Rustynuts

Still got to do my FPR, but did do the MAF, no difference. This time of year is so pants, when I get home it is to dark, cold or wet to do anything. Anyway off to a mates garage tomorrow where VAGCOM comes into play

Right, well I needed to change the throttle, that was clear as the TPS was cracked and I also found that the original was missing it's throttle spring loaded return stop was missing. The result, well a car that does not occasionally hunt, any low end judder has also gone. However, It still hesitates a bit on acceleration, so there is something else still to do. Off to see a mate on Sunday that has a whole ruck of OBD1 gear for sale so hopefully some of the simple swap stuff will sort it. Going to try the FPR, another MAF, and even an ECU. Must check the earths though, still not done that.

I have flushed a coolant system before due to oil contamination from a broken oil cooler and I have used caustic soda. This will get your system as clean as it can be. But word of warning, this stuff is corrosive so wear gloves and do not run car with caustic soda in the system. In fact I would not leave it longer that 10 - 15 mins in the system as it chemically reacts with alloy. So you don't want to cause yourself any probs. You def wont have any rust in the system after this clean out

Right well car now runs to temp. But still got hesitation: I am suspecting that the TPS is suspect as it basically gets confused. Sometimes goes likes a bastard, but seems slow to respond to open throttle. So far last owner swapped: Fuel pump and filter Lambda MAF leads, plugs, cap and rotor arm I have swapped: Blue sender Next plan is to swap the throttle body and TPS. I will also check earth connections in engine bay. Failing this it could only be FPR and coil. I figure it can't be timing because I don't really get a consistant hesitancy, when driving on part throttle and then booting it, car will respond slowly but will go eventually. Whilst going up gears though having finally got a response it will fly. I also get a little bit of low end rev judder. All this makes me conclude the TPS. Ah well - one on order so will soon see.

Sorry been distracted with the VR I just bought that is not running right: Had a look at your description, then looked at the manual. Not really getting what you are saying. The main reason is that your plug colours would result in large gaps in the back of the fusebox. It might be best to buy the manual. They are expensive new @ about £80 but worth it. I got mine free with a car but smugness is not required!! :nono:

Does the car drive better on the road? The reason I ask is that sometimes a rolling road cannot give a real road result. Are they running a good enough fan for example? If it is your car I would move away from your assumed problem with the manifold. I would guess that you have a more basic problem that is not throwing up any fault codes. Is it as simple as your timing being slightly out?

Cheers for the advise, yeah done a Golf VR stat, quite easy to get to in terms of location, quite a fiddle to get at the allan key bolts. Will pick up a stat at the weekend. Idle is quite good, not lumpy and generally smooth, so maybe not the MAF

Water temps on the move don't even register on the guage, oil temps about 88 on the motorway. This is about 10 degrees down on what I would expect. Anyway when in traffic it rises up to the 90 mark and fans kick in. I have read the VR cooling guide and suspect that the thermostat is stuck open. I also have hesitation, it seems to be flat between 3500 and 4500 rpm, after that it goes beserk! I am guessing that the cool running is not helping things and that it is running in warm up mode. However, having sat to let it warm up and then see if the hesitation clears, it does not suggesting something else (I guess MAF). Has anyone experienced this combination of issues before, or can shed some light?

Also the plastic baffle box acts as a silencer, so you will get more charger noise with the RSR = :D

i will have to have a good look at my book. Failing that i will try and scan the info, it might not work thoug as the book is thick

I forgot, I have had another 2 G60's :lol:

2.0 Tdi Leon Sport, company car. Very good car, especially after the remap. Engine noise is not the best though :lol: Still got two Golfs, my Mk2 I have had 9 years now and has a little bit of Corrado in it now, namely a G60 engine :D. Plus my Gti Cab, what a great summer car. I have had 3 x G60's (broken 2 due to one being crashed into and the other was bought as a breaker for my Mk2) 1 x 1.8 16v that I rebuilt the engine on, 1 x 2.0l 16v that I bought to trade and also 2 x VR6 again for the same reasons. I will prob have more, especially if my little venture really takes off. I love Corrados and I find it hard not having one about.

I will find out soon enough, will be giving my local friendly VW stealer a call. O - ring / seal I am sure they will understand, I might even call it a rubber ring just for a laugh :lol:

Anyone know if it is still available from VW, or is there another option

Yeah go on then, post up you remaining wires and I will have a look to see.

Ah, did not realise you were talking about an early car. Right, yes you need to swap the loom for the lights, or adapt you current loom with later connector blocks for the fuse box

Yeah G60 into a G reg Mk2. Just leave your light loom original golf, you don't need to touch this. Still need to get location of the plugs you need to remove and replace with the G60 engine loom. I live in Worcs mate - Kidderminster.

I have just done this conversion. You only need to remove the engine loom, that is 3 plugs. I will have to try and find you the location of these from my Bentley Manual. It is just plug and play, very easy on the late fuse box.

Please be very careful, I would advise not driving the car until it is sorted, if it is the earths you could end up blowing your ECU, that is how important these earth straps are.

Sounds to me like the thermostat is not opening, you will also not get any heat as there are probably bypass valves fitted into your heater matrix pipes that will be shutting due to excess pressure, and may even be totally shot.

the main difference is that corrado engines run the smaller green injectors, the golf and rallyes run grey injectors with higher capacity. Put a corrado ecu on a golf and it will get too much fuel, run a golf ecu on a corrado and it will run lean. Think the simple answer is just to swap the chips over. Though might not be that simple.

The head bolts are 12mm (If I remember rightly) spline key fitments. You are likely to need a breaker bar to get these undone, and a torque wrench to do them back up (ensuring you use new head bolts as they are the stretch variety)

G60 management is designed to run rich when sensors are down however if ecu is not reading boost levels correctly it could be running very lean. Check your metre long vac hope that runs from your throttle body to ecu. Check it is dead on 1m and that there are no breaks to it

This does sound very like running with the vac hose to ECU either disconnected or on the wrong nipple to the throttle body.

You have to bear in mind if you buy a good quality rebuild kit it will be a good £200. Then you have to pay labour. I may be wrong, but is not the basic rebuild likely to cost about £350 from a specialist? You won't be paying much less than that anyway.