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About J-Lynch

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  1. Dox if the powerstroke is #1 the fuel is injected on stroke #3 where the piston pulls vacuum on the inlet before it's finally pre-compressed for igniting. This pressure increase drives the boiling point of liquids down so even though the temp increases massively the more fuel atomization the injectors do for it the better.
  2. Geeba I've asked the question so hopefully I can twist his arm and there's some interest on here.
  3. So I did manage to get hold of these guys. Here's what I got; New message from: osidetiger (5,033Green Star) Our injectors will work just fine at 3 or 4 bar. Please note that running at a higher bar level than the factory setting may make you car run rich. It’s common practice for injector manufacturers (like Bosch) to only recommend the OEM injectors as replacements since they are not in the business of upgrades but would rather offload new old stock from inventory. Our injectors are a much more modern injector with advanced spray pattern, solid stainless core, and improved response times. The injectors are refurbished by us in the U.S. as far as we know they are exclusively sold by us so there is currently no other supplier we can vouch for. Many of our overseas customers either have a family member, friend, or service ship to them. Just a thought. Thank you again for contacting us. Might look into if any couriers can do this. Though I'm really hoping someone on here knows a man who can in the US and is wanting some of these. 😉 Either way in pretty convinced these are a good way to go for NA setups to squeeze out a little more of what we want out of these VR lumps 😊
  4. That is odd I wasn't even expecting a reply, never mind the definitive answer direct from Bosch. Ths is for sharing that is quite interesting. So the ECU is calibrated the factory bosch I'm Still curious how sensitive the setup would be to something with better spray. Found these on eBay which claim to be an upgrade to the factory boschs but are just rebuilt with quad spray nozzles. I thought the stock ones were quads but since I seem to have lost the them over my stupidly elongated rebuild time I don't actually know... Here's the link to them. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192463934408 Fully refurbished with the 4 spray pattern upgrade(?) Seems to good to be true at the price... Sounds like nicely balanced injectors will do wonders for performance though
  5. Has anyone tried fitting newer injectors to the VR 12v for better spray pattern? Seen a few videos on YouTube demonstrating old vs new Bosh spray patterns. There must be improvements on the 12 valve setup to be had where the fuel has to find its down the intake manifold way past valves and stuff.
  6. Ive had my vr612v rods machined/resized with arp hardware installed to the torque spec. What i really want to do is install them as recommended using the stretch method by measuring elongation. I realise the torque figure is an estimated figure to give desired clamping force and not as accurate as measuring the stretch. Has anyone out there experienced any problems when these are rods are machined and then installed like this. Im probably being ocd, but when it comes to getting this stuff right, I want to be![emoji6] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. Did you gauge your vr6 up? Im also trying to find which one is most usable for the VR too. If its the crankshaft your gauging with new bearings the standard limits are .01mm-.06mm for big end and .02-.06 for main bearing. Sofar i cant find one which measures lower than .018mm. The red plastigauge is looking best for this as coveres .025-.175. Ive just had my rods machined with arps. So im not sure what to go for assuming im on the tighter side of the spec.
  8. This is the upper guide as fitted ! Notice the middle mounting hole has gone. The bolt was still fitted but the only thing it secured was the metal ring and a bit of plastic that should have been attached to the rail. Not surprising it made allot of noise.
  9. Hi Rodger, sorry for the slow response. I did indeed, changed the broken guide rail and there was no need to remove the gearbox/lower cover etc. Mine has the early double row upper chain setup. The bit that looks tricky is that the thermostat housing slightly interferes with the guide when pushing it in but there's enough flex in it to get past it. Nothing serious just a gentle push does it and the lowest mount peg guides it in perfectly. Ps. Anyone know the OE brand of these early double row chains? Noticed the tired(ish) chains I'm running are stamped Sachs France. Any ideas?
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