swiftkid

Its a difficult one to advise really, as a corrado lover and with it being the corrado forum I would advise doing something corrado based but not mid engined, it becomes a bit of a mongrel and even with all the engineering and fabrication skills in the world it will never be OEM, it will be very cool but it sort of becomes a car built around an engine so less of a corrado and more of a kit car with corrado bodyshell in which case you might as well just get a kit car! Seeing your previous projects have you considered a 4wd 2.0tfsi corrado? If I remember correctly then can be tuned pretty easily and with 4wd it would be an animal! Forgotten his forum name but shaun put an audi 8p dash in a corrado and it looked awesome as well! However, something like an ultima would be brilliant for track days and they are extremely fun! Plus they hold their value well, sadly people don't seem to want to spend much past £3k on corrado's no matter the condition or spec!

The theory is, the larger the bore the more air flow and better top end but in my opinion theres no point having better top end because you just cannot use it these days. If you want better throttle response go obd2, the obd2 throttle body actually has a smaller bore which helps with throttle response.

Could possible be the MAF but just odd its doing it when changing down gears, presumably off the accelerator. Quick test for the MAF, get the car up to temperature (above 80 degrees) and unplug the MAF sensor, if its struggles or changes note or does something its fine, if it doesn't change at all its most likely your MAF but to be sure give it a vagcom before you go spending on new sensors. Have you tried cleaning the ISV out? A good clean out with carb cleaner will help it!

Bit confused with what you are after, are you going 5 stud or staying 4 stud? If its 4 stud you are after, you can use corrado vr6/early golf gti/vr6 or G60 brake calipers, they are all 280mm but you will need G60 4 stud brake discs. They should all be straight bolt on and you can use the same hoses.

Just actually sent you a really long winded reply to your PM basically saying the same thing. I ended up having to do this http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic30638-1-2.aspx#bm30731 But really you shouldn't need to because you havn't been messing with wiring like I did with OBD2 conversion. I'd maybe try get vagcom and plug it in, theres a free version VCDS-lite which you can download from rosstech.

Well I'm still in the honeymoon period with my car so little heavy footed, but driving to work on back through Hull, little bit of traffic driving (on and off starting) I just got 310 miles to £60. How much is it to fill the tank?

They look like carlines

Seems like you have a similar problem to me, stage 1 fan doesn't seem like it kicks in at all and I thought stage 3 was the only one working but now I think the more likely story is that I'm being paranoid and stage 2 just sounds powerful. Anyway, have you bridged the wires on the radiator temp sender? Stage 1 takes its information directly from this sender with stage 2 taking information from both the yellow sensor and the radiator sensor, now here is my theory which is what I'm to do next, the radiator sensor is knackered so fan stage 1 isn't kicking in and stage 2 is kicking in because of the yellow sensor. That's only my theory though! Your problem may be that you had an airlock in the system and now that its been bled properly its running cooler but I'm afraid I can't say for sure as my water temp seems to fluctuate a lot.

That fitment is outstanding, whats the spec on the wheels?

Yea will do Abdul, I'm desperately trying to find some new wheels as I'm just not happy with the brocks but seeing as they look soo good I need something that will improve the look. Yea I saw you Matt, were you near the B&Q roundabout as well? I was driving alongside another corrado lol. I was in a bit of a rush home though, that morning my thermostat housing had popped so I had topped up my water and was trying to get home as fast as I could without the water getting hot! Yea got the windscreen trim sorted in the end, had another look at the paint and after a polish it was fine so couldn't really be bothered to cause a fuss. Some total c0ck has scratched my bumper anyway already, not massive but enough to royally p1ss me off!!!

I would like an estimation of the timescale as well, I live near Hull so I'd really like to coincide my mapping session with a trip down that way and it just soo happens I'm at BugJam on the 20th of July, cutting it fine you say? I never have it any other way lol!

Whats it like when operating it from the switch? Have you lifted it up manually as well using the winder on the mechanism? You just pull it out 1 click and then you can wind the spoiler up and down, obviously you can tell if its sticking when you wind it.

If you have 4 people in it, it will be lower than usual so will catch. Anyway sounds like old shocks to me, when you're lowering your car I always recommend either uprated shocks and springs or coilovers rather than just using standard

Is it lowered? If not, likely to be suspension seeing as its on a beam. As the wheel lifts it tilts forward, hence why you see low cars with the wheel sitting very close to the front of the arch

Is the power rohr for obd1 or 2? looks to only have 1 pipe coming off it

Cheers guys, it really has been a long time coming and without pictures people really can't see how much work I have put into the car but I literally disappeared for 6 months into my lockup to work on this car, 12 o clock finishes most friday and saturday nights but it was all worth it! Aide - Yes its well worth doing, really does make the car pickup soo much better but... and this is the only but I have to say on the OBD2 conversion is that you don't get that VR kick at 3.5k which at first I was a little bit disappointed but then I realise it was because there is soo much less lag so you -find its about 2.5k which your usually in the power range. Other than that I can't advise it more! I see between 35-40mpg regularly on my MFA now as well. Chris - hehe cheers, I always look for yours in the car park, looks amazing. Gotta get my all red rears sorted as they look awesome on yours, I have some film I bought but also sprayed some and can't decide which to go for as my spraying ones turned out pretty naff really and the film has the cutouts for the reverse light.

