Rustynuts

Replied to your pm, just checking it is the right part, ie the one that bolts to the gearbox, but yeah will send paypal money

Have a look at my Sig for engine spec, eventually I want to drop a big valve head on it. The front mount intercooler is a Merc sprinter job, rally u bend then I have used silicon hoses. The only custom piece I needed was to get a steel pipe reducer made to connect up to the g60 golf plastic paperwork I bought, this is ideal as turning it about 90 degrees takes the paperwork in the right direction.

Do it for £30 delivered and you have a deal.

Cool good work, give me a shout if you have further issues as I have done this conversion

As the title please, to replace mine that has one of the shift arms snapped

Haha. Bloody phone and predictive typing. Will edit

First of all you need a heavy duty press to get the bearing out. Sounds like your outer cv spine has rusted itself into place, you may be able to get the lot pressed outo

I second footman James when I last used them. They used to offer to over 25s only so worth a call

The biggest issue with cars of this age is rust, it seems that corrados were given great protection at the factory though. My experience sees the rear brake lines as the worst regular rust related fail. Everything else can be sorted relativily easily and cheaply

Mine had the Stealth treatment 2k ago and is showing similar figures so yours is healthy

Dunno the name, but I once had a 16v with some and they were cheap rubbish

Are all your locks flushed? How about getting in through the boot, been there done that! :roll:

..and if you want to do it properly you can buy seal removers.

Might be worth doing a search on this, been many a thread on this down the years

I never said there bits are made by GM, just shared, like you say bosch produce a lot of stuff for modern management systems. Would love a gtv v6, how does it compare to a vr?

Alfa's share a lot of parts with GM. What Alfa you got, you can see what I am running in my sig, love it.

Certainly I would advise having a go. Done a couple myself and really enjoyed the process. Get yourself a nice clean workspace and lay out everything methodically. The most important thing is to take your time, get your torques right, check them and check again and make sure everything is lubed up, a small oil gun is very useful for this. It enjoyed it, would do it again but the Mrs won't let me use the kitchen again! :norty:

This is a tough one really, perhaps it is time that the forum had a single trusted source for parts, this is not to replace the for sale section but more a recognised specialist that knows their stuff ( I think John fits this catagory but as more of an engine specialist it would seem) I have been thinking of my own business ideas for a while now, and have been tempted with the idea of being a Corrado specialist breaker and car sales, however I also am aware that there is a big difference between doing a bit on the side vs full time with premises etc. There is a market out there I am sure, but not quite yet I feel as the rarity of parts needs to go up so that market values go up (think air cooled Type 2's etc)

I have them come and go, just had my 1.8T go the other day and that has stayed in Worcs. Possibly going to get a Vr6 off another Worc bod, not sure just at the moment but without a doubt I will have another one at some point.

Get the right sized socket on there, put the allen key through the middle and clamp the socket with a good set of mole grips. This should at least get the nut reasonably tight. You might need to find someone with an airgun to do it up dead tight.

Just to be clear on the rev counter wiring, you need to splice the new wire into the green wire, if you just cut the green wire your car won't run as the ECU needs the feed from the coil. I found this out today when I wired mine up.

That's the idea, not done it yet myself but that is what I understand is true. On an 8v Golf the wire is red and black and does not go through the ECU. Not sure about your water level light, if it is plugged in it may be that the sensor is foobard, as I used the original loom at this point.

the old wire goes through the ecu and the signal changes. Hence why it wont work.

You got it.

you will have to find the wire, it is part of the engine loom. Same colour as it is where it connects to the coil. Just cut it at the fusebox end, and crimp a new wire that goes direct to the coil. Simples. I am not sure about your servo pipe connection, its not the normal place, it might work but you would be better off having it where mine is as that is factory position.