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  1. AAA with dizzy. LHD USA car. Yeah, seems that page doesnt specifically mention AAA with air con
  2. Thank you guys. I am really considering doing the aftermarket fan setup, my only concern is since I compete in a stock class, I think someone could protest it since it could be argued to be performance enhancing. Im gonna take the time time to read through that whole thread but its possible to run aftermarket fans and retain full function of the AC?
  3. ok, time to add my problem to this thread. 1992 VR6 5spd with AC. Problem: Have gone through 3 fans in the past 2 years. 20amp fuse on FCM intermittently blows. Cant get it to blow predictably. Past fixes: -Replaced bad Corrado 4pin motor with new passat 4pin motor that was professionally swapped into the Corrado motor housing. Worked great for a year, then burned up (literally). This is also when the fuse started blowing. The AC compressor wont turn on if the fuse is blown. -Replaced with 3 pin fan motor. Had a race that weekend and that was the only fan available on such short notice. -Fan no longer worked predictably when the thermoswitch was plugged in. Unplugged it and plugged a toggle switch directly into the harness for the thermoswitch. --fans turn on/off with toggle switch, but the afterrun will work correctly after the car shuts off. -replaced thermoswitch (twice) and even manually checked thermoswitch with hot water and a multimeter. -replaced crack pipe, thermostat and housing, and all senders. -fan still wouldnt turn on unless the toggle switch was used. And fuse still randomly blows. --eventually afterrun stopped working Now: the fan wont turn on at all, even with the toggle switch jumping the leads to the thermoswitch. So bad motor, but Its probably just a symptom of another problem. My attention is now on the FCM, but im questioning if the correct one is even in the car because the previous owner seemed rather careless when it came to repairs. The one in the car is 357 919 506. Is has a blade fuse, 5amp fuse, and 20amp fuse. All research indicates this is the FCM used in later VR6s which this is not. From what I've read and advice I've received, the correct FCM is 1H0 919 506? But that one has only a single blade fuse.
  4. It was stuck partway open. I did try to clean and lube it, but that only seemed to work once for a couple weeks and did not work again. I ended up purchasing and installing a 2.9 IACV as fendervg suggested. It immediately fixed the problem, but the car tends to idle high now(around 1200 rpm). Periodically it will drop down to normal idle, but only after its warmed up, and only sometimes. I've adjusted the throttle cable damper which seems to have dropped the rpms a little, but now my fan motor stopped working again, so I cant test the idle stuff extensively until thats sorted.
  5. Correct. 1992 AAA. Theres quite a few options with the same fittings and electrical connector but none seem to have the exact same part number.
  6. Im having a hard time finding an exact replacement IACV for my 2.8 VR6. Would a similar 2-pin IACV for a golf or something work? I did search the site before posting. If there are existing threads on this topic, please point me in the direction.
  7. I've 'solved' my problem. The issue ended up being something with the lock actuator. It was stuck in the down position and holding the latch locked. I gave up trying to open the door and brought it to my bodyshop guy, fully prepared for him to cut the door open. He more or less did the same thing I and several others tried with the levers but somehow he got it open. I replaced the old latch with a new(used) one and immediately noticed turning the lock was still difficult, but ONLY after the door was locked and unlocked. I had to tickle the handle to get it to unfreeze itself but its the passenger door so no way could I expect everyone to be so gentle. I detached the actuator and everything became 10 times smoother and never got hung up. I took the actuator apart to try and see if there was something visually wrong but didnt notice anything in particular. Also, the central locking has never worked on my car so the actuators are really putting some extra weight on the key turn. A new problem arose however. Something with the door handle wires is messed up. When plugged in, the window will always roll itself up if the keys off; and the car will incessantly chirp when both doors are closed.
  8. Heres the photo I got. You can see the push pin slipped off the lever but that isnt the problem. The lever with the notch in it is stuck in the lock position. I got a clothes hanger around it to pull it up and a screw driver to push down. It wont budge in either direction. I ripped the weather stripping out to get to the latch from the outside and try and manually get it to release. I practiced on the driver door and it is theoretically possible but I could not get it after trying for 2 hours. Looks like my next move will be to call a locksmith and if that doesnt work, start cutting. Anyone have any other suggestions?
  9. The lever pointed out in blue wont go up all the way. Ive gotten a coat hanger around it and pulled to no avail. The yellow lever moves but doesnt do anything with the door locked, neither does the interior handle. Looking at the working driver door, it doesnt seem possible to get to the latch from the inside.
  10. Didnt realize it was a subscription site. It would seem I was the one making bad assumptions. Sorry Ive subscribed now, but that does bring up the question of why this site relies on external image hosting if its charging a membership fee. There are many dead and useful topics on other forums where all the images have been deleted because the site they were uploaded to went dark.
  11. So i'm in the middle of troubleshooting a lock out situation and then I get restricted to replying only to the newbie section because some condescending mod assumes the problem isn't all that unique and can simply be solved by calling AA. Wow A+ forum here. Sorry no, the whole reason I was posting was because it isn't the same problem everyone else has had. So thanks for limiting my ability to troubleshoot and participate in an already niche forum.
  12. That's the part that seems to be jammed. I got a coat hanger around the lever plate. No amount of force would get it to budge.
  13. I cant remove the door handle because the screw is on the inside of the door frame which I cant get to because the door is stuck closed. Is that the lever with plastic bit on it that doesn"t seem to be attached to anything?
  14. And what if it is the latch mechanism? Is there a way to open the door? I can see the inside handle pulling on the mechanism but the door wont open. Ive tried manually moving the levers with a long screwdriver and no luck there either. It seems to be jammed locked because I cant get the lock lever or the pin to move fully up.
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