Philly-R6

Hey up,

I'm not sure I understand you.

These are pic's of my throttle cable (1992 G60) - does it look like yours [assuming yours is G60]?

Phil

Hey Pete,

Sounds like your fuel relay is your problem. The contacts inside the relay do get a bit cruddy over time - making the switching intermittent.

You can prise the lid off the relay and briefly sandpaper the contacts if you fancy meddling (you have another on the way anyway).

They do a Mahle one for £52!
CR 407 000S MAHLE ORIGINAL 376714641 Engine radiator for vehicles with air conditioning, 673 x 305 x 34 mm, Automatic Transmission, Manual Transmission, Mechanically jointed cooling fins | AUTODOC price and review

Word of warning on Aftermarket alloy Radiators - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum

Yep - That isn't going to glue back together! Probably the cause of your leak, too.

Autodoc do one 041700N AKS DASIS Engine radiator 630 x 310 x 34 mm, Manual Transmission, Automatic Transmission, Mechanically jointed cooling fins for VW Corrado 53i | AUTODOC price and review . Have a proper look for a good one.

Or upgrade to a stainless one - they may even do the bend so you won't need the flange? I've no experience of these.

Hmm - depends where it is actually leaking from.

You can un bolt the flange from the radiator and there is a round seal on the pipe that goes into the radiator end tank. It could be this that is leaking?

Part# 535 121 687 Round seal (31x3,2)

Example: Genuine VW Radiator Top Flange Seal O Ring G60 VR6 Nos - 535121687 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Let us know how you get on...

This is what Cressa is referring to: The definitive VR6 cooling guide - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum. Most of it carries over to the 4-pot cars (radiator switch, fan controller and sensors) - just ignore the auxiliary electric pump.

The blue sensor tells the ECU the temperature. If you can get to it, disconnect the housing and measure the resistance of the sensor with a meter. Cold values are larger resistances (250 Ohms) and warmer values approach zero Ohms. (If I remember it correctly!) Or if you have VCDS or such like - see what temperature the ECU believes it is.

Looking further the 16v seems to have both sensors in one 4-pin sensor..

Volksworld13 was making them in the proper steel tube with stainless unions, but it looks like he's not been on here for a while:

Genuine vw corrado brake lines remanufactured updated prices (July 19) - Forum Group-Buys - The Corrado Forum

I bought a full set a while back and they are brilliant.

Hey up,

I suppose it all comes to what "further forward" means (a photo would answer this, but I think you can't upload photos until you have made so many posts).

Refer to VW Corrado Bumpers (heritagepartscentre.com).

The bumper has a main black bracket which runs across the front of the car with two sloped brackets (8) where the four bolts secure it from under the car - sandwiching the front engine support bar. I guess this is located correctly to get your bolts through.

There is a black holder with two bobbins on each side where the ends of the bumper needs to slot on to.

Lastly, if the previous people have taken the bumper plastic off the main bracket and not refitted it properly, the bumper may appear too far forward (but only by 1cm or so). There are 10 or so black plastic wedges (10) that hold the bumper plastic to the main bracket.

There isn't much to go wrong - if it all lines up!

Report back with your findings.

I think the light flashes the same for either scenario.

According to the instruction manual (p34 for G60):

Quote

The warning lamp flashes when ignition is switched on. The lamp must go out when the engine has started.
If the lamp does not go out or flashes when driving - a buzzer also sounds at engine speeds over 2000 rpm - stop, switch engine off, check oil level and if necessary, add oil.

Try to disconnect the connector to the low pressure sensor and ground the signal wire - see if the flashing goes out?
I guess this sensor would be open circuit until the pressure is met then closed circuit.

Then repeat for the high pressure sensor.
This may be the other way round: Open circuit until high pressure is met?

I've not tried any of this, but it may point you where to go next...

There was a thread on VW Vortex - I don't know if all the pages are there, though...

I also use parts catalogue Group Parts Corrado (COR) [EUROPA 1992 year] (7zap.com). Others are available, but I stuck with this one!

Have fun

If you are stuck, I have one from a Mk3 Golf.

The grey wires will be the same (just longer). I would need to check the other single wire connectors (indicators, main beam, etc, as I'm sure its a 3-way connector).

Here is a photo of where my heated seats harness connected:

Does your speedometer work in the dash?

