Rustynuts

The green wire goes into the back of the fuse box in the engine wiring loom. Not sure which plug it is in, got to do this myself still, got used to driving without the rev counter though! Vac hose for brake servo comes off the front of the air inlet manifold

rev counter wont work until you wire it up direct to the coil. At the mo it feeds through if ecu. Look at the green wire on the coil, then find the wire at the back of the fuse box. Basically take a wire direct from if coil to the fuse box. Vac hose wise look on the bulk head side of the throttle body to see the two nipples

my charger had been rebuilt, used for 2000 miles then sat for probably up to 2 years. Initially i had the same problem but having it run it for a bit the seals seem to have run back in. Dont panic just yet, give it a good 500 very easy miles and see if it improves keeping an eye on your oil levels.

also if it is running lumpy, check the vac hoses. Have you checked the 1m vac hose to the ecu? Is it on the right nipple on the throttle? Should be mounted to the one that is after the throttle butterfly so that it measures the boost the engine is getting.

In the fuel tank, there is an access hole under the rear seats, 3 screws secure a plate

Well you can check whether it is your wiring or the relay by bridging the contacts in your fuse box. If you pull the relay out you will see 2 large spades. Get a bit of wire and bridge the 2 slots in the fuse box where those spades go. If it runs the pump it is the relay thats fooked, if it does not then your wiring is in question. As for running lumpy, you need to check your lift pump is running too. That is where I would start.

Got it from here - ebay

No live suggests that the fuel pump relay is kaput, or your wiring conversion has not covered the fuel pump. Did you change the fuel pump wiring? As for lumpy, that will be a number of things, did you change the timing belt, change any of the sensors, did you see engine running before conversion? The list is a little endless on this one. You need to get the car drivable and see how it goes. When I did mine it started, revved OK but when I drove it, it was as flat as a fart. I changed the lambda as it was a universal one. Once I had the bosch one installed it was fine.

Sounds like your main pump is goosed. Before assuming this though check you are getting voltage at the pump, could also be the connections are mega corroded.

not all from the same chip im affraid , they will fit you a differant map for standard , smaller pulley and so on the chip wont cater for all the way from no boost to highly modded , you need the correct one to suit your mods I am having one supplied that will take into account I want to upgrade to a big valve head at a later date, this is catered for by the map umbrella. This is what the standard factory map does and allows for cars to run on atmosphere all the way up to smaller pulleys (I know, my G60 currently has a 68mm pulley on standard map, and it copes although I know it is not ideal and hence I am not thraping the car about). I believe that SNS retain this matrix and extend the top end to cope with much higher boost. The main issue on Corrados is the green injectors running at max duty at 1 bar. Which is why I am swapping to red tops. I understand that the maps are tweaked to get the best out of your spec, but there are certainly situations where these maps cope with these upgrades, that is for the owner of the map to find out from the company that mapped it. What you can't do of course is to swap in red tops and expect it to run right, as it won't. This is as I understand it, if someone wants to put me right please go ahead, I am always interested in learning more. 8)

What age car is it, does it have the twin fuel pump set up, ie lift pump and under body pump, or is it the later type where it is just the in tank pump?

no not at all, can by fine tuned with the co pot anyway. Should be around 500 ohms but nothing to stop you fine tuning if req'd. The map will compensate anyway.

dont know. Might be as well opening the ecu and see what the chip says on it. It may well say sns and in that case you should be ok. You might as well get a ported head, does improve the restricted 8v head and whilst you have the chance i would jump to it.

Yeah I noticed that when I trial fitted the sandwich plate when building the car up. Went for the initial easy option and left it standard.

Don't dismiss the the port and polish route, reason being is that most G60 maps have a variable umbrella that allows for variances in day to day running not to mention they can cope with no boost all they way through to high boost of a modded charger. Check with G-werks about your map. Was it bespoke or did they just fit a chip? I have a feeling that the chips originate from SNS. Anyway, even if you can't use a ported head on your map (which I would be very surprised at) you can now order SNS chips on ebay and deal direct with Bilal, they cost £75 which is a bloody bargain and hence why I have just ordered one.

er dont know yet. Fan is on switch but car has only been back on the road a month so dont know how is is going to react in the summer. Got a mocal oil cooler to go on that should help keep oil temp down a bit.

Yes just went out with torch to look. Not got relay 31. Only got the relay holder for fuse 90. Might plug it on one day and see if it actually works. IIRC though from my old Corrado, it only seemed to activate in the summer, I know this mainly as it used to set the car alarm off :lol:

ok mate wot feul pump r u running? Running a standard 8v digifant fuel pump. As I understand it a healthy digi fuel pump will provide enough fuel and pressure when running 3 bar. I believe they are designed to push about 4 bar anyway. Mine has been on the car for at least 90,000 miles, may even be the original as the car approaches 200,000 miles so it it possible that it may not be able to cope at some point. In which case it could get upped to a 16v one.

It's not ideal. Have you checked your oil level?

Fuel pump should prime when ignition goes on, just briefly and then go off again. Semi synth is fine for G60's and your oil filter should have a nut on the end, the normal Gti ones don't. Not had a look for this relay yet. Will let you know

Engine is breathing very heavily into the air intake system. If you open your airbox you will see it will be soaked in oil. Have you done an oil change recently, if you have over filled it will breath oil into the air system.

It could have been a lot worse. Also it's origins are the VR6 so that's cool too.

Not sure if mine has the 31 relay on it, don't think so, did not take too much notice. Anyway I am running my rad fan on a switch so it would make no difference if I did. Oil wise - 10w40 semi synth is the tuff to use. Either Quantum or the stuff GSF now sell will be fine. Points to check. Make sure you have the right oil filter, it is G60 specific.

With regards to you hex bolt problems, your top bolt needs either a torx or spline tool hammering into it, have you got a set of either, don't ask me size though as I just use my selection and find one to suit. The bottom bolt is easy enough to get to if you use an old fashion allen key. I just hope that is not rounded as it will be a front panel off job then.

I would not worry too much about this at the moment. You may want to use it but get the car running before worrying about this