stevef182

The difference between yours and mine though is night and day, im hoping the chap on here will see that and realise, but if not maybe dropping a line to DDI is a good idea. In the meantime, any more pics for comparisson would be great.

£30, but then later I did a deal on the whole instrument cluster as well so its a bit difficult. Its from a chap on here, and he seems like a good guy but he is adament that they are DDI. I am almost 100% sure they are not. The ebay ones above are different to mine as well, they fit without glue (there is an instructuonal video on youtube) Mine im sure are an even cheaper ebay job. I bought some about 4 years ago for my old valver from german ebay for about £10 and they were identical to the ones i received yesterday.

http://www.dubdesignindustries.com/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=202 The above shows how close the gauge rings should be to touching? Or am I going mad?

pic of the temp and fuel gauge

I bought these recently, and I think there has been a genuine and simple misunderstanding, however I was sold them under the pretence they were genuine DDI gauge rings However, from what I have seen in the past genuine DDI gauge rings a) sit raised from the platsic facia (mine sit recessed about 2mm) b) do not have a 'dent' centred at the bottom of the largest dial ring (mine have a dent) c) do not block any of the markings on the gauge face themselves (mine partially blocks the fuel pump symbol & the thermometer symbol as well as a lot of the markings) d) are almost touching at their closest points - 1/4 of a tank of fuel and 35mph on the speedo and 130mph and 1500 rpm (mine are miles apart due to being recessed inside the hole for the gauge face. However, this is only what I can tell from looking at pics from the DDI site and various photos on here and I dont want to kick up a fuss if im wrong... Do these look like DDI gauge rings to you, or an imitation??

I also have the clocks if the other set fall through - in perfect working order, showing 106k

Im afraid I dont know the cause but in about two days I will have a set of clocks for sale, if you dont get yours fixed. Let me know.

I was thinking the same thing only a few days ago, there used to be so many new things for sale every day, so when the new classifieds section came out I presumed that the slow down of parts for sale was just down to time to adjust to the new system, but it still seems really slow. Shame as it was one of my favourite things about the forum, but I suppose at least I save a load of cash. It also seems a lot harder to actually shift things if you do put an ad up. You cant gauge peoples reactions on price etc as there is no thread for discussion. But nevermind. Perhaps there are just less members these days?

Not sure, but whatever the gizmo is behind the gauge face, it doesnt look as if it would come out all that easily!

I want to put mine forward, from 100k, to 130k, im being honest but not keen on spending £80 odd to do so. ---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ---------- Its not that simple, the mechanism that makes the gauge and needle work/move doesnt remove from the cluster, otherwise that would have been the obvious option.

Im on hold with one of them now, but its quite expensive. On the mk3 golf there is a chip that can be removed and swapped over, wondering if its similar on the corrado.

Having just bought a new instrument cluster to replace a broken temp gauge, I want to (if possible) still have the old, and therefore correct, odometer reading. Is there a way to do this, like a removable chip somewhere which holds the data and can be swapped between the two clusters?

Can we add age into this, as its got to be one of the most significant factors. I'm 26, VR6, bigger brakes, alloys, suspesnion, exhaust paying £550. (Chris Knott was £780 and Admiral £630)

Having read Kempy's post (and I'm glad I did) I thought i'd call HIC just to check their prices, even though I only just took out a policy with Admiral. Admiral saved me £150 odd on my renewal with Chris Knott..HIC knocked another £100 off that price, plus £100 less on the excess, with all mods declared A little frustrating as I then had to pay the £22.50 charge to Admiral to cancel the policy I just took out, but HIC was a much better deal, not only financially but in terms of unlimited mods (excluding performance enhancing) and TPFT cover on any other vehicle, better stereo cover etc etc and therefore worth the fuss. I'd give them a call!!

I have a full vr6 standard suspension set-up for sale, let me know if you're interested.

Yup, Admiral. I was with Chris Knott for the last 2 years until I renewed a few days ago, and Admiral were £150 odd cheaper than my renewal quote with CN. As Cazza said, Admiral are one of few (Elephant and Bell as well as they are all part of the same group) who havent put premiums up by 25%. In fact they are apparently loss leading just to win business, so chances are you will get the best price from one of them.

How's it going Ben? Any pics with the new wheels? Did you get the gearbox fitted?

A little sticker would have been ideal!! And yes I know the seats take two seconds to take out, however, putting them back in with only one person is not quite as easy, hence the request for a shortcut. But to be sure im just going to take one out anyway!

Easypops, thank you. All I needed to know. Alex, the seats are new to the car, originally I had a cloth interior, so no switches!!

Yes yes, I'm not stupid..I did ask the easiest way though. And to be fair there would only be wires if a loom was attached so perhaps there being a plug there is more accurate :) No way of checking without removing the seat?

What is the easiest way to identify a heated leather seat vs a non-heated one? Thanks

Yeah I saw them as soon as I looked, quite obvious when you know they are there..thanks though. What an awesome fix! Worked a treat, wish I had known that years ago!!!

If it turns out to be the gauges rather than wiring they can often be fixed; Take the clocks out of the dash and remove the glass. Pop off the needle and unscrew the gauge face and remove. You will see a green tower with a slot down the middle that the needle itself sits on. Next to the tower is a metal strip with wire wound around it, the end of which should sit inside the runner of the green tower..(as the metal strip moves, the tower turns and makes the needle move)..the metal strip can sometimes remove itself from the tower and then obviously the gauge wont work. Pop it back into the runner and put it the cluster back together. Have a quick look, its quite easy! (the rev counter works in exactly the same way) ---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ---------- Edit..this is for a VR6..i presume the g60s work in the same way but i dont know for sure..let me know.

Could you explain where these rubber 'cones' are located please!!

What an awesome result, very impressed. Looks so tidy, and you now can enjoy so many aspects of corrado ownership without ridiculous running/fuel costs being such an issue. I'd love a rado TDi as a daily and then the VR for the weekends! Well done that man!