aide

well tbh i'd looked around for a webber fire breather for ages, and that double arrangement was me trying to make something similar, that creation and my tests weren't very scientific, the problem i had is the TB alloy is so soft that the apertures distorted when they were welded, so when i inserted the butterfly's they didn't match perfectly and i had 1500rpm idle :) the throttle response didn't feel any better (from a 1500 rpm idle :lol: ) but i was more interested in better in gear accelleration and top end, neither of which felt any better, pretty subjective i admit, maybe its because i'm always concious of imagining gains that aren't there :shrug: if i was doing it again i'd get a machine shop to make the apertures perfectly circular and then get butterfly's fabbed to suit, maybe in conjunction with greater displacement and p&p'd head it would have worked better, all i was running at the time was a four branch and the exhaust cam mod.

i made this years ago - two throttle body halves welded together, and the manifolded adjusted to suit.......difference in power??? as dave says... none, live & learn eh :lol:

i always like the 'just cleaned smell' doesn't happen much or last long on mine tho :D

yep that helped killed the idea for us, h&s risk galore as so many things to look out for in that sort of enviroment. if they haven't got an assistant guy, then maybe they've arranged a disclaimer to sign before using :shrug:

good stuff, i know others on here did a business case for this type of venture, and i looked into it too, good to see someone making a go of it, though i guess it makes even better sense in these austeer times with people preferring to maintain than buy new? would be keen to see how it operates, as the initial capital outlay was pretty huge with the building, equipment and tools, and then you had the health & safety issues to consider. i'll be getting booked in straightaway if one opens locally :D

if i was doing normally aspirated 16v performance gains i'd do the following; - general tune up, fuel and spark delivery and timing - k&n panel filter - weber (single bigger butterfly) throttle body - exhaust as inlet mod, or maybe abf or piper cams - warm up regulator (wur) mod - four branch manifold - 2ltr bottom end - gasflowed, or even ported head - 50mm manifold there's plus/ minuses to the above, some you'll lose low rpm torque but gain top end power, i dont think you'll find gains that noticeable from what you're proposing tbh try the search with any of above, been covered lots, davidwort and others on here have well sorted valvers - worth keeping an eye out

hey cheers, i've been looking for smoke but not seen any, and the plugs looked fine when i changed them, its not overly thirty either :salute: i'm diagnosing problems i don't have :D

yep, should clarify, if mine and ir6 are running below 70degs all the time then we're always running rich

yep dead right, my stat opens at about 70 which is too low, i changed my yellow sensor when i drained the system thinking it may be screwy too.... then after refilling i bought the thermometer and noticed my top pipe was getting hot too quick :brickwall: its not a daily so going to live with it until the weather gets warmer :lol: and see what it does then, don't like the idea of it running rich on the warm up map though

crikey i think 70degs is very low for oil too, typical to run at 90 or over a 100 when blasting/ in summer! my water runs cool too, say 65deg in this freezing weather but i'm fairly certain someone put a low temp stat in, but my oil is always about 85/90, not sure if there is a typical correlation between the two as criticalmass above try vagcom, or a IR thermometer, these will at least confirm your temps so you're not chasing phantom figures maybe also look at the definitive cooling guide too, loads of good info in there

maybe monitor the upper rad pipe when warming up with your hand, or even better an infrared thermometer, if it gets hot before your needle moves it could indicate a stuck open stat equaling low running temps i reckon it's more likely to be a faulty temp guage tho, in my very humble experience the lowest i've had a vr run is 75 degs in winter, or 65degs with a low opening stat. does your oil run cool too?

nice 8)

cheers for the solvent tip, your prep looks good, did your wheels have much kerb damage? what did you use as filler if so, am thinking a silicone based filler may be easier than crumbly isopon? agree with you on the fogs, could do with being darker but looks better than standard for sure, think i'll go light on the heads and darker on the fog/ indis

the aux water pump would circulate heat round the matrix, and stats are designed to fail open. fans are controlled by the rad thermoswitch and the yellow sensor, have read at the definite vr cooling guide, good stuff in there. is there water being retured to the expansion bottle when warming up.... water pump/ impellor?

good work, like tints, did you get from laminx? also, just started refurbing a set of wheels, plan to paint gun metal/ dark gray similar to yours, what paint did you use there? and any tips? :D

swapped the front VW silver badge for black, applied first coat of paint to my new number plate light cover, and then carried on sanding back my first wheel ready for spraying.

often fancied a set of these but couldn't justify the hefty tag, its one of those tools you'll not use much, but when you do it saves a whole bunch of time, may take a trip down there tomorrow , cheers

looks good :salute: definitely something wrong with that back box, are you missing a hanger!?!

linky :) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=85437&hilit=longest+term+of+ownership

topic came up late last year, longest term of ownership i recall was 16/17yrs... by the guy i bought my latest off

i might have some, though i definitely snapped one, will have a look tomorrow if you still need

20v injectors won't need that kind of pressure, no nothing about transplants, but would think you'd have to restrict the supply pressure to suit

actually just thinking about this, the pump is capable of delivering .5gpm at 100psi, but pump/ fuel distributor line pressure should be around 70psi.... i think! and that said, pumps only create supply, restrictions in the system create the pressure :)

its up at about 70psi, can't recall exactly :scratch:

omg your legs!!!!! nice ride :) liking the lights and wheels, and black is best :)