mechanism for the removal tool?
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Yep there are bolts which attach the wheel arch liners to the bumper plus there are the two splash panels under the front of the bumper which need to come off. Of couse you'll need to remove the indicators/fogs before removing the bumper. Itsalso a good time to clean up the lenses and generally give the lights a revamp.
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fraz_Vr6, if i were you, dont spend anymore money just tow it to Stealth and they'll sort it out. probably your cheapest option even though it may NOT be cheap to get it sorted. Good luck.
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I've got aircon so the heat exchanger is monted on the engine rad. What would be the problems associated with separating these two?
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Not sure exactly, i'd probably still be sanding if the TV wasn't so crap over christmas. At a guess 50 for the whole lot. Thats good going for such a complex piece of metal. Look forward to the fitted pics now.
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At last some pics - new pics with borbets/coilies
fla replied to double-6s's topic in Members Gallery
TBH if you do want to improve the rear lights I'd take a VERY sharp scalpel and carefully slice off the paint from the lower part (red portion) of the lights. Then give them a good t-cut and polish and they'd look leagues better. Plus its almost free to do :wink: -
Lee, respect to you. How many hours and how many fingers-worth was that then?
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Try cleaning the relay spade connectors - use contact cleaner rather than WD40. Reseat the relays a few times to clean up the fuse panel connections. 109 is for the ECU, 167 is for the fuel pump.
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Instead of replacing the pin try loosening the hinge a placing an n-shaped shim behind to take up the slack. I did that a while back on my drivers side upper hinge to cure a slight sag. Oil and grease the pins in any case. HTH
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Those prices look damn good for a leathered dash, although itseems from their website that they make the leathered portions and you stick them yourself? woody, do give us some more info (pics etc) when its done.
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Doesn't look too bad I'm sure a body shop should be able to sort that out - my brother has just had the side of his beamer done (not his insurance) and the estimate was about a grand, but there was a fair amount of damage there. Still, there will be some filler going in even after pulling the panel out.
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I believe the US corrados dont have it so you can just remove it all together and replace it with a piece of pipework. I've done just that and its not been a problem. Just make sure you put a screw in the little vent arm on the side or you'll have leaks in the system.
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Karl, that's bad to see, but as mentioned earlier glad you're ok. Do have a look down the used parts route - hope you can work something out as I can appreciate the feeling of having spent so much time and affort on the car only to have the insurers write it off. All the best, mate.
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CorradoVR6-n.o.s's VR6 Turbo,,now sold :(
fla replied to CorradoVR6-Turbo's topic in Members Gallery
Looking smart - love the wheels, hopefully when i've finished polishing mine they'll look similar! Did you polish teh manifold and rocker cover yourself? If so, in situ or removed? Bay looks very nice indeed. Good effort there. -
If the window operates from the drivers side but not the passenger it points to the passenger switch. They just pop out - no need to remove the door card. Borrow one from a friend to try and that should confirm the nature of the problem. Might be worth taking it apart cleaning up the button contacts (remove the centre button late on the circuit board and clean the board with some WD40 on a cloth, put some fresh tape over it and reassemble) HTH
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It looks so good already do you really want to (or need to) chrome it?
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If you decide to change colours on the switch dont use leds the dispersion wont give you enough illumonation. Best bet it to cover the bulb with a bulb "condom" in whichever colour suits.
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no good then?
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Its available at £75 from Argos - plays MP3s etc. Is it worth the bother - pretty cheap although i've never been a big fan of the Victor Corporation of Japan stuff. Then again, beggars cant be choosers. Appreciate some comments guys.
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The problem is that the C is SUCH a hard act to follow - anything to replace it would cost bucks and then so would running costs be high. I also like the 8 series beamer, but apart from that there's not much i would consider. Except maybe Jay's C!
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Thats Jays car for you bud :wink:
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Just thought i'd drop some feedback here. Problem looks like being with the ecu and a connector loose on the rear of the fuse panel :x . A real pain but seems to be sorted at the mo. Just like to say a big thanks to RW1 for the fantastic help time and effort to solve this one - your immense knowledge has been very useful indeed. This was one problem that an auto electrician couldnt solve. So much for THAT trade. Again, thanks very much. Now on to the next load of little jobs.... :wink:
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:D