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oneohtwo

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Everything posted by oneohtwo

  1. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Ah nice work, thanks. How did you get them to show? I linked the wrong last image, but they're still not loading for me.
  2. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Update on this: Success! I redesigned the insert with a tab on one side instead of the big flange in the hope it would push through and spring back out, to clip in. That didn't entirely happen, as the tab just compacted in the hole, and then sheared off. However, it did mean the insert is extremely tightly wedged in, so that it is actually secure. I certainly couldn't shift by pushing down on it on a bench, so I went ahead and installed it, and it worked! Ran perfectly and there's absolutely no play in the system. No more wipers hitting anything! This is what it looks like: https://am3pap007files.storage.live.com/y4myI3eneG6JOEv2jfdAiWnmOC0PFmg8jqVFVwHat7GSdjQEaHTKdMKUTZZLOD4zD6hIhx0sQ9dv3dlj_SqDsqQ2DyiW0E8SlDEeHlIStp6lOinzafdWwBIXChX6yRjWBZQBaiz1_F61okD7oSaC0-UpLYRtDPo6zFmLZj_NaEUH-qJOuGfZO5zVzKy4FoMf7Ld?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none https://am3pap007files.storage.live.com/y4mfMSETEjD3LF139vV6VP_LANSE3KgMeyO-cQE_6lnVQRfEmSAVkm3dUJfNb4fhc4vR8GPfFS165A4JP2UXMyaRAG_fJCuX7EfRlokNpGxFFHBfx1KEn0UtXHHgFneNBBU_oPErdX-dYj3cTik_WtU8a3qF4J4q8a2P-01o5iz9XF1RaAlp8A0KZgt0P28pzCS?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none And installed: https://am3pap007files.storage.live.com/y4maM1NwFspZgBSkK-6_FPd9biHzz8QbXKCNUSCJFjMEhDcuEkN5ChnPkhXn1QsAQCxpkFyrbwH9ikAmKK1nlDY_hC9iqu0JiT80K8DE--MrcUNxNgH5XG32d9uaL4Od_sQtoHPS5rwt2V6tQT71Vi9MmG9yW6wTkjmcVvdbHkzYitvYtisdvLzpJsfjnSY1N9X?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none You can see the tab has compressed, so it is held in by friction. And this is it installed in the linkage: https://am3pap007files.storage.live.com/y4mfMSETEjD3LF139vV6VP_LANSE3KgMeyO-cQE_6lnVQRfEmSAVkm3dUJfNb4fhc4vR8GPfFS165A4JP2UXMyaRAG_fJCuX7EfRlokNpGxFFHBfx1KEn0UtXHHgFneNBBU_oPErdX-dYj3cTik_WtU8a3qF4J4q8a2P-01o5iz9XF1RaAlp8A0KZgt0P28pzCS?width=1024&height=576&cropmode=none You can see that even just being held in by friction the insert isn't going to pull out of the link arm as it's acting in the opposite direction. And the ball joint is nicely held by the shape of the insert so that isn't going to pop off either. It's very snug and tight, but does allow rotation and swivel around the ball joint. I do have some videos of it in action, but unfortunately they haven't uploaded properly. I will post if I can get those uploaded. So, I think we have a solution! I have, however, only just twigged about JJBRADO's suggestion of a circlip for some reason, so that might offer a bit more security especially if other people wanted some and were nervous about it just being pushed in. The 3D printed versions also seem up to the job, so I am not sure whether to continue exploring CNC machining options. The finish isn't amazing, but seems good enough. I am happy to run with these for a while in day to day use just to see how they hold up, in case other people wanted to get a better idea of durability first. They may not be as durable as the originals but I think we just have to consider them a disposable item that we can swap out when they get worn. Either way I am happy to take views on this. Let me know! EDIT: I can't get the pictures to load for some reason. Normally they just embed straight away. Will try again later.
  3. 😂 They certainly got the stopping bit sorted... Thanks on the MAF tip, that backs up my initial question so I will get some cleaner on it first. Clunk is still a bit of a mystery. Checked the bumper bolts and all seem tight. Haven't looked at the drop links yet, but I'd have hoped the mechanic who did the tracked would have noticed these when I asked him to look for anything. But you never know, so will go there next. Think I may have to take it to a garage to get to the bottom of it.
