bosshogg

UPDATE

I decided to fit standard rear disc and bearings to get over problem. re thread the disc wheel bolt holes is probebly not a safe option :shock:

thanx ,disc where drilled type £130 a pr cant be bought indervidual guess theres no cheap way out

Changed rear wheel and whilst doin up the wheel bolts three of em wont tighten up, so can i get them recoiled as i only fitted new rear discs last year

or ? any help much appreciated :pale:

JAMEX COILOVERS

Got them on my Rado they do the job, had to get 2 replaced under warrenty thru TSR seal blew.

Tsr where great. Hard as hell for ride comfort,great for cornering and looks, be carefull when lowering otherwise to low i found stainless exhaust

touches the rear crossmember.

Should be ok had to remove decat pipe for mot in jan, so hopefully no bad language required.

cheers for info,last car was a mk2 no worries about lamdas then :D

Time has come to change the lamda sensor,im running rich,plugs sooted up,tailpipe black. My question is

how to change the sensor is it as simple as unplug, then unbolt and fit a new one or do we need VAG equipment to set up.

The wiring was checked and is ok.

My corrado seems to have a whine (hum) coming from the drive area 20mph upwards only just noticable to me.

I have fitted coilovers to a 40mm drop, changed gearbox oil vw go52 726 a2, and inspected box no signs of wear on drive shaft. gaiters all fine coilovers have been supertracked.

Can drive shafts be under strain due to coilovers ? i.e on gearbox inner bearing

wheelbearings seem to have no play

any ideas chaps

Lamda wireing was cut at plug end to engine,tried to rewire but need another loom.

could the lamda be damaged due to wires cut ?

will i need to check the co2 again

hope to resolve this weekend :)

Good luck tomorow dude, ive got flusted lookin under the bonnet :D he's the guru

Dont get rid of the car it holds too much sentimental value to you

you will find a way

Mine is not workin either but will sought out soon i hope 92 raddo 2.0 16v

good luck dude 8)

Hey dude, sounds like the same symtoms/prob as my 92 raddo 2.0 16v

i get started ok runs for 1/4 mile then dies to 500rpm then wont rev,then

surge of power.

LET ME KNOW IF YOU FIND THE PART NAME PSE.

Ok can u let me know if you resolve the problem

my raddo starts fine and drives ok for 1/4 mile then misfires jerks revs

die to erratic low 500rpm across all cylinders, no power to pull away.

Then if i remove the ecu plug spray WD40 on to the plug i get temporary

power back for a 1/2 mile then it starts again,sometimes i keep the revs

to 4000 and i can get it home.So far ihave replaced the following

4 x injectors

dizzy cap

rotor arm

plugs bosch

leads beru

fuel filter

to me its fuel starvation, but i dont get the ecu and wd40 bit ?

any idea dudes :roll:

My Rado is suffering power loss during the first three miles of a trip out

depress the accelorator hard in low gears and it will die then regain abit

like lack of fuel followed by backfire noise but in mid exhaust, when warm

it goes better but not perfect.

Ive fitted new injectors, plugs(bosch super)

any ideas

Diesel this aint a cool move man 8) just think of the noise and smell,

a cool car with a distintive rattle under the bonnet. What would that be like

with s/s exhaust.

New thermo switch made no differance, so unplugged switch tested

a digital voltmeter over the three wire contacts only one read 12v.

So i assume fan is running on one speed, that being slow run.

Looks like the garage for me. :cry:

Water was brown colour no crud to be seen. working on replacing stat switch

thinking the 2 speed fan is only working on 1 speed cutting in at 108 deg.

Will let you all know tomorow eve if prob solved.

as for hoses they seem fine i have no loss of coolant.

Water pump was done with cambelt last march (previous owner)

however i contacted the last owner apparently its been running like this

for the three years he owned it.

Soon as it does motorway work temp settles around 100/100 so he says.

The raddo hasnt boiled over or warning light on yet .

I think i will go for stat switch with lower temp fan cut in

Ive changed the thermostat last saturday got one from GSF, and yes

put ordinary antifreeze in temp still went up 108 deg oil as well.

So today after work dropped coolant flushed out + rad refilled using

G12+ and replaced exp cap to a blue one.

Test it out on way to work tomorow. My other considerations are to change thermostatic switch for one that cuts in at a lower temp

apparently a damaged cat internals can cause over heating 8)

Well thanx for your help, so far had a test done on the coolant for gasses ,

im ok there. Bought a new expansion cap blue (vag). lower hose is cooler

than top rad hose.

So my plan is to drop coolant back flush + flush rad then use G12+ as every

one says to do on this forum....... :snipersmile:

Thanx for that, fan cuts in ok coolant circulates ok bottom hose warmes fine,

thinking of getting fan switch that cuts in lower than 108 deg.

can anybody tell me what the correct temp approx should be for a

2ltr 16v raddo be.

Mine seems to op at water 108 deg oil 100/108 after 7 miles

have fitted new stat, but after browsing old topics i need to change expansion tank cap to a blue one.

Only had raddo for a month previous woz a mk2 16v with a 6a engine

that ran 94 deg oil. 8)