ChrisL

I'm so jealous now!!! I used to have a denim blue one and it was fantastic far better then the TT we swapped it for. Nice car look forward to seeing it.

I unscrewed the hatch in the boot last night, but all feels secure.. Is this where I should be looking for the pump? Chris

My fuel gauge works fine except for it dropping when accelerating and also bounces when I go over bumps, is there anything which should stabilise the guage?

I have a 2.0l 16V but really want a VR6, how easy is an engine transplant or should I sell up and buy a VR6?

From somebody that knows nothing on these engines, which pipes form the Vacuum system? Chris

Finally got to post a picture of my Corrado, its a 2.0l 16V in Classic green. Used to belong to daves16V. Future plans are some coilovers, some paintwork on the roof and bonnet. Wheels are 7.5 x 16", not sure whether to change the wheels for 17's or change to 195 45 16 and fit spacers to push to the edges of the arches.

Changed a bulging NSF flex brake line on Friday and ABS light was still on. Left for work Saturday morning and heypresto no ABS light!!! Thanks for all the help on this and looks like I have an ABS pump for sale.

Looks like my std exhaust system's not going to pass the MOT. What is the best exhaust to replace it with? I need CAT back, I don't want a noisy one just looks.

Will the car have to have the ECU reset to clear the ABS fault and extinguish the light when the new pump is fitted (if it cures the problem)?

Sorry for the confusion, I am replacing the assembly consisting of the pump and valve block below. The guy fitting it read that the abs unit should only be fitted by a main dealer as it should not be run dry (but it already looks dry) and needs to be pressure bled. He said something about getting airlocks in the system? Looking at the unit it looks a simple job to change with the only pain being the bleeding afterwards.

Thanks RW1, appologies for the barage of questions but I don't want to knacker the pump before starting. Does the pump need to be primed at all? the assembly has been off a car for some time and looks completely dry, can I just take mine off and fit the new one and bleed? Thanks

Thnkas for all the advise, a friend of mine is fitting the pump this Friday however he has read that the pump should be fitted by a main dealer only as the fluid needs to be pressurised whilst bleeding and no air can get into the pump. Is the pump straightforward to fit, I don't want to break it by not fitting it properly.

Thanks. Does anyone know if the ABS pump fuse needs to be pulled while bleeding the brakes?

Pump the pedal will remove this pressure then? on refitting of the pump do I need to bleed the brakes in any special order? does the abs pump need to have the fuse pulled to stop it working during bleeding? Thanks

Got a replacement ABS pump thanks to dazfx, is it a straight forward swap with the existing unit, is there anything special I need to do or do I just undo the inlet and 4 outlet pipes and bleed afterwards? Is bleeding the brakes straight forward, what order should they be bled in? Can anyone help on this. Thanks.

I use Zymol, start with the Lehm clay it's the best thing ever for smoothing the paint prior to polishing. It's expensive but in my opinion worth every penny.

I'd say don't do it. We had an old clio 1.8 16V which we sold and bought a denim blue S3 which was fantastic after a year we changed it for a 225 bhp TT but eventually leg room became a bit tight for my daughter so we exchanged it for a clio 172 for my wife and with the remaining money I was going to buy a Corrado. The 172 looks nice but we had nothing but trouble with the electrics. Compared to the audi's it was rattly and felt cheap. The plus side was the acceleration, it was chipped I think because it was faster then the S3 and TT!! Stick with a German car! we sold the clio after 6 months and bought an Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport.

Hi, Does anybody in the Hull area have the VAG Com for a '95 2.0 16V. I need to check faults with the ABS. Thanks Chris

Hi, My 2.0L 16V starts fine but does not run very well cold at all. It seams as though the mixture is all wrong when cold, you have to use more accelerator then normal until it warms up. It has just been serviced with new leads, plugs, air filter. It's not the end of the world but would like to try and sort it out. Thanks

What should the resistance be on a healthy sensor?

What should the reading be accross the sensors?

I don't have the codes, I will ask the garage for them. In the meantime I put my meteron ohms and tested the sensors last night and got approx 8 for the rears, 7 for NS front and 1.04 for OS front. I also disconnected the wiring to the top part of the pump (4 wires to the plug, a large brown and a large red & blue plus two small wires) and started the car, I was only reading 1.02Volts, is this correct?

I have been advised that the ABS pump may be faulty, before buying one how do I check if it's o.k and confirm its getting power? Does it run constantly when the ungine is running i.e check for voltage? Where are the relays to check? How would I know if the ECU was faulty not the pump? Can anyone help on this please?

Mine was only working on No 4 and soldering a new fuse has worked. Have you put a tester over the thermal fuse to check it is in tact? Also put the tester on the plug which connects to the motor assy and check you get a voltage on each colured wire as you turn the fan speed dial.

My heater blower was only working on speed 4, I have changed the thermal fuse and it is now running on speeds 1 to 3 only. What's happened to speed 4?