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g0ldf1ng3r

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Posts posted by g0ldf1ng3r

  1. Posted

    21 hours ago, fla said:

    Alcantara sounds nice! Pics when possible pls 🙂

    thanks!

    i actually went for fake alcantara as the trim place showed me how they struggle to get the real stuff to bend into all of the liner contours - which is probably a good job though as it would have been twice the price & it was rather eye watering already

    hey ho, that is the interior finished though once it is back in

    i did take a pic of the sunroof control panel but the flash has made it look grey rather than black - cant wait to see it all back in the car

    20211204_131803.jpg

  4. Posted

    On 11/28/2021 at 8:55 AM, Cressa said:

    Definitely worth getting the door card off again. I will have a look and see if I have a spare switch which I could send you to try

    if you dont have one cressa i know i have new drivers & passenger early window switches

    i can send one you can use to test if cressa doesnt

  6. Posted

    1 hour ago, colinstubbs said:

    There definitely used to be a 'how too' on dismantling, cleaning & repair of early electric window and mirror switches many moons ago, I've looked but can't find anything for the later switches. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? 

    ive not seen one for the late switches, only the early

    ive got a printed copy of the early & it managed to fix my drivers side last year - it should be in the wiki IIRC

  9. Posted

    6 minutes ago, Keyo said:

    I think you need this - try dealers first No 31 on diagram. If you click in the info button next to part number it shows you what other models it came on.  

    https://www.ilcats.ru/vw/?function=getParts&market=RDW&model=COR&modelcode=76&year=1994&group=8&subgroup=885&part=187000&pid=3181&language=en

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=N90478201&_sacat=0

    that ebay one is the puppy keyo thank you!!

    even has the VW part number - will call the dealer in the morning just in case

    much appreciated

  11. Posted

    Hi all

    I need to ask for help as after pretty much 2 years i am putting the interior back into the VR6.

    I have 3 parts left to fit; rear seat upright, base & the hump

    however i have been scuppered by 1 single bolt - somehow i think ive lost the bolt that sticks out of the bottom of the seat upright which goes into the locating slot in the car body.  somehow ive got the plastic sleeve that goes over the bolt but not the bolt itself

    pictures attached to illustrate

    by any chance does anyone have one of these lying around pls or able to help with a part number so as i can get a replacement?

    i fear the seat upright, the smaller section one, isnt going to fix properly without this as the other side only fastens with a 2 nuts & washers 😞

    thanks in advance & i have already sent lilfuzz a message just in case20211103_122724.thumb.jpg.7e3f830c6793946c3dec29a190b16c22.jpg20211103_121035.thumb.jpg.bb7e6ce933fea6a40a26fedcc04fe17d.jpg

  12. Posted

    17 hours ago, Keyo said:

    Ive got my Heko now in the garage- even with the clip[s on they keep working loose so got fed up and dumped them in the garage before one falls off and damages the paint work. 

    where abouts did you position the clips m8?

  13. Posted

    3 hours ago, MJA said:

    Good work. I bought some Hekos over the summer but am yet to fit - easy job? 

     

    yes m8 took literally 2 minutes to fit them with the exception of me having to retrieve one of the metal clips from inside the door as wouldnt you know i dropped it & it landed in the one small opening of the door membrane lol

  14. Posted

    3 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

    Heko’s look well, as does the whole car mate, keep threatening myself with some. What are you doing about the roof strips/trims?

    thanks shaun

    im looking forward to driving with them, hopefully stop the water getting in when the window is slightly down

    as for the roof trims, ive now paid off the modena's from the credit card & am almost ready to buy the mouldings but heritage are out of stock of the right hand side

    im not in too much of a rush though as still need funds to finish the wheels & put rubber on them

  15. Posted

    busy weekend on the VR6 & starting to get it all back together

    leather all cleaned & conditioned whilst all the interior is still out

    passenger side & rear all vac'd & cleaned

    speakers wires, sub wires etc all routed better & taped in place, new earth ran to factory body earth for basslink

    factory rear speaker housings removed so i can felt behind the fixing points to hopefully stop the squeaks from when they were taking out for the coilovers 10 years ago lol

    new kurzy headlight loom ran into place - OE connectors made it so much cleaner 😄

    finally, got the Heko's on

    hopefully when it stops raining this week i can remember how the hell i refit the rear seats20211017_142210.thumb.jpg.8fe205019ff0e8a3dea58ac16e8a65eb.jpg

