Rustynuts

If it's not the co pot it could be the lambda sensor kaput, or bad earth, the usual G60 things for it to run rich really. Doubt it will be the chip if it has been designed to run that spec, but I guess check the usual suspects first before blaming it on the chip.

Was the chip designed to run 440cc injectors? If not it is overfueling and therefore too much co

I presume from the battery and into the car through the bulk head? If so there are plenty of grommits you can poke a hole in and feed into the car that way.

There used to be Silver Mk1 doing the rounds, stripped out for sprinting that supposedly had 274 bhp. Can't remember the exact spec of the bottom end, but was running a Eurospec head and heavily ported charger.

Haha yes, the sig needs sorting which I will do in a min. I always knew I would continue with it, almost always I kept thinking of the 1.8T route when things were going wrong, but I wanted the challange of the engine rebuild and also the thought that I am doing something a little different to the norm. Dave, yeah I know Steve AKA Veedubnutz, I am sure he will be at the next meet on the 3rd Weds of the month at Berkley Arms. I may be there but have started going to the meet at the Toys R Us carpark at Oldbury which is also pretty good. I will be along at some point I am sure, I may do 2 in one night :lol:

I will go onto Club Gti when it is running really well, and more to the point running better bhp for the mods vs K-Jet. I suppose you are always going to get the 'why did VW not do it questions'? My theory is down to the fact it prob cost a lot to change over the 8v to digi, in the process they prob thought that the Mk2 was coming to an end and therefore no point changing the 16v from K-Jet. Seeing the Mk3 was moved onto Digi 3 that would make sense. My intention is to throw on an airmass meter from a 3.5l 6 cyl BMW with cone filter at some point and then I will get it rolling road remapped. Dave, yeah no worries, once I got it all running how I want I will show you how I did it. I don't know if you heard of the Rubbadubz? Anyway I could bring it along to one of their meets, I don't activily get involved much anymore but will be wanting to show them my car as they know it well from the past. What I would say is that another way round this would be to run ABF spec loom, injectors and manifold, it is more complicated that Digi 2 and therefore needs a lambda probe, but still should be easy enough to convert KR 16v and 9a 16v's

I would not drive it, the oil cooler will steadily get worse and pump all your oil into the water system.

Its prob the very basic diagnostic plugs that G60's have.

Right well I wanted to do a bit of trumpet blowing somewhere, so why not the good old Corrado forum since this is where I started the idea 2 years ago. I now have a Mk2 running a 2.0l 16v on digi 2. It seems to run OK though needs setting up and running in. Originally I got it working but found the engine to be knocking to hell. Whoever had rebuilt the engine must have read the 'How to Rebuild Engines by Stevie Wonder' book. The crank had been ground (but seemingly only one of the journals :cuckoo: ), the main caps had been put back in the wrong order( 54321 and not 12345 - how the hell do you get that wrong?) and basically two of the rods replaced. So put another crank in, changed all the bearings and whacked it all together. After a bit of rubbicks engine shenanigans I got it turning by hand and thought well lets give it a try. Originally got it running Oct last year but decided that I would leave the car in the garage until now. Got it out last sat, sorted a couple of issues and am now booking in for MOT. A mate following me says it pops out flames from the exhaust so perhaps the timing is out as it does not run rich. Anyway here some pics: Next plan will be to run it in getting it to run as well as possible and then off to my mate at Performance Torque for a remap. Hoping to see 180 bhp out the old girl

Seat 2.0l Tdi Leon - company motor This is my most recent toy My long termer - 7 years and now with 2.0l 16v engine running on digifant, shortly coming out of the garage for MOT and running in. Pic mid project:

I would suggest you need to change you leads, you might have one that is breaking down, when it warms up the tolerances reduce meaning that it runs. It is probable that it will get worse with time. While you are at it change the dizzy cap, rotor and spark plugs and that will cover all ignition bases. The idle issue is classic Idle Stabilisation Valve (ISV) problems. They can get clogged up with oil mist, take it off and clean it with carb cleaner, or immerse it in petrol. Stick it back on and see how it is. If this does not fix it may be new ISV time but don't do that until you have the car set up properly first to eliminate potential low idle.

I have just bought a Ford Cosworth 2wd spec FMIC that are going cheap on ebay. Now Ok it is not as big as the Rallye ones but is a bit deeper. Now that may not be ideal but offering it up to the bumper it is going to fit in the number plate apperture. This means I can have it exposed to the air, nothing to get in the way and therefore good airflow. I expect to see good gains from this, just need to work out the piping, which should not be too bad seeing that you get a nicely angled outlet to play with.

Just make sure that you have put the vacuum pipes back onto the throttle body correctly. If in doubt swap them over and see if it makes a difference. The one that runs to the ECU needs to be on the (as you look at it from the front) left hand side of the butterflys, so it measures boost as the throttle opens. The other side is a permenant boost that runs to the CO pot.

Karl, I tell you what I would do mate after today, try and find a standard chip to plug into you ECU and then pop up to Wills for another run. At least that will isolate whether it is the map or the ECU itself

No ideas, but I do have a full set up of wiring loom, ECU and metering head sitting in the back of my Mk2 Golf and won't be used for the 2.0l engine conversion. PM me if you want any of it.

Right update, not a lot happened for a while. However, now going to get it MOT'd and on the road, now the Red Corrado is gone I am insuring this one and ready for some running in action. Still not sure if I am going to track it, prob wont be quick enough for my liking, but then again the MK2 is miles away from being done so perhaps short term it will be the option

KHURRADO, sorry but I have lost patience with you. Early Feb I sent a payment for a door handle, it took at least a month for it to be sent. When it arrived sometime in mid March, he had sent the wrong side. Then basically all I have had is a load of BullSh1T saying how poor he is and that he can't refund 30 quid. Well in mid may 3 months on from the start of the whole saga, I have put an end to it by selling it on to someone who really needed one. I did not advertise it, just someone posted a wanted advert. So to all, deal with Khurrado and expect excuses and very delayed action.

I would say that you will be going to a lot of effort for an engine that might be no better than yours. Did you ever get the current engine set up properly after install, it is poss timing is a bit out and fueling needs correcting.

Yeah, went a bit back. Nearly there, just need to reconnect drive shafts, put front end back on and sort a couple of little niggles.

This could be one of numerous possibilities. First do the sump gasket, make sure you do not over torque the sump bolts. If this does not solve your problem, I would suggest it could well be the crank seal on the gearbox side, this will be an arse as it's a gearbox off job. Last option is that the gearbox itself could be leaking, this could well be from the main shaft seal. Though this would contaminate your clutch too and cause slipping

Not sure yet, just about to have a play now and see if bleeding or anything else is going to help. Just so you know, i only removed cylinder from the gearbox and not disconnected the system.

Well there is def a plate to push against as i can feel it with my finger. I am thinking i try and bleed it and then see if it works. They are not too expensive these slave cylinders at about 40 quid from GSF so it is not too bad i suppose.

Update, engine back in and running, seem to have messed up the cambelt tensioner though as it is making a god awful racket. Also seems I have somehow broken the hydraulic clutch, see drivetrain section for that one. So hopefully once got those things sorted it will soon be back on the road

Just done an engine rebuild, has been going well and it is back in car and running. Now got a problem, have reconnected the clutch slave cylinder to the gearbox and seem to have lost pressure. I made sure the new clutch kit matched the old so can only think this must be a failure in the clutch hydraulics. Anyone ever experienced something similar? It did have quite a low bitepoint prior to engine work, now it has no pedal pressure at all! There seems to be no leaks from the slave cylinder.

Thanks fella