From memory the vehicle speed is passed around on a blue/white wire.
So from the gearbox sender (near the diff) the wire goes to one of the little 4-way connector blocks above the fusebox (it will have a few blue connectors in there - see the picture here http://the-corrado.net/topic/86840-heated-seat-wiring-earth/?do=findComment&comment=1030915). One wire then takes the vehicle speed to the dash and another will take the signal to the spoiler control module. The spoiler control module is behind the dash where the manual switch is.

If your speed displays correctly on the clocks, it could be an iffy earth (especially as it worked fine last summer).
Check the earth connector near the spoiler controller - follow the brown wire.
And then the earth block in the rear hatch by the spoiler itself.

Do the reverse and number plate lights illuminate correctly on the hatch? Are they dim? Or do they dim when the spoiler moves?

Report back with your findings...

I don't know, but i did find this - I hope it helps:

The unofficial Cluster Swap thread | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

A little more info' for you - from Cressa!!
Rear badge gap/position - Car Care - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

According to the 1992 Volkswagen Corrado Product Information Bulletin (Jan 1992 - No4):

"The Supercharged badge will be fitted as standard to the rear of all 1992 model year Corrado G60 and Polo G40"

Could you get the sunroof loom for the MK4 Golf and try to integrate it into the existing Corrado wiring?

On 2/24/2023 at 2:47 PM, fla said:

There was a thread by Science (Neil) who put some excellent detail.  Another one by Carrado (i think that was his username) with some great pics (i believe these will now have gone sadly).  I'll try and dig those out and post up the links

I used these threads, too.

The thread by Science: VR6 OBD2 Harness Adaptation - Engine Bay - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)
The main thread by C488ADO: How to fit / wire / install obd2 - [Archive] Wiki Submissions & Collaboration - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

I went the Science route of modifying the Corrado harness, but it is proper time consuming. Just get the Golf harness and put it in - get the Engine harness, too.

You can include your factory Immobiliser in the OBD2 ECU, too: Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki. You need to know the PIN for the Immobiliser (I got this using VAG Tacho and an cheap/copy VAG-Com OBD cable).

Not actually driven it yet, but it idles and revs!

15 minutes ago, LA9V VR6 said:

Hi, I cannot see past page 1. ☹️

Is there any anyone who can make a loom up for me, so I can use original fan loom and controller to operate slimline fans?

Thanks 

You may have to stick /page/2 on the end of the address bar (an annoying known issue on here...).

Refer to the G60 boost check at the bottom of The Buyers Guide:

The Corrado Buying Guide & Checklist - THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base (the-corrado.net)

There are three pins on the Vehicle Speed Sensor:

1    Black    12v (Ignition)
2    White/Blue    Signal
3    Brown    0v

Pin 2 provides a square wave whose frequency changes with speed.

I found this video: VW VSS speed sensor 4 pulse - YouTube

I have never tested a speed sensor, so you may have to apply this to what the sensor looks like...

Essentially, take the sensor off.
Apply 12v to pin 1 & 0v to pin3.
Turn the gear inside the sensor and see if you get an output on pin2.

Have fun!

Hi,

The standard wires are described in this thread: Definitive Guide to Corrado Stereo Wiring. Mods pls sticky! - ICE 'n' Secure - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) and on A2 Resource Radios (a2resource.com).

You can buy Radio connectors from eBay (for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363857704289) - if you want to build your own harness? As you know you only need a good earth, permanent fused 12v and switch 12v from the Ignition switch.

But it also depends on what is left of your wiring harness - there could be live wires in there if the harness has been cut off. Or (hopefully) the radio connectors are still in there somewhere?! I'm sure the radio wiring is part of the dash wiring harness. I doubt they would have unpicked all the radio wires nicely...

Just to report back... I bought a pair of replacement adjuster bits from the chap on Etsy.

It wasn't too difficult to replace the adjuster base - just fiddly.

I had to split the headlight to disconnect the adjuster from the reflector (I could not get enough purchase on the barb to disconnect the adjuster using a screwdriver from behind through the bulb opening). Then I used a drift to knock the adjuster shaft from/through the handle, so I could screw the shaft into the new part.

Adjuster assembly shows the parts separately. The new part is the white bit in the middle (re-using the original gromet).

Once fitted, it looks like this:

I've not got the headlight back in the car yet, so not sure if the adjustment range is there, but it seems ok so far...

Has anyone used their replacement adjusters? Are they any good?

Someone else is doing them on Etsy now: VW Corrado Headlamp Adjusters 3D Printed Replacements in PETG - Etsy UK

Just wondering if this is a viable fix in reality...

Got mine through the door today, too!

Many thanks.