swiftkid

I actually found my wiring diagram the other day so ill fish it back out for confirmation but I do believe both those yellow plugs are part of the auxiliary water pump wiring. I needed to solder a couple of wires that got snipped whilst converting the loom and thinking about it they may connect to that yellow 2 pin plug. If you can see wire colours on that large plug on the side of the engine you may find that red and brown/white have been cut somewhere. Will double check for you though

Just run a direct 12v feed through it and see, I was having a problem with the aux pump so I replaced it and realised it was a wiring fault, it was as a result of going obd2 but I would just check it. It's better to have a quiet aux pump than a loud one!

Ahh this old chestnut, I wouldn't go changing the lambda straight away, I have found a lot of times that the maf which is a more common pain in the arse tends to cause lambda faults. Basically the maf goes crazy and sends the fueling wild so the lambda sensor doing it's job tries to control it but can't keep it between the limits so throws the code up thinking lambda is at fault. I would check the maf is working ok before replacing the lambda

Congratulations! thats really impressive, I'm just training for a 10k at the moment and thats scary enough. Out of interest what was your training regime for the marathon, after doing this 10k I would really love to continue on to a marathon

You need to reduce the latency in your computer settings for the port you are using, Google it and it will come back with a few results. Mine works fine on the vagcom lead after I did that

Very sad news to hear, never met him but everytime I saw a post from him on here I would straight away think "this will be extremely informative and helpful". Always seemed like a very genuine and nice guy, RIP

Why did the chicken cross the road? To escape North Korea's long range missiles. Oh and seeing as subcool has had his message deleted might be worth deleting ruggys message, almost looks like hes having a go at Billcor..

Yes thats fine, its its a splitter box and its supposed to be like that.

Either way I won't be making that mistake again, that is one of the reasons I didn't finish the conversion last time. It was such a nightmare emailing every breakers in the country and every advert for someone breaking an r32, this time I want the engine and the loom it came with so no hassle and no messing about.

The eBay vagcom cables will work fine with obd1 and they just use a usb port. Just download the vagcom lite software. You won't have full access and it won't tell you what some of the codes are but you can easily Google the code it gives you.

If its the one painted black on ebay at the moment I saw that and emailed the guy, sadly full conversion to one person means something completely different to me. Comes with no lambda sensors (£120 each second hand), no mass air flow meter (£100+), no ecu to fusebox loom (minimum £200 plus actually finding one, my last engine didn't come with one and took me 2-3 months and almost tears to find one). The reason I didn't finish the conversion the first time round was because I was missing soo many parts, this time round I want to start right and finish it this time

Little bit overkill for a standard VR, not going to do any damage at all its just an expensive way of replacing the pcv valve. They are more used for high power cars, someone might want to swap if it was a concern

Ok this is winding me up now, I am wanting to get cracking but for some reason the price of these have gone up since last time I bought one and people seem to think everyone is an idiot. Few on ebay I have seen listed as a full conversion, emailed the seller to which I get replies of "no, doesn't come with any loom, lambda sensors, maf" etc etc... basically the most expensive parts which is clearly why they are selling the engine. Other times I find just what I need and its a ridiculous price or just too high mileage, has anyone got any advice where I can find an R32 being broken so I can get all the bits I need or one going for a reasonable price with reasonably mileage

That's probably a good reason why I havnt seen it then. I live up Lincoln way, I've had the car for about 5 years and I'm always driving around Beverley and hull. I know of at least 5 corrados in Beverley including mine

Hey I'm a beverley lad, my car is actually currently parked in an MOT station ready for its return to the road tomorrow. Havn't seen your car around but hopefully will do!

If its the same one I'm thinking of it fits in the picture below, if by any chance there is 2 going spare I need one of the buggers, snapped mine removing it then snapped another one about a week after I put it in

26, owned my current VR6 for nearly 5 years, before that I had a 1.8 valver, must have been about 20ish. After I sold the valver I said to myself never again will I own another corrado...

Haha loving the picture of the trim covered in peanut butter! I havn't tried it but I have heard that it works, never thought to actually try it. I have found that autoglym trim gel works wonders! use little pea sized amounts and rub it in to small areas, seems to last pretty well as well and its not too expensive.

Great progress and looks fantastic! I always have a great feeling of achievement knowing that I have saved a corrado from most likely the scrapyard. Always like looking at the photo's of when I bought it and then now.

Honestly, I would just buy a car with a blown engine or one that needs some work. You will find the little parts really do add up and corrado's can be picked up really cheap. I bought mine for £800 as a full car with engine in bits and even then I shudder when I even begin to think how much I have spent!

I'm afraid I don't know with dizzy engines but just match the ecu part numbers and you will be fine.

No, there are a few different types depending on age, you have coilpack early (ag), coilpack late with immobiliser (cp) and dizzy engine at least, don't know the part number for dizzy ecu though. Part number on ECU's will be something like 021 906 258cp or ag etc.

Had this on my Beemer the other day whilst in work clothes changing a flat, not amused!!! front wheel i put the bolts back in, put the jack in place and took the strain of the car and gave the wheel a good few turns left and right, worked a charm. As for the rears you could loosen the nuts off slightly, just enough for the wheel to move but not enough for it to drop off the spigot, stick the handbrake on and try drive it back and forth, well not drive it but rock it. Best of luck! EDIT: skim read fail, I see you got it sorted! its a job I need to do to make sure all the wheels are free but glad to hear its done!

Jeff, tell them you want it to park a motorbike on it ;) davidwort: as lilfuzzer said, you won't need planning permission unless it is on a classified road and this is from a person who has worked in the planning department. The issue is, if you do it yourself and some horrible neighbour decides to be a pain in the arse there may be a problem with damaging public property or something like that. But yes, its lovely money making scheme for the local council. You do need to apply to the highways section for a dropped kerb pack which guess what, costs money and then that gives you a list of contractors who can do the work. Utter bull if you ask me but this is the council we are talking about.

I believe this is running something like 15x11s on the back and I can't remember the front, likely to be something just as crazy. Looks awesome in my opinion but likely that others don't share the same view. Either way I await pictures, everything can be made to fit, some things just shouldn't be though. I remember a thread not to long ago on a well known VW website about putting 17s on a mk1 golf, everyone slated the comment then had to eat their words when the guy fitted them and it looked stunning.