Rustynuts

Is that 14 mpg according to MFA or is that calculated mileage per tank of fuel?

Before you do anything make sure that the 1m vac pipe is connected to the right lug of the throttle body, they other one goes to the CO pot if i remember rightly. Anyway, just swap them over and see if that sorts out the idling probs. The reason it would run so bad in this form is due to the two connections being different sides of the thottle butterflies. If you have the 1m to ecu vac pipe on the wrong side it reads boost all of the time and therefore the ecu creates overfueling.

No wonder they have to sell the cars for so much, just to cover the warranty work they have to do. Even though they are just down the road from me I have never been to see what cars they got. Prob something to do with not having the cash to spend.

Does that 3mm really make such a big difference? The standard pulley being 78mm, so going down to 68mm usually only gives about 25 bhp over standard (as a standalone mod) So another 3mm surely only gives a max of 5 -10 bhp surely? However, i guess through the revs you will notice the difference. Also i guess stopping the boost leak that the ISV is designed to produce would also benefit.

How good are your tyres? Have you got coilies so you can jack up the back a bit, can you sabatage his car, all would help a bit!

Yeah thats it, bleeds into the boost return. I think the reroute returns it into the boost intake pipe, thus retaining pressure

Well yeah they should, especially as the Digi 2 is simpler than Digi 1. Perhaps a job for Bilal (Dubcharged)?

Yeah def a lot involved with Megasquirt and maybe a bit too much to do for me at this stage. Perhaps after i have got the car up and running for a while I could swap later. I have got to run in the bottom end so could do with something I don't need to map majorly to get running. Digi should be able to get it running and then maybe get a map after a couple of thousand miles. Think its a job for SNS?

I am getting some grief over on el Club Gti forum about this subject. The usual Digi is rubbish and it will never work brigade. I would love to run Megasquirt but my technical knowledge really is rubbish so it scares the hell out of me. I suppose it is worth a crack, I mean if it does not work I will have only bought one thing - the fuel rail, which i could then sell onto someone doing a 16v G60 conversion

In that country its 'hell mate make it work, its simple' In this country its: 'simply mate to make that work its going to be hell'

Don't go on the Club Gti Forum, they generally bow down to K-Jet for some reason. I am going to give it a try, might as well seeing that the Yanks usually do things before us

Sounds like a good plan, I have not heard of many doing this conversion unless they are doing a G60 16v conversion

I don't think K-Jet is that bad really, the throttle response is much better than that of Digi. Having said that I would think that Digi will be more reliable and not need tuning up so often. I reckon this thread is turning into the digifant conversion thread

For a normally aspirated motor Digi 2 is fine. Basically on Digi 2 you have the air mass indicator (MAF) which does the job of reading the airflow. On Digi 1 this is replaced with the CO Pot that effectivily reads the temp of the air (Crucial due to compression by charger) and the boost pressure is read by the 1m hose to the ECU. One problem i see of using Digifant is the lowering of the rev limiter. Could be sorted with a remap i suppose For more general Digi info have a read of this: http://www.members.tripod.com/~fuelie/whatis.htm

Well yeah, Digi 1 has the CO Pot, boost value and Lambda sensors to run the supercharged G60 whereas Digi 2 basically runs off throttle position vs airflow vs water temp without all the extra gubbins. Or are you going to tell me something thats more complicated, lol

You meant this one? Actually the initial scan of this shows that it is actually pretty easy really. Has to be better than running KE-Motronic and prefer not to be using a retro fitted lambda sensor if i can help it!!

This may sound stupid at this stage, but you are sure there are no cracks in the header tank, as this will prevent the system running at the right pressure and may not even get up to temp for the stat to open before boiling up in the header tank. A mate with a Golf had this problem, I know you say you have changed the cap, but make sure that the rubber seal is seated correctly as this will cause the water boil over if it is not. Sure enough when my mate popped round with this problem the seal was out of place.

Had not thought about using the digifant route. Where do the fuel rails come from, as for injectors i have some G60 Greys kicking around which i am sure I could use easily enough. It would save me having to use a lambda sensor which i would have to retrofit. Anyone got any info on running a 16v on digifant? Cheers

I am doing a conversion on a Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v, it is the later 90 spec and importantly has the later fuse board. Now i am planning a 2.0l 16v conversion and am looking to use the original KE-Motronic wiring from the car that was the doner: A Passat 16v. The car will be running: 9a 2.0l TSR flowed head KR exhaust cam as inlet 4 branch manifold (Prob) I have seen people running 180bhp + with this spec, but on K-Jet only, in theory the fully mapable KE-M should be better for the job? Or is K-Jet going to be better?

Its not something silly like the coil to dizzy lead still been off or something?

yep m8 the lambda sensor's are easy to change just unplug it and then unscrew it from the exhaust. easy peasy :D Haha, yeah mine crossthreaded, had to take decat off and eventually it needed a vice, a breaker bar and a long bit of scaffold tube to free mine. Then weld a new nut into place. Yep, Lambdas are simple!! :lol:

You forgot about the ability to walk on water! ;) .....or no atmosphere, the moon should do it :lol:

You would need a long six speed box and 600 bhp, that should do it!!

Pull up the carpet in the boot (trunk) and you should see the plate that covers the access to the fuel tank. Firstly is it screwed down? Secondly is the filter and ball cock (ie where the fuel gauge reader is) screwed into the top of the fuel tank properly. would suggest it is not and that is why you are getting the smell and the fluctuation on your guage

Dark blue VR6 travelling along valley near Ullswater, Cumbria. I was in a Silver Mk4 with Anni bits on it. Was on Thurs last week about 4.30 whilst i was having a break in The Lakes.