  4. Oh yes, I remember your travails. Glad you got it sorted. I'll have a look at the bolts, good thinking.
  5. Hello Folks, Got two odd issues I thought I'd combine into one thread for ease. First an odd rattle/clunking coming from (I think) the engine bay. This has been going on for months and I keep finding loose things, tightening them up thinking it'll fix the issue but it doesn't. I got the tracking checked and corrected and asked the mechanic to look for anything loose under the car, but no dice so I think the drivetrain is fine. But now I think I have traced it to the gear shift tower as it appears to be the only thing loose left in the engine bay and when I waggle it (the mechanism with the counter weight) it seems to make a similar sort of sound. The rattle/clunking happens when going over bumps and rough road (unsurprisingly) but also at slow speeds when lifting off (although may happen at speed as well and I just can't hear it). Sometimes there's not much rattle, but others a lot. Sometimes there's a bit of a clunk. Sometimes it's more a shaking rattling type noise. Could this be the gear shift tower? Obviously it needs to be able to move freely, but I've never noticed it rattle like that before. All the nuts and bolts appeared to be tight on it, and there's no issue changing gear. I'll try and get a helping hand for someone to rattle it whilst I sit in the car to see if it sounds the same from inside, but in the meantime does this sound plausible and anyone got any reason why it would be? Second issue is the engine stalled whilst I was slowing down from 70 to 40 on the motorway for some road works. It was what I'd describe as a leisurely gear change down, so when I put the clutch in and before I had selected a gear I noticed all the red lights flash up on the dash. No real dramas as I popped it back in gear, gave it a bit of throttle and bump started again, but it's not something you want occurring. This used to occasionally happen, particularly when hot, when pulling up to junctions etc. where the idle would drop too far and stall. However, I have refreshed a lot of the throttle body area: new ISV, new dashpot, new PCV, clean throttle, and removed the slack in the throttle cable, so it is generally running pretty smoothly. The throttle shouldn't be snapping shut too quickly for the ISV to respond due to the dashpot and the ISV shouldn't be sticking. I am therefore wondering if possibly it's the MAF and that could do with a bit of a clean? The other things I haven't renewed are the fuel pressure regulator, and Cam position sensor.
  6. I typed a reply to this, but apparently it didn't submit! Anyway, I think I slightly misunderstood, as per fendervg, you do need to get the heater box out. I got mine out without taking the dash out, just the centre console and under dash trims. I don't recall it being too much of an issue after that. Think the bolts through the bulkhead were the hardest part. I used felt from a hobby shop, and if you can get sticky backed then that's probably better. If not chose your glue carefully. I used a household general purpose glu (gorilla glue from memory) but it smelled quite bad for a long time after. Still smells a bit odd on heater setting, but don't know if that's the glue or something else. Also take care that the felt doesn't foul the hinges. I made a piece slightly too big so it slightly obstructs the hinge, and I can't "click" the temperature dial at the end of turning it all the way to cold.
  7. I'll just put my name down in this thread as well, in case numbers build enough for a re-run. Driving in France recently wasn't super fun with the Corrado headlights!
  8. I may have misunderstood, but yes as per fendervg you need to get the heater box out. I took it out without removing the whole dash. Think I gave myself a bit of time and did it over a weekend, but it's not a massively time consuming job. Be careful what glue you use to stick the felt on though. I used a fairly normal household glue (gorilla glue I think, just the general purpose stuff) but it smelt quite bad for a while when I had the blower on. Still smells a bit odd if I have the flaps open to the heater, not sure if that is the glue or not these days, as it's been a good 10 years or so since I did it. Also be careful to ensure the felt doesn't obstruct the hinges. I cut mine a bit too large so when turned to fully cold the knob doesn't quite "click" into place at the end of the turn.
  9. It is, I've done myself. Was a fair while ago though, but I don't recall it being a major hassle. I don't remember much specific though unfortunately. I think once the under dash trim and centre console is all out it's fairly straightforward. I think the screws through the bulkhead were the most difficult.