Yes, as far as I can remember thats what I did with my mates car. Mine was a late (CP) ECU so the immobiliser was already there. As you say, in order to remove the green connector and the black one you should only need to cut the black wire. How are you getting on with the obd2 conversion? I found it quite confusing at times, its helpful but really what you need is the wiring diagram in front of you to double check things just for peace of mind, at the time I just relied on the guide being 100% accurate which unfortunately it wasn't and I had problems with my fan and auxillary water pump for months until I found out that 2 wires havn't been connected, I've now put this into the thread but if you need any assistance with anything feel free to drop me a PM.

I believe that plug is to fit into position E on the fusebox which is for "Instrument or brake light wiring harness" which is obviously untouched on the OBD2 conversion. What its doing is piggy backing of another ignition live so just snip the black wire and reattach it to another ignition live like I mentioned above and get rid of the green plug.

Well just been having a sort out of photo's and to be honest I'm not one for taking progress pictures, I just like to get on with things and spend more time making sure the car is exactly how I want it. During the build I went a bit mad with sheets of padding and adhesive felt to make sure nothing rattles and so far so good! Anyhow, here are some of the pictures during the build some people might like to see. I literally cannot explain how much pride I took in putting this back together and it has been soo worth it. Been driving it for the past couple of months and only had a couple of problems from the obd2 conversion which I have sorted now, relating to cooling - matrix going pop, then thermostat housing so I just replaced the lot and so far happy days :) Also got a good condition 90mm splitter for it but the weather is absolutely appalling at the moment so no up to date pictures sadly. I have ordered some cams for it so hopefully I'll see past the 200bhp mark... fingers crossed!!! Before, looking a bit tatty Bit of arch manipulation The original plan was that a mate of mine was going to do the spraying but after seeing his work I decided I wasn't happy with it and approached another company, they gave me a good price including some welding so thought... meh why not I'll just make some alterations whilst I'm at it. The obvious one, the rest I like people to look at and think "theres something different about that but not sure what" to keep it oem...ish. Behind the rear bumper was pretty solid, just a little bit of paint flaking so I sanded it, treated it, painted it and undersealed it Getting there... All the arches well undersealed, lots of protection from the elements, no show car paint finish here... I want my car to last!!! Feast of kings!!! And the final article... will get some better pictures when better weather comes. Although I love the brock's, they just don't have the full wow factor I want so will be selling them in the not too distant future. Just trying to get my replacement wheels. I know what I want, I just can't find them!!! If anyone has any 16" split rims they fancy getting rid of, drop me a pm!

As far as I know the only door handles that are a direct swap are from an earlyish passat which can be used to delock the car. Mk2's I don't think actually fit nor do the porsche's. Failing that, get an angle grinder and get cutting!

Yea pictures would help, we are talking about the wires from the transponder to the car, the wires from the halo are completely unchanged and literally plug straight into the transponder box. But yea, get some pics up and I'll take a look

Started trying to type the wiring from memory but daves16v explains it quite nicely in the obd2 conversion thread "If you’re using the transponder box, ring and key you will need to wire the 5 wires from the 6 pin plug as follows – 2x Brown to earth. 1x Black to ignition live, I used one of the Black connector blocks on the front of the fusebox, this is where it takes it’s power from on the Golf fusebox albeit via another connector. 1x Grey/White wire on a Brown socket to be connected to corresponding plug in the fusebox, you can see the single wire Brown plug in the photo above. 1x Grey wire with a Brown connector plugs directly into the block behind the dash just behind the gear shifter. Don't be confused with the connector block under the gear shifter surround, you want the connector block behind the dash. You can get to it by removing the lower driver side shelf. This wire provides diagnostic function using VAG-COM/VCDS." Hope that helps

Right, this is going back a while so my memory is a bit hazy but I think I did use my original transponder for a while with obd2. I was on a CP ECU though (latest ECU). I did experience problems with immobiliser but I have been really unlucky, I swapped over to OBD2 stuff and still had problems which I managed to fix. A lot of people get away with simply plugging in the halo and away they go, not soo lucky people like me, my friend that I helped convert to OBD2 and Pete all had problems with immobiliser so its anyones guess if it will or won't work. As I understand it, the ECU only gets an OK signal from the transponder, it doesn't get any idea of what the chip is so as long as the transponder and chip match the ECU should be fine. Just for anyone searching for VR6 immobiliser problems, heres a helpful link that worked for me. http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic30638-1-2.aspx#bm30731

Seriously guys, learn by doing! I'm half tempted to offer to convert peoples looms for them seeing as I have now figured the bloody thing out after spending days staring at wiring diagrams. It is daunting staring at wires to swap it but if you really wanted to you could just plug the loom in then whatever isn't plugged in at the end needs cutting off. What you are doing when 'converting' the loom is removing unused wires relating to the headlights and aircon. There are literally 3 wires that need joining, the rest you could just look at the corrado loom and just see if the plug is there, if it is then you need it on the golf loom, if it isn't... snip it off. The only real difference in plugs is the maf, the rest is exactly the same.

If I remember correctly, I just used my exiting immobiliser parts and plugged it straight in. I'm not sure what people are expecting though, you will have to delete the immobiliser or wire up the transponder anyway. My mate bought the transponder bits for about 15quid. It really is a brilliant mod to do, going obd2 and having all the bits together really saves a lot of hassle.