eugopnosaj

Ok cool, well i think the alternator finally died so I'm going to put my old one back in till i can find one. Is it the B3 Passat that I need?

Which (cars) alternators would be a suitable replacement for the stock 65amp for my 16v? Since it left the factory I've added a few extras which will probably cause the alternator to start to strain after a while; ICE, heated seats, uprated loom etc So I'm thinking 90amp will probably fit the bill The original one started to whine a bit so I replaced it with another 65amp alternator I had (from another 'rado) but I think this one is worse as its making even more noise... Are the pulleys interchangeable from that off of a valver (V-belt) and that from a G60/VR6 (ribbed) ie could I put my pulley onto one that was originally for a ribbed belt? Also I'm going to assume that the mountings will possibly be different? Correct me if I'm wrong Jay

Brilliant thanks :) I'd like to get it done asap if that's alright. I usually finish work around 11 so I can always pop over during the week if you're free, if not then this weekend is fine :)

leeeeshad, there are a couple of places near me, Kwikfit included but they all do it to standard values, i can provide any figures given to me on here but they wont provide a warranty on the work. Thanks for the suggestion though Providing excellent service as usual David, this sounds perfect to me. The track rod adjusters aren't seized as I had to replace N/S track rod end for the MOT and O/S was an advisory so I replaced that too (although the nut section to clamp onto has seen better days but nothing a vice grip can't solve). When do you think I might be able to come and see you? Would love to come and see your 8v too :) Yeah I did a bit of researching after you posted and came up with a few similar situations. I think for piece of mind I'll go and see David and his father but I'll probably use this method further down the road and on my mini project

whoa indoor voice lol, I was hoping for a response as you didn't specify so I perceived it as positive because you didn't put - or + next to it :grin:

Oh it wont be for track use, not yet anyway, not while its being used as a daily (or until I buy a VR lol). 1° positive sounds good to me and ill set it up for 0 toe as well. Thanks I am interested in your material list RowanVW; '2 pieces of bar and some string', sounds like an interesting diy and I am intrigued to find out a bit more

Thanks for your reply, well, I use the car as a daily but on open clear roads...well you know :lol: . Obviously I want the best handling that I can get as she bump steers like crazy at the moment. I've read on here that toe in is the best for stability, what value would work best for that. I've replaced both track rod ends so they'll be easy enough to do its just the caster I'm a bit apprehensive about. Sitting the car on axle stands will only be good though if the driveway is completely flat surely or will I be able to compensate for this using a camber gauge?

Ok so i had to replace my shocks; lowered => standard => back to lowered again and now obviously the geometry settings are all over the place. I've phoned around a few places this morning, most of which don't do geometry alignment, with the only one doing it saying they cannot do it on a lowered car because the specification they have got is for a standard suspension set up. Does anyone on here know what the values should be? Its running on a 40mm drop front and rear. Also is it easy for me to do myself? I'll get the tracking laser aligned but I've spent so much already (as is always the Corrado way) and £77 is a lot to fork out especially if they get the figures wrong. They said if I get the values then they can do it but they won't be liable if they are incorrect.... Any suggestions are appreciated Jay

Search is your friend. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91230 download the wiring diagrams from there, you should find all the information in one of those pdfs :)

brilliant, thanks

Does anyone know the thread size of the wheel bolts? Specifically a valver (but I doubt they'd be different for a G60/VR6) I've tried search on here but found nothing. I'm only wondering as per insurance instructions they want locking bolts on my alloys and none of our thread making tools seem to fit the bolt. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Locking-Wheel-Nut-Bolts-VW-Corrado-4s-/380292138276?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item588b2d8524#ht_2164wt_1139 This listing on Ebay suggest they are M14 x 1.25 whereas these ones suggest M12 x 1.5 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-CORRADO-4-STUD-LOCKING-ALLOY-WHEEL-LOCK-BOLTS-NUTS-/400177398556?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item5d2c6e831c#ht_3612wt_1228 Length is correct on both of them being 25/26mm. Any suggestions, I think someone previously mentioned 1.5 but obviously I dont want to ruin the thread especially since I've just replaced my rear brakes already :lol:

My bad, I stand corrected :salute:

My central locking fuse blew which also caused the MFA settings to keep resetting themselves, its a single one on top of the fuse box about 30amp i think (or maybe 20amp). It would make sense if the alarm system is making more noise because its probably realising that its not locking. My car beeps again if i close the door and not lock it properly...