  10. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Update on this, the 3D printed parts arrived, and actually they're not bad. They look like this: I had them vibro polished which made the finish a bit smoother, not really sure if they would be appropriate for the final product, but I feel better about it as an option now. However, the main issue is getting them in the link arm. I had envisaged this being an issue, as above I am fairly sure the originals are moulded onto the link arm, but hoped that a solution may present itself once I had them. However, having given it ago it's a definite no, as there's no way I can see that the flange goes through the hole even with a bit of heat. So a bit of a redesign is needed. I think the solution is to reduce the size of one flange and turn it into a chamfer that will initially fit in the hole and then hopefully push through. Probably have to be after Christmas now. But this has given me hope that we could solve this!
  11. Hmm, not sure. Maybe I didn't get a good enough mix of hardener. Seems an odd product though as there are plenty of reviews online that have had the same issues as me, and others which it's been fine for. On Amazon, it's got a rating of 2.7 stars. The reviews are either 1 or 5 star!
  12. Ah interesting. Did you do it long ago, and has held up since?
  13. Just on 2K aerosols, avoid HB Body C496 clear coat. I used this on my slam panel and radiator support, and it now looks awful. Initial finish was very good, but apparently it just didn't harden, and has reacted with all the dirty water that gets flicked up onto that area from inside the engine bay, so much so that the stains are now embedded into the clear coat. In one area it looks like cracked wax, and overall it has since orange pealed really badly. It dissolved as soon as it came in contact with a splash of petrol and was so soft there are more chips on the bit below the headlights and grill than before I repainted it. I think it may now be hardened, and I'll have to tackle all the problems in the summer but it's deeply frustrating. I wish I had seen the reviews online before I bought several cans of the stuff as I am not the only one that has had this issue.
  14. Yeah, I've no idea why the middle one is there. Somebody obviously put it it there at some point, and there's a hole for it. At least it means i have a spare though! It's an odd design though, I don't really know why the trim can't just clip to the metal.
  15. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Yes, this is exactly the problem. It makes the system very slack, and whilst it's a small rotation at the spindle, when translated over the length of the wiper arm it's quite a big movement. I have just about set my wipers up to avoid hitting with the pillar or scuttle, but it still gives over time. I don't think the fixing into the scuttle panel is very good either. It's just a plastic collar in the hole with a thin washer on the other side. There are only 4 small tangs on the actual spindle which don't get much bearing, so there's not a lot to prevent it moving. The drivers side isn't as bad as it's braced by the motor bracket, but the passenger side it's quite flimsy. Anyway, 3D printed test part is on order so fingers crossed this will work!
  16. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Had a quote back on the CNC machining and it's a lot better than the vacuum moulding. That should make a group buy more achievable I think, perhaps around the £20 a pair mark. So what I will do now is get a prototype printed as this isn't too much and see how it fits. Then if all good I will put up a group buy.
  17. Spent a bit of time over the weekend on the scuttle area. Took the wiper trims off and cleaned everything out: Also lucked out on ebay and chanced upon someone selling 4 unbroken white plastic clips that always snap off, so now I have a full set. Still managed to break one in the process of getting the trim back on, but at least I had a spare. Also the very middle clip doesn't actually seem to be used - there's no corresponding tab on the trim, so I guess that is also a spare? Definitely a technique to getting the trim on and off, have to carefully lift at the front then push backwards. The drivers side is the trickiest, don't think the fit is as good. Whist I had the trim off I moulded a little recess to allow the TT wiper arms to rotate, and then resprayed with the U-Pol plastic paints. Incidentally, really good paint. Easy to use and the finish is excellent. Smartens up that area of the car anyway:
  18. Slam panel looks lovely, did you paint it yourself? Interesting the Aqua blue looks a bit, well Aqua in those pics. Slight turquoise tint, which would make sense with a name like Aqua Blue. Mine always has a bit more of a purple tint. Maybe just the camera!
  19. Simple answer is to move into the garage! God, I wish I had that when rebuilding my engine, lots of light, plenty of space and I bet it's fully heated as well. Just noticed it looks like you've got a cover on the windscreen wiper motor?
