fla

theres a cover on ebay for about £15 iirc

looks like an auto starter from the shorter spindle

sorry to digress, but is there any solution to worn flocking on this piece? I was thinking of using some Tesa loom tape but i guess this would wear through in no time..

You've done well with revamping the system Cressa. If you wouldnt mind posting up the part numbers that would be useful. I'm planning to refurb mine too - might need to replace the condenser at the front as a lot of the fins have corroded away. I've got a new old stock one for a Polo which i was thinking of adapting but might just be easier to do a like-for-like swop.

absolutely superb development there Sean, credit to your efforts and attention to details. I know the feeling of nerves - i get it every time i've done some engine mods or the car has been standing after its SORN period is over...but i have no doubt yours will be fine, its practically a better-than-new car in many areas

This. No. 109. I would replace that first before doing anything else. It wont come up in a scan either.

You can repair it from the back with a soldering iron and some stainless steel mesh. I've also used copper wire melted across cracks and splits If you're really stuck you can slice off concealed parts of the plastic and melt them into and onto the crack. I think i have some pics of my repair. I'll try and dig them out and post up

I think it just clips on to the side. I'll see if I've got a pic somewhere..

fitted! Pics were a great help. It slots in at the top in the side opening of the fuse bracket and towards the front on the pedal box lip edge. Its not a super tight fit so it it rattles around i'll put some felt padding in there.

Thanks Martin. So does it slot on the pedal box or elsewhere? Not a problem if you cant picture, i can just about see where it sits. I've been trying to fit it to the side of the fuse box but couldn't find anything to clip it to! Hasan

Appreciated, thanks

I removed this from my fuse box about 15 years ago and its been sitting on the shelf since then. I cant work out how exactly it goes back on, not even sure where! Edit: part number 192 971 825 This part: https://www.google.com/search?q=192971825&client=tablet-android-google&prmd=mvin&sxsrf=ALeKk02JdiXcLHcKK_jwDofjMu01Y-GHtg:1589714303782&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjQ3Pui47rpAhX6SxUIHYUfAa0Q_AUoA3oECAsQAw&biw=600&bih=960&dpr=2#imgrc=rHqzgy8uzWH8tM

Well i'm back on this thread again! Goes to show my lack of ICE knowledge... Anyway, in the interest of saving space i have removed the bass tube and wired the amp to the crossovers and then to the front speakers. The rears are direct to the head unit. So now with regards to setting up the door components and tweeters, what details do i need to dig out in terms of high pass and low pass filters? What about setting up the amp? The amp is a kenwood kac ps100. Trying to avoid blowing the speakers but i'd like some warm bass

Have you had it scanned for errors? Perhaps you can post them up and we can go from there. One of the issues can be the valve block sticking. It may just be you need to flush it again a few times.

I've got a set of Big Red's rear caliper seals NOS for standard rears if thats of any use? Pack is tatty though

Wow that looks bad! Hope mines not going to turn out like that... Are all the trims still available? Ideally i would want to replace them all with the new windscreen. I had a look in Bentley and the profile should be just a bead of seal under the windscreen allowing a lip to be present so the outer trim can 'clip' under it with an interference fit around the frame. Mine seems to be full of black silicone. Must have been replaced prior to 2004 when i bought my car so either its completely rusted senseless or its hopefully ok for a few months

Thanks guys. I'll cut off that loose bit in the meantime and fit the trim back. After the lockdown I'll get it into the bodyshop

Fed up with the two corners flapping around so decided to pull off the outer trim. Looks like its been filled with sealant or some filler pieces. Is that long piece on the side needed or can it be cut off? Also, the top is really full of sealant. How could tjis ne removed safely without damaging the paint? There was some rust in the side channel which i scraped off and then painted with some kurust Ive sliced off some of the base of that filler piece that looks like its covered in rust and almost dissolved away.

Yes certainly looks like it. Great car, had 263s and was a really good drive

I removed all the redundant wires from the obd2 loom but wish I'd left a few as 'spares' - saves adding new ones which i need now. Just a thought before you wrap everything up

Hope these are of help Aircon wiring diagram diavia.pdf T42 connector pinouts.pdf T42 connector pinouts.xlsx

Martin? Yours doesn't have aircon does it? I seem to remember having an issue with mine working out the signal wiring which went through a red connector. I'll check my notes again although i also used notes from Tony.

here you go:

Thats the best way to do it with the extra stud. Fitting and lining up the handbrake is a bit fiddly but it certainly does feel far better than the original. Great work there! I had to 'persuade' mine to line up...a 4lb hammer helps here! That said it rubs against the lower cover a little which needs cutting away. It also rubs on the inside panels of the top cover which i left off. Couldn't think of a good solution that didnt involve trimming that down too. I had some pics in my build thread (which are sadly no longer there), but happy to post up again if anyone needs them.

A couple of small jobs - rear c panel support pin snapped off 10 years ago! Still kept hold of it and refitted by using a self tapping bolt 19mm in length. Cut the head off and screwed one end into the panel and then the pin tightened on top. Repaired some splits using mesh and a soldering iron to heat. Put a layer of damplifier on the headliner and then covered with felt - felt is hard to cut neatly!