fla

Morning chaps, Not getting an oil temp reading on the MFA and the boots on the spade connectors on top of the oil filter look a bit ragged. I'm thinking of removing cleaning and replacing where necessary. What's the best way to reach the damn things as there is not enough space to get my hand to them? Does it mean removing the slam panel? If so, can the bonnet support arm still be kept in place? Oh and mine's a VR with aircon (not showing off, just to say its doubly cramped!) TIA

VW or any other supplier who does them more cheaply?

Cheers Asim. Do you need the caliper windback tool for this (which I dont have) - i assume the brake pads will fall out too?

How simple is it to remove the disc and are there any torque settings required?

You think that's weird you should see some of the covers from one of the bands I like called Frontline Assembly on the single called Prophecy - flippin weird, looks like a giant cockroach growing out of a blokes back....sorry mods :offtopic1:

a week??!!! blimey you guys are lucky, mine has been off the road for about 3 months now (with an occasional test drive to see if faults have been sorted), but then again i only get part of a weekend to have a play. Believe me THAT is depressing. Its nothing major, just that I'm not able to get enough time to sort it. Fantastic when it goes for a test drive. DEL VR6, enjoy your car mate, the VR is really superb.

Solitaire, ? Can I suggest a gearbox swop as per Storms option to a manual. TBH the cost of getting another auto box will be similar to doing a transplant yourself or ewven getting it done if you know a mechanic friend. I'm still looking into alternative autoboxes that can swop in as i do like mine tbh :shock: . BTW, which sensors did they say were faulty? Mike79, sorry to say mate that the autobox bills can be horrendous, hence the tip about swopping. Mine wheezes slightly from 3rd to 4th as it goes from hydraulic to mechanical, but thats not a problem and it tends to settle down after a while. Having said that I do use the gears manually quite a lot too. Did you check teh fluid level? Another thing, there is a diagnostic port (for pressure testing) on top of the box (the round connector) which can be used by a garage to check the fluid pressures on gear change.

RW1, daves16v, thanks very much - i'll have a look and see if there is anything else than can be done, only you know what other people are like, they just whack it down at full speed. Just like they pull the seat height adjustment handle to push teh seat back and you think the seat will fly off its hinges! :mad:

Dont know if anyone else has this problem but when i put either window all the way down it sort of thumps to the bottom as if it should have a cushioning pad but doesnt. Any ideas on how to sort this out at all? Can you put some rubber pads some where to cushion the travel? Thanks all

seems like no-one here? lockage gents

Chaps, dont want to hijack this one, but our offices are a unit in one of the longest and well-respected screen printers in the UK, Zip-It. I'm sure if i asked nicely they could do us a deal on the t-shirts, provided we gave them a good quantity. Print quality is absolutely superb and I've seen the number of awards they've won for the past 15 years - we were all very impressed. Any thoughts? Dont want to do Red=Fast, out of business tho...

Just thinking about when I worked in Pirelli, I used to see on occasion a nicely lowered VR, metallic purple (or thereabouts). Hadnt even discovered the forum and merely admired the VR when it was in. Anyone here and are you still in Pirelli?

Me too mate - just found one that may be worth checking if you havent already: the ducting under the dash going to the passenger side vent has a join just to the side of the headunit. This flexes and creates a hollow-type noise as if something is loose. Worth shoving some felt into there too. HTH

Yep good old standard VR problems. As above, clean out and relube ISV, clean Throttle Body and spray some carb cleaner on the vacuum hoses whilst the engine is running to check for any leaks. Take the MAF out, check th e wire and give a good spray of carb cleaner just in case its mucky. Get it on VAGCOM - Bigpants is also in the Bath area IIRC - check if he's got VAGCOM. If you dont solve it with them then drop a line to RW1 or Kevhaywire - they'll guide you further.

TBH, its just as easy spraying any wiping with WD40. You dont need to have it totally degreased to locate an oil leak.

As HEnny says use proper VAG stuff - having said that its not too pricey but the alternative from GSF is also OK. Now the dipstick is deeper in the engine bay. Looking from the front of the car, look to the right of the engine block and below the coilpack. You'll see a red looped plastic dipstick thre and its almost near the base of the chassis. The dipstick itself is quite short too. If you can see the tranny gear selection arm that is the gearbox, bolted to the side of the engine block. Check the fluid level when the car has warmed up slightly and on a flat surface of course. You canonly fill through the dipstick hole so get yourself a funnel and tube that fits and only add a small amount at a time. The whole 'box takes about 3 litres iirc, including the torque converter. Dont forget that gear changes will be a bit rough (dont know why) until the oil temp is up to normal, so dont go thrashing the b**ls off of it until then. HTH

If you like that kinda stuff, well and good - certainly some much nicer looking Cs on our forum tho

What, your mileage reducing with time VR6, ? Oh mines 50k btw.

Bruno, thanks mate, will have a lay this weeknd and get back to you. Looking in Bentley it seems there is a sequence to the flaps movement for Norm & Max operation, hence my thought that the wheeze may have been due to these flaps sticking. Its the same noise as when the engine cooling fans trip in (at 94C) although the wheeze stops as soon as the fans trip out too. Doesnt really sounds like bearings, but you never know. Incidentally, there is a thermocouple-type wire running underneath the passenger shelf to a rotary switch (potentiometer) fixed to the shelf wall. Seems to have a click-off position too. Any idea if this is also related? Will try and post some pics this evening if its not clear. Many thanks

If like me you're a bit strapped for cash you still use the Haywire method of grinding down the arm limiting lobes in the wiper arm to increase wiper pressure on the screen. Plus I'm sure Halfrauds will have some similar wiper arms soon? Anyone know of any cheaper alternatives to the Lupo ones?

DutchVR6, I would add that RW1, does ahve a huge depth of knowledge on the VR and how to get more from VAGCOM - hes certainly helped isolate and solve some awkward issues on my car. RW1, you can post that tenner now :wink:

Didnt really want to start another thread so apologies if this is too tangential - i need to take the aircon blower out to check the diverters as there is a continuous wheeze when putting the aircon on, as if the diverter is trying to move but cant. Bruno, Andy Brookes, anything you could advise here and would i need to get it regassed ie will removing the blower open the refrigerant circuit? TIA

Green valver with nice 17" rims this afternoon (K-plate iirc) in Park Royal at about 2pm. Looks like one in a sig cant remember who, tho.

Be careful with tranny fluid levels as too much fluid will create too much pressure in the box causing strange changes. The level can be a bit fiddly to check though as the min/max space is very narrow. Have a look at the colour too. Having said that, if it was replaced only recently it should still be under warranty.

Asim mate,just superb. Many can only dream of a finish like that. A real shame its going- if I had some cash I'd love to buy it, but Her Majesty might just remove me from the house and park me in the garage.