fla

Nah mate, use the Haywire method - means you sit on the end of the seat with your head near the gearstick for viewing. No more shakes and a LOT more comfortable!

Wouldnt this run the risk of the block going through the floor? Sorry to make a meal of this, i'm sure its very simple. I havent got round to making any ramp extensions so i can simply drive the car up them, so i make do with some planks I can drive onto for clearance, which doesnt give a lot of room. Just bought a bottle jack from Lidl for a fiver so this will get some use too - as long as i know where to site it. RW1, what do you think of the suggestion to jack the front up from the cross-member (ref biggerbigneil, )?

Yeah G60Renshaw's is also OEM+ IMHO as he retains a lot of the civility of the C without overt bling and major change, also a fine motor. Having said that, i would not include teh tt dash as OEM - even though i love it and i will also do the same when I have some more time & money. OEM+ is an update or tweak of the original, which does not include major body or engine mods, eg a vsr would be OEM+ but a supercharger would not qualify.

Yup, OEM+ all the way. Embodied perfectly by MoonlightVR and OSV, not to say anyone elses is worse, just that these two are truly superb.

To be fair to Lee, there are a lot of things he's done himself. Also as Henny rightly points out, if you use a car its BOUND to get a bit mucky, that life, unless our roads are washed and scrubbed like the paintwork on our Cs. So lets just enjoy the efforts (be that time and/or money) that people put into their cars - there's always a positive angle to be taken if you want to take it. And conversely, you can take a negative angle on anything you like. But, true enough, if a car is as high profile as Lees, it will of course attract negative comment from some quarters. You would never say that any building no matter how well restored is perfect, there will always be something that doesnt appeal so somebody. Cant please everyone all of the time, but who cares, if you're happy with it. So lets just admire it for the results not the route to getting there, if its not hard graft.

RW1, perfect as usual. Just one step back, where would you suggest teh trolley jack goes to raise the car in teh first place, again for each of front, back and side lifting? Thanks.

RW1, not quite sure where you're referring too, maybe thats just me. Any pics for reference? I've got a basic trolley jack from Argos so its not too long to go right up to the middle of the chassis. Basically, any pointers for lifting either the front or rear of the car, as well as each side. Currently using thick chipboard planks to give some ground clearance before fiddling under the car, but of course not ideal when you need more space! Many thanks

Clean out the ISV - soemtimes the flap sticks, and I dont think it is carried out under a service. Its a common VR problem.

Nah, want to get a new one from GPC and he says he needs the part number. Not really sure about used ones TBH, as its impossible to gauge the condition, and he (bloke on ebay) will probably be selling his old one anyway. You got the number then Matt?

Now why didnt I think of that. Thanks chaps. Will have a go this weekend - somewhere below the front engine mount should be tough enough i guess? Plus it will keep the weight nicely balanced so i can get the axle stands under it more easily.

Quick one guys, Anyone got the p/n for the crank position sensor? Thanks

Chaps, Just jacked the car up from the normal front jacking point only to find that the long channel wanted to bend outwards slightly. Brought the car down and used a piece of wood on top of the jack seat, but this wanted to press in underside of the floor. Whats the best best to use for placing on top of the trolley jack before lifting? Ideally something with the same slot-type profile as the scissor jack supplied. Thanks and hope everyone is enjoying the slightly cooler weather.

SteveRobb, As above Storm, is truly tyour man here and his report is very comprehensive. I had planned to do the swop this summer too but other commitments have put it on the back burner. Plus I'm beginning to enjoy the ease of driving, plus you get a fantastic kick when you kickdown and if you drive sensibly, mpg shouldnt really suffer. The thing i am looking into is if another autobox will fit in as the 096 is not the smoothest of boxes and the gearing from 3rd to 4th is wrong.

Dunno mate only had an auto C. Filter is inside the sump guard - its a black plastic cover with a slight curve at the front. There is a small drain screw you will also seeon the base which you use to drain teh first load of tranny fluid. Then remove the sump guard. When this is off you can remove the filter - it will look like a brownish cover. Theres a link to show you how to do this on the Vortex, but it quite straightforward, no magic in it at all. The only thing is you wont be able to drain the torque converter hence it is useful to refill, drain again and then refill. Unless you take it to a garage who will be able to pump it out for you. Shouldnt be more than about £40 tho. HTH

Kev? As I've already bought a mocal is it possible to get the other parts separately on this GB? Thanks.

bigpants baby, when was the fluid and filter last changed? If never, when you open it up the filter will likely be choked. About £20 from VW. Also, make sure you clean out the sump and pan and carefully wipe the solenoid base. Then refill and run for a couple of hundred miles, drain the fluid again and refill and you my find the gearbox has settled. I cant remember if the solenoids are replaceable individually tho.

Dark blue Corrado in Park Royal near Asda this afternoon 4pm. Slammed. Looked smart.

Thanks for the advice borderair, PM sent.

borderair, just to bring this one up again, how much is this tubing? I've got some foam tubing over the pipes at present and its become a bit crumbly. Another thing, the pipe obscure the connector for the Crank sensor plus others. My system needs regassing so i'd like to remove the pipes temporarily in orderto gain access to the connectors and other bits under it. What would you advise here re pipe removal, moisture ingress and use of the car with the pipes disconnected? Thanks

Stormin Dave, yes mate I taped up the inner seal with some fabric tape in an attempt to control a VERY small drip i thought was coming through the door. Maybe that's it - not enough air passing though the webbing. May be worth just getting some new one from VW. True enough, i asked my father to drive whilst i stuck my head around the door all over the place. Sure must have looked weird to onlookers though! Thanks

G60Dub, you just wanted to show off you engine bay! Very nice though, well done m8. And yes, I am jealous.

Hi all, This is confusing - driving along at any speed over 50, there is a lot of wind noise from what seems to be the top of the passenger door. The seal looks intact all around, the door sits in it nicely, there are no obvious protrusions that would disrupt the flow of air. In fact I cant really locate the source of it as there is no draft in the cabin, just a lot of noise. Okay, "lot" is exaggerating but I'm a bit paranoid about getting rid of cabin rattles and car/road noise. I'm thinking it might not even be the door, more like air flowing under the bonnet blowing across some space there? But then if that were the case, would that not mean it would be heard lower down or something? Any ideas or things to check? Thanks

Mine's just the heat exchanger plus two 8 inch hoses and some mounting screws off ebay, so i need all the other parts. How did you go about fitting it then Vento_VR6,? I'd be grateful for a few guidelines, although as you mention i can't see it being too complex.

OK thanks for that. Presumably Stealth will have all these items then, or are they available elsewhere?

dav, many thanks for the offer - I'll probably need to take you up on that soon. Whereabouts are you based?