  20. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    Right, this is where I have got to so far: Initially I tried to see if I could replace the plastic bushes/bearings with off the shelf nylon flanged bushes, with a slightly smaller diameter than the ball joint. The idea being that with a bit of heat and a vice the bush would expand over the ball joint to grip it tightly and also expand into the hole in the link arm to lock into place. Had to cut them down substantially and it sort of worked but I wasn't massively happy with it, and you'd still need to use those metal clips to lock it into place. So I looked at developing a replacement for the original plastic insert and have modelled it in 3D CAD. I thought about 3D nylon printed initially but have dismissed this due to the rough surface finish, that would also be porous. Not ideal for a bearing surface. I am currently trying to get some quotes for CNC machining the part out of nylon, which should give a reasonable finish. However, the only way this is economical, due to machine set up, is with a group buy. Looking at Nylon due to its wearing and natural lubrication properties. At a push I'd guess the originals are the same. Further things that need consideration are with actually getting the part installed. Looking at the original I am fairly sure it is stamped/moulded in place onto the link arm. There're some indents on the link arm around the holes, and these can be seen imprinted on the back of the original bushes I have removed. Trying to push a new part in could be difficult, but there's a possibility I could make the flanges a bit smaller to make this easier. Also the bushes are slightly different at each end. at the motor end the bush has two lugs, which as far as I can see stop it rotating too much on the mount. However, I don't know if these are essential. I have also had a quote for a vacuum injection process that uses a silicon mould for small batches of up to about 20. This is obviously much cheaper than full injection moulding. However, it would be in Polyurethane not Nylon and I don't know how this would compare for this application. I know you get Polyurethane bushes for suspension and drive train parts, but as far as I am aware these contain metal bearing surfaces. The cost for this would potentially work out somewhere around £50 a bush if there were 10-20 takers. Although if we were to go with identical bushes at each end this would be more like £50 a pair, which could be a bit more palatable, but still pricey. So I think my plan is, get a couple of prototypes 3D printed just to test fit. Then, if it all works OK see if the CNC machining quotes come back at all reasonable, and propose a group buy. I think these should be better than the vacuum moulding to be honest, from CNC machine quotes I have had previously. Anyway, thoughts welcome!
  21. oneohtwo

    Wiper linkage

    By chance yes, I'm currently working on some options for replacing the bushes so hopefully will get something that works. I will report back if successful so maybe watch this space!
  22. Yeah that looks like the FCM. The wiring diagram is a bit different for the VR. There's only 1 resistor in the fan motor there rather than two for the VR, so I don't think my setup would be quite right for it. Does it say what T1v and T1x are, I don't really recognise the symbols? If you can work out the resistance of the resistor in the motor I would have thought it would be quite straightforward to connect up to replicate the OEM. Presumably there's a three pin connector on the back of the motor?
  23. Ohh yes, sorry I missed you said G60. I don't know if the OEM fan motor is the same for the G60 as the VR, but it has a smaller radiator doesn't it, so I am guessing it is different? In which case the resistors I have used might not be appropriate. Not sure how it would work without the FCM as well. Likewise unsure about the manual override. Sorry, not the most helpful post, I am not too familiar with the G60 I'm afraid!
  24. All still appears to be functioning well. No issues thus far, fans always come on and temps are kept in check. I drove to Stealth on that hottest day of the year in the middle of the heatwave and they just about kept the water temp below 110 when driving slowly. There are a couple of things I would do slightly differently if I were to repeat: 1) Find a neater way to mount the resistors and plug mounting. The resistors are tucked down the side between the battery and headlight, but it doesn't look the neatest. And where I have the plug housing I can't get the battery out without removing the fan housing, which means removing the front end. Not ideal. The Varta batteries are slightly oversized for the tray so may not be an issue with a normal sized battery. 2) I'd possibly wire speed 1 through a single bigger resistor just to neaten up the wiring. Not a big issue either way though. I quite like this setup because it replicates the OEM exactly, and all 3 speeds work as per the original. Mounting the resistors is a bit of a pain though so it's not quite as simple as the Humble Mechanic setup that ABV posted, but with my car I would rather have both fans coming on for speed 1 on balance.
  25. Missed this before, that's absolutely gutting and a worst nightmare. It's definitely a fear I had living in London. Has there been any news?
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