Ado1379

Thanks for the reply, I ended up getting a new old stock part from Germany. The MOT is due on tuesday so was on a but of deadline.

As above if anyone has one? The locator pin on mine has snapped. Part number stamped 027 109 111H

Sorry i forgot to post again. Im all sorted on this now. Thanks though 👍

Hi I have a set of ABF cams here. Was going to swap them out on my car but then discovered it already had KR cams on. Im not sure what they are worth though

Does anyone have an instrument cluster loom for a '94 2.0 16v? Mine is almost burnt to a crisp.

I should have stated that im a 14 year avionics engineer so elwctronic principles are kind of my thing. Iver ordered a new voltage regulator as they arent expensive. So ill replace that anyway. My question still stands though, has anyone come accross anything that would cause high resistance even once the engine is running? As i said there is a good bonding between battery, block, and chassis.

Okay so still on this issue. Changed the sensors and found out where those wires terminate to. So i now have a new issue. On start up, the battery light stays on. Battery reading 11.7v with alternator running. Give it a rev and it jumps to 13.6 - 13.7v. I think i may have a earthing issue but here is what i have found: -All earths read 0 Ohms with engine off (including casing to the alternator) -With engine running, all engine earths read 0.8 Ohms but the casing to the alternator is 2.8 Ohms. I have replaced all earth straps and cleaned all earth studs. Still no difference. I have had this car for just over a month now, and drove it all the way from Manchester to Belfast with no issues. The only work I have carried out is replace the front engine mount. Surely this would not cause these issues? Can anyone shed some light on why all resistance between chassis and engine to the battery increases with the engine running?

You are correct in both sensors earthing to the block. The gauges themself need earthing also. And i believe this wiring is definately the issue. Ive reterminated them to the bracket that holds the instrument cluster in and took it for a drive. A lot less irratic and oil temp topped out at 118 degrees. Although when i turn ut off and immediately back on it reads 96 degrees. I think the earth point isnt great so i will find a better one tomorrow but all good so far. Now need to find out what caused this problem in the first place! Thsnks for your help

Been chasing fault with my instrument cluster for a while now. My water temp and oil temp on the MFA are not that reliable. -The water temp would sometimes sit at 110 degrees or it would correctly sometimes. -The oil temp reads perfectly when Idling staying at 102 degrees for as long as the engine is running. As soon as i go for a drive it climbs up to 160 degrees, but if i turn the car off and immediately start it again and flick the MFA over to oil temp it will be reading 110 degrees or so. The whole coolant system is brand new, The oil is brand brand new with new filter and new sensors. Now here is the good bit... I took the clocks out so i could replace some bulbs and have general look around behind there and noticed 2 burnt out pins on the instrument plug. Traced the wire back and all i can say is (as i have only had the car for less than a month) someone is extremely lucky they didn't burn the car out! ( see pictures) Now what i need is a wiring diagram for 1994 2.0 16v. I have found a few online but they don't seem to correlate with what i am seeing albeit i only had a quick look. The burnt out pins are 3 and 5, and i have a feeling these are ground. This could explain my dodgy readings as i would expect the resistance to be off. But either way this needs sorting.

I was thinking it was maybe stuck open. In the end i replaced the whole water pump assembly with new thermostat. I have flushed it out twice and have a new radiator and temperature sender turning up tomorrow too. I thought whilst ive drained the coolant and got the water pump off i may aswell replace most of the cooling system as it all probably 30 years old.

Never mind i've sorted it

Hi guys I have recently bought a 2.0 16v Corrado in Dragon Green. After driving it home I noticed it sits at about 80 degrees when constant driving and can creep up to 110 degrees (at this point i shut the car off) when in traffic. I'm thinking a stuck thermostat. I also noticed the alternator belt is tightened up way past the last tooth on the tensioner so ill be replacing this too. First question, where abouts is the thermostat? is it underneath the car attached to the water pump? And secondly, how do loosen the second belt so i can get the alternator belt off?I have loosened a few bolts under there but nothing has moved as of yet. Once this is done it'll be an oil change and a few other bits and i can start properly enjoying it!