PhatVR6

Is yours off a passat? actually, I have 2 tanks, one off a rallye, one off a jetta syncro, I will check they are the same.

I don't intend to keep them, I still don't really like them, unless they are black and with wider rims, which is what I'll be doing with these. They were cheap, and when refurbished, they will be worth a mint, I couldn't not buy them. I do have porsche wheels (2 sets actually!) but I'm having to have custom made hubs due to their offset.

see above, it touches the filler flap.

Awesome work dalj!

Ive decided to make up a spacer plate, to bolt to the car, then bolt the filler neck to that to drop it right down, 30mm should do it.

yeah, the 5th gear is accessible behind the black end cover. The number he's talking are the ratios between the teeth on the 5th pinion and driven gear. I've got a 0.75 6th in mine, the stock gemini ratio wouldn't have suited my 3.94, but the chaps at gemini kindly let me have a 0.75 at no extra charge. gave me 100mph at 4000rpm on 15"s.

that'll be the 3.94 final drive then!

no idea on the mileage I'm afraid, but it's out of a 1999 A3, albeit one that's been in a smash (although I know the gearbox didn't take a hit as hit the other corner. only £100 if you want it? in fact, you've probably stepped right over it, it was on the floor in front of my mates rallye when you came round the other week! yes, you would need a v56 bell housing. speak to stealth racing, he has loads of vr bits, and he'd be able to advise on the ratios in that box too. it was an 1999 A3 1.8T, with an AGU engine.

yes you can, but you need to make sure the gears are "right" first. I've got an audi A3 1.8T box sat heare going cheap if you fancy it? I think that's got a 3.9 final drive in it, I'll get the code off it. you'll have to change the drive flanges to 100mm ones though.

it's a 3rd-6th gearkit. you have to have a gearbox to have it fitted to. they don't make complete gearboxes, just gear kits and diffs.

Think Phat likes it really, why else would he copy it. copy it? errr. no. I didn't even know Lee's was dark burgundy pearl when I bought mine, I always thought it was black. the only other thing the same is the rieger grille, which mine is painted differently, and the arches are similar

Got the inner arches sealed back up at last, paint is still wet in these pics, hence why it looks a bit weird on some. Fuel tank is now in too, after I fitted that other bracket up on the left. note the use of new bolts and straps and brakcets throughout. unfortunately the filler neck sits too high for the corrado, and the neck does sit poprerly in the tank, this also means that the fuel filler flap won't shut properly. but check out the paintwork! I'll re drill the mounting flange for the filler neck to drop it down a bit, which should solve both of these problems.

best in the world?? it's a standard vr6!!!

well, that's the easiest way to do it, use the entire loom, you might as well if you have it! when I was on about ditching stuff I mean in the engine bay. the air pump and all that jazz, and the expansiontank on the other side, you don't need to do all that.

Vr box is an 02A. v6 4 motion, er32 and TT etc are an 02M. totally different design and family of gearbox, no parts are interchangeable. You can make the 02M fit, but like you have already pointed out, it requires custom brackets and shafts and it's a bit too big to fit in the A2/A3 chassis your best bet would be to buy that gemini/vw motorsport 6 speed off trippy, and put a vr6 bell housing on it. and change the shifter tower to an 02j (golfskoda 5 speed) and use the mk4 golf/ mk5 polo type shifter) get vince at stealth to build it, and consider a quaife or peloquin diff and final drive options whilst you're at it an having it rebuilt (3.6, 3.94 or 4.2 if you're mad! don't use the 3.3 final drive unless you plan a 400bhp turbo) I know I keep going in about it for years, but it really is one of the best things you can buy for a VR6. 200bhp is plenty for a fwd car, but the vr gearing kills it and totally ruins the car. My box must have cost me £2500 all in, but I can honestly say it was worth every single penny, I can't fault it at all and I have no regrets whatsoever (apart from not paying the extra £300 for the semi straight cut 1st and 2nd gears) about spending that sort of cash on a box full of oil and metal, because there's no way I'd have got the same sort of performance gain from spending the same amount on engine work. 13.75 1/4 mile with it in a golf, 14.444 with it in my corrado (with only 197bhp), 3rd place at Kames, 3rd and 4th places at curborough at clubgti track days, 2nd place overall in 2003 at york dragway, it's got to be doing something for me!

Buy some wheels that are meant to fit, or have hubs specially made. hub adapters suck.

1" too much for me then!

Ok, I confess, I ruined a perfectly good 8v, sorry guys.

these will be show wheels, I have other wheels for hard driving and track use. I don't want them poking past the arches either. I think my arches are pulled ever so slightyl wider than yours though lee, so I might be able to get away with rims the same size as yours.

currently ET33 7.5" wide. need new rims. I was going to salvage 2 of them and just take the rears out to 8.5" but no I've seen a few german cars running wider rims and they look absolutely amazing. so, dare I push for 9 or 9.5" on the back and 8"s or even cheeky 8.5"s up front?? Price is not much difference, they are about £100 each from Image, but I have to get it right first time. post up any pics of widened ones if you have any, especially if you kow the size of the rims.

It will be if you turbo or supercahrge it :-) have we scared you off the 4wd with our progress pics?! the 24v fits in a treat, no harder than a vr6, you can bin most of the mk4 sh1t off it and treat it just like a 12v.

someone overtightened it then get new copper washers too. it only has to be tight enough to crush the washer enough to form a seal.

there are people working on new chips that ignore the immobiliser and rear probes.

Time for a job I REALLY didn't want to do, make the downpipe fit better. Previously, I'd just battered the R32 one until I could get it to fit. Whilst that was good enough for the purposes of firing it up for the first time, it's not good engouh to use on the road for 2 reasons. 1 it's too restrictive, 2 it's too close to the steering rack. S close in fact it was actually touvhing the rubber boot, no good. So, I made up a wooden jig. so I could mount up the downpipe flanges, so they would stay in position when I cut the pipes out. and it also let me mount up the prop and make a fake bulkhead so I knew wher I could run the pipes without having to p1ss about welding under the car. it's upside down, but see how the pipe move over to go around the prop coupling? well it pushes the other pipe too close to the rack. I had to reshape the left one out of the way, so I could re-route the right one to be further away from the rack whilst maintaining the full bore size as much as possible instead of it necking down in funny shapes. simply moving it wasn't an option, as it' was already only a fingers thickness away from the prop. After much cutting and welding and grinding (10 hours infact) I ended up with this. It now arcs around the rack much higher, yet still goes past the prop coupling with plenty of clearance. Last job was to move the bottom section 15mm to the passenger side, so the cats would sit in the centre of the tunnel and clear the prop and the tunnel itself. I haven't finishwd this bit yet, hence the open pipe on the right. I ran out of wleding gas.

I can look on mine, I just plugged mine in. remind me on and I'll take a picture next time I'm in there.