Ok so update, I went to GPC with my old sensor and we compared the two; the one I had was part number 191 927 807D and is for earlier cars whilst the one he had was 1H0 927 807A and is for later cars. Anyway the only difference between the two is the length, the later one (1H0 927 807A) is shorter by about 10inches however it will fit on earlier cars just fine if you unclip the connector from its housing under the rear bench, or like me, i made an extension from the old sensor and an interior loom i got from _Andy_. I didnt cut the new one up just used the old connector and its counterpart from the loom to extend it (i made it before i realised it would fit). I put the key in the ignition with the sensor not attached and the ABS light didnt go out, plugged the sensor in, turned the ignition and the light goes out! :) TPS price (1H0 927 807A): £82 TPS price (191 927 807D): £123 GPC price (1H0 927 807A): £19.99 (+ £3 if you get it delivered) Hopefully this will help other people out there who might need to replace it and don't want to pay high prices

Ive just rebuilt my rear set up, when i took mine apart the nut was just as loose as yours but i didnt have any play in the rear wheels. My dad (who used to be a mechanic and own his own garage) has suggested to tighten the nut as much as i could just using a ratchet and then taking it for a spin once ive bled the brakes, i haven't put the split pin on it yet incase i need to loosen/tighten the nut. I dont know what the book suggests the correct torque setting for the nut is so i dont know loose it might need to be. The washer has a notch built into it and sits in another notch on the stub axle, have you checked whether it was sitting properly? The bearings are pretty tough and tightening it shouldnt cause them to break, how much play does the caliper have? Is it the caliper that is moving or the carrier?

Well I spoke to the guys at gpc and he has a late one and cannot understand the difference so he suggested to head there with mine to see any differences. Tps werent helpful when I asked them...

Subject: ABS sensor advice I re posted it because it was suggested that i try the drivetrain section and more people would look in there....so could you move this one instead then for me please

Ok i need to replace one of my rear ABS sensors as one is broken, TPS want £130ish for one and unipart £70ish. GSF have one for £43 i think but i have looked online and VWspares have 2 online (with different prices) with part numbers 191 927 807D and 1H0 927 807A/191 927 807A (depending on what site you look at)...after looking at vagcat and other sites mine should be 191 927 807D however there isnt anything different between them, lengths are the same, connectors the same, look physically the same and the ages for the cars are both are the same (according to autospares) only difference is chassis number which however contradicts the age....i dont understand why mine is the more expensive one...can anyone shed any light on why this might be?

Is there no-one that can offer any advice?

VWspares have 2 online with part numbers 191 927 807D and 1H0 927 807A/191 927 807A (depending on what site you look at)...after looking online mine should be 191 927 807D however there isnt anything different between them, lengths are the same, connectors the same, look physically the same and the ages for the cars are both are the same (according to autospares) only difference is chassis number which however contradicts the age....i dont understand why mine is the more expensive one...can anyone shed any light on why this might be?

haha no, stealers want £130ish for a new one and unipart £70ish! Not sure about GSF they havent got any rears on their site however the fronts are only around £15, there is another company in Luton called GPC and they want £21 for one but i dont know if they're open tomorrow....

VWspares have 2 online with part numbers 191 927 807D and 1H0 927 807A/191 927 807A (depending on what site you look at)...after looking online mine should be 191 927 807D however there isnt anything different between them, lengths are the same, connectors the same, look physically the same and the ages for the cars are both are the same (according to autospares) only difference is chassis number which however contradicts the age....i dont understand why mine is the more expensive one...can anyone shed any light on why this might be? As the title states i really need a rear abs sensor, as the mot is next week and without it i cannot rebuild my rear o/s brake set up. Price + postage to MK please (unless you're localish and i can come and pick it up) Regards, Jason

As delfinis says I got one of mine repaired at pristine in woburn, they did a good job and rebalanced it for me, it costs 45 per wheel to do and the mark where the dent was was only really noticeable on the underside, think they painted over the chip from the dent too but cant remember, hth! :)

We fitted one from the 'bay into my mates mk1 MR2, simple enough to do as it provides colour coded wires and a handbook, it included a shock sensor, door open switches, remote central locking and auto lock etc, it all depends if you're happy cutting your loom up. The previous owner of mine clearly enjoyed cutting up mine....

Reviving my old thread Ok so since I have had to do some work on the C for her MOT and part of that was to replace my springs I have found, after trawling the internet and various sites (that needed translating) I have worked out that my springs (and quite possibly the shocks also) are made my a company called Autotecnhics; the stamp VW011 VA means that the springs are for the front and VW010 HA are rear springs, I have also concluded that the 26/02 is probably a date. Unfortunately now im running standards at the front and lowered at the back, obviously this is going to alter the ride and handling but for its mot and until i can get new springs it is all i can do. I need to work out how much the car was lowered by so i can replace the springs, also whether it was the same at the front and the back. My question is can i use different springs on the same shocks, ie if my car was lowered by 40mm can i use springs that will lower it by 60mm on the same shocks that were for the 40mm springs or is that just stupid :lol: Also is there anyway to work out what kinda drop I had on the car, bare in mind i've already put the standards on and removed the springs from the shocks...