  16. Posted

    On 10/16/2021 at 10:19 PM, seanl82 said:

    One of my relays (2 relay system) has just died so I've disconnected it all. Need to investigate further but don't think is due to moisture as it's Velcro'd to the battery and underneath the cover. Imagine it's just sticking or a dry solder joint as it's been in place about 6 years.

    the relays can stick & fail at some point but is an easy fix

    i hope it didnt happen when you were out driving at night!

  17. Posted

    On 10/16/2021 at 2:32 PM, Keyo said:

    Good point I could be unwillingly building a small pond for them to sit in - I will probably will just 3m tape to battery inside my thermo battery bag. 

    i can understand the desire to want to protect the relays & fuses but ive ran these looms in both my rado's for around 10 years & apart from 1 relay failing ive never had any issues - these were both the version without the OE connectors as well, so just well taped up spade connectors

    by sheer coincidence i was fitting my new loom yesterday but didnt quite finish as i was charging the battery

    im pretty sure i have managed to route it so that i can attach the relays to the side of the washer bottle which will make taking the battery out easier & also put them in a position where water shouldnt get to them

    i will get some pictures when it has stopped raining 

  20. Posted

    1 hour ago, Kempy said:

    I think my pumps are ok. Anyone know if it's easier to siphon the old fuel out through the boot with the lift pump taken out?

    siphon is simple m8 from the filler cap, literally shove a hose pipe down there & suck

  21. Posted

    6 minutes ago, Dox said:

    Cold starts running on heavy mixtures (choke in old money) and long idling doesn't really create enough heat to keep plugs clean. You must have heard the scenario of the car owned by the old guy who never revved above 1500 RPM, only used the car to supermarket or church leading to rough running, then the new owner uses it normally and after a few week of normal use the car has a new lease of life? In a similar vain the ubiquitous Italian tune? Petrol on long runs cleans off contaminents off the back of the inlet valves too, build up here traps vapours and creates droplets instead.

     

    DPFs in modern diesels need heat from a fast run to burn soot trapped inside the DPF to turn it to ash

    yeah that all makes sense - i just wondered as i always let all me cars warm up on idle for a good few minutes before i drive off but then i also always go the long way on short journeys to give them a run

  22. Posted

    7 minutes ago, Kempy said:

    It's not MOt'd no, not been for a few years now. It does start mind, but only being able to drive on a small stretch of road behind the house. It's like it has poor throttle response. A new issue for it is that it was getting stuck in 1st gear(this feels like more of a selector issue to be) so there is probably a few things to worry about but I can start by having fresh fuel in it at least 

    poor throttle response could well be a gunked up throttle cable - how does the go pedal feel under foot?  is it very stiff in both directions?

    once you have emptied the tank, filled with fresh & got it running again you can manually move the throttle from under the bonnet - this should give you a feel for where the lack of response is

    the gear selector on top of the gear box can become very stiff & sticky when sat for that long - get it sprayed well with wd40, leave to soak & then start manipulating the gear selector itself

    it took a good half hour at least of wriggling on my 16v to get the selector moving freely again

  24. Posted

    my 16v refused to run on the old fuel but after draining the tank, filling with fresh 99ron, fully charged battery & a can of easy start sprayed around she fired up after a few turns

    it is worth whipping your spark plugs out to check for their condition

    also have a spray of wd40 on & around the alternator belts etc

    as long as your length of hose is long enough & the container you are emptying is lower than the fuel tank it is easy to siphon 

    as for idle adjustment, AFIK there is a small idle screw you can play with but it is very sensitive so very small adjustments when you do

  25. Posted

    Just now, Kempy said:

    It's 92. No I've not taken any old fuel out just put new into the tank. I've got a pond/flood type pump I could use maybe to empty it. 

    hmmm how much old fuel was in there?

    it would have been preferable to drain the old stuff first

    92 is an early i think so shouldnt have an anti-siphon filler so should be easy to get the majority out

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