Kempy

Ive used it in the past for when I got less time... Ive recently come across this filter for the original problem about water/drying http://vimeo.com/11381105

Ive not taken a pic sorry. basically they dont line up

I briefly got the satin valver going today but It sounded quite rough but its the 1st time its run for 12months.. anyway I noticed the belt on the PS pump and the cranck isnt striaght as it should be. It pokes out more than it should on the cranck pully, If I tighten the bolts more the pully just deforms around the bolts underneath, have I used the right bolts underneath? ta

i got a diagram coming.. hold on

Do you have the rad cover panel? I think those hoses are on that diagram on the stickers?

there is a valve on back of the air box I think. :shrug:

I see, I'll look in my haynes, its in handy reach :D

charcoal filter?

just hold out mate somebody will come along, just bump the thread tomorrow. theres a few valver guys around. I got oil on my ht leads to :mad2: I gotta get gaskets to did you change both these?? http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id=664

i will try mega cranking :lol: Im not sure about some other stuff tbh... I got a 4 branch but the lambda isnt long enough to fit now, also I didnt have panel air filter fitted :lol: ..so i was worried about the mixture. So theres nothing electrical that can be stopping the metering of the fuel just no pressure? where in the airbox do I spary the easy start stuff? And another thing :lol: I didnt notice before I started the work on the car that the charcoal filter is basically not being used, is this a thing people do?

there is deffo fuel in the metering head, so you suggest cranking the beans out of it?? an loosen off one of the banjos to see if anythings coming through. how much cranking are we talking here?

around 12months ago...I ve changed the fuel lines from the metering head because the first one looked dodgy and twisted. how would I sort the pressure or an airlock, is there a way to bleed it?

Ok I now have spark :D yeay... The 3 pin plug into the dizzy is damaged and one of the pins wasnt going into spades. Just a little simple fix in the end.. Now I dont have fuel in the injectors but the pump is priming and I have fuel and a good spray from the cold start valve.. so Im nearly there 8-) what to check now??

yea the earth appears ok. Do yo have any pics of what the KR head should have on the wires/senders etc.. because Im not 100% what goes where.. the spark control unit being the most important one :lol:

Today I tried the dizzy off my daily and put it in the satin it still didnt start. I then tried the dizzy from the satin and put it in the daily and the car fired up no problem... so I think both the dizzys i got are fine and I dont know whats next to look at :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

bump I cant get this to spark still :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: When cranking the coil is giving me a reading of 10v I also tried starting when byepassing the starter switch and no luck. Any ideas next? I cant really afford to pay somebody atm to look at it and waste time doing what ive done already.. I trust you guys know more anyway 8)

I did that last week..much better now

no joy trying that Also I managed to test the voltage from the coil whilst cranking and it was 10v?

ok I'll give that a go. I hope thats it

to byepass the switch?

i couldn't test that i was on my own, worth looking at that is it?

there is 12v going to the coil and around 9v leaving it when ignition is on

thats what I said in my head before I read your post lol

I found out over on clubgti about the oil. The leads arent anything special, cant say what they are tbh but they arent anything other than normal ones. I think the dizzy cap was most mullered so that might have been a factor in the more grunt.. :D I gotta tax this car monday.. but might take it of the road for a bit to sort it out. Are any manifold gaskets required when I change the rubber rocker ones?