fla

gradeAfailure, good idea mate. Worth picking up the whole lot and fitting - the green "spider" in mine has broken a leg hence my optics are less than pathetic.

Whats the feasibilty of using EL tape or wire - there are various kits on ebay for about a tenner which seem cheap and dont look too difficult to wire up. How big is the inverter for one of those - need to hide it away nicely?

stanbates, its the clock leds that wouldnt tin - or rather the bulb holders, to be precise. After removing the bulbs i tried tinning the same places where the bulbs were welded but with no luck. Switches etc are no real problem - leccy windows are fiddly but I didnt remove the green led from the board just cut it off leaving a good anchor point for soldering on the remaining legs.

What's the best way to remove the control panel completely from the car - I've removed the four mounting screws and the panel is loose but its how to remove the cables from the panel to get it out. How hard is it then to refit the cables?

Ditto!

I've got the standard VR exhaust system on my car and just bought a couple of buffing wheels from Machine Mart. After giving the tailpipe a rub with some 120 emery and a worn plastic scouring pad I hooked the buffer up to my drill and gae it a whirl. Tailpipe looks A LOT better now and took about 5 mins. Looks like i'll be attacking all the other meatl parts now. I'm crap with uploading pics, just thought I'd let y'all know. If you're stuck for things to improve, get one of these kits and your C will love you for it. Have fun. :wink:

RW1, many thanks I'll check it with the meter.

I'm not getting any oil temp readings on the MFA. Firstly, which of the leads on the filter housing connects to the MFA and secondly are there any resistances that can be checked (to ground presumably)

I thnik the AAA is the 2.8 US version whilst the ABV is the 2.9 EU version. The AAA doesnt have a coilpack its the dizzy type (iirc). There may well be other differences too though.

RW1, thanks, will get some next week and post up the results.

g60griff, sounds like a plan. Where from? Halfrauds?

that means how many watts? 200 or so?

dazzyvr6, if the glue conducts then great, otherwise if it gets between the led leg and the connecting pin it wont work. If there is a good "metal glue" to use it would be ideal. Thanks anyway.

kevHaywire, what else would you suggest? A20 LEE, i've just got the fluxed solder but its worth trying with some fresh flux. Its the metal tabs on the sides of the holder which I'm referring to, just ni case anyone is not clear.

ok RW1, that must be it, thanks. I'll attack them again with the emery.

Yes its the tinning process that wont actually take place. You have to tin most wires etc first anyway otherwise it wont work (in my experience).

I've replaced my dash clock lights with a red led strip. Just thought I'd try soldering some spares leds I have into the holders only they just dont seem to want to! the solder just beads and rolls off. Thought it was because of the resin on the surface so gave it a good ol' scrub with emery and needle file but still no luck. Any other ways of attaching the led legs to the connector? I was thinking of putting some tiny screws in there. Any other better ideas?

nice one bcstudent, cheers for that.

I think Andi (admin) adn Guy Hartley have also doen something similar so come on lads, lets have some info then?

I've got the normal aircon setup in my C but want to change to the climatronic setup. I know a few of you have done this but what's needed and is there a general how-to? Saw some Golf stuff on ebay recently which was quite cheap. Apart from the control panel and some vent sensors would there be an awful lot more to get? Wiring will prob be a bit fiddly too, i expect. Cheers in advance

coolrado, i've got aircon in mine but what else is needed for the climatronic install? Mods, I'll start another thread on this if needed? :offtopic1:

good one, lad - if they've got any more let me know!

KARMANN, lookin good bud. You sure you mean 13 not 30? Mine will look pretty similar when finished too (except rear lights re smoked not white). Cant really afford to lower due to the deadly speed bumps in my area. Any pics of the tyre sidewalls to see the wheel/tyre profile?

Henny, stone refers to the colour, its like a very light beige/biscuit colour. I'll get some pics up this evening then.

Just to resurrect this thread, Andy how did you actually remove the control panel from the dash - I'm a bit afraid of unclipping all the directional cables and mixing them up, or worse still they fly away being in tension. Is there any way of just removing the control panel part of it and leaving the base section with the cables inside, so I can work on the dials and use your busbar method? Cheers