PhatVR6

You don't HAVE to use it, but I'm a stickler for doing things as VW intended.

Yep, Eibach mk2 golf brace. I've tilted the throttle body back 45 degrees so it clears it. As for JBS, I started a thread questioning whether it was a real R32 lump in their mk2 because the number2 was wonky. I knew it was real, because I already had mine, I was just on the wind up as per usual. :-P

8)

Ah come on, I've had 3 engine in my corrado this year, beat that! :-P

It's not for me to say, if you want it there then vote for it to be put up.

New pics wiring all in now, just couldn't fire it up as I had no ECU relay, got one now though :D I will finally sort out this sodding DBW pedal box tomorrow. interior is totally gutted now, nothing in it except one of my new doors cards, just as a test PS, those who remeber my JBS wind up from the CGTI forum will know what the deliberate badge spacing is all about :wink:

OK mods, feel free to clear out all these replies to keep the thread clean and tidy. *Mod edit - thread tidied as requested - Henny* Right, off we go. First of all, take a look in your boot. this is the panel you will be removing. And replacing with this (amongst a few other bits which I'll show you later). I was lucky enough to buy this one, the very last one available in the UK brand new from Skipton VW for about £80. It is now discontinued. to get one you'd have to buy a Golf or Jetta syncro (same panel) or (God forbid) a Rallye and cut the shell up. The boot floor is about 4" higher than the stock early corrado one, about 2.5" higher that the later corrado one. Reason being, to facilitate the fitment of an integral rear crossmember (not shown), which not only gives the diff something to hang off, it also acts as a rear strut brace and stiffens the back of the car up. It's also raised to allow the fitment of the much taller syncro fuel tank, as the diff is naw taking up some of the space where the original tank was. You'll need one of these, along with it's associated wiring loom and holder and connectors. I got this out of a Jetta Syncro I scrapped. which is the freewheel lock controller. It basically controlles the valve onthe back of the diff which enables you to use the 4wd in reverse. Relay 87 (EDIT: it's 83 actually) if you must know.

That's it, I give in, I'm tryng my RS on the corrado before (if) I sell them.......I'm slowly warming to them............slowly :wink:

got some, but not tried em on my corrado. I'm running 288's anyway so I might not be able to help you. I can tell you how thick they are and the diameter if that'll help?

Hmm, not sure on mine on your list. bodywork has been sort of done, but just the arches and door handles and a few other bits. engine, well, I'm on my 3rd and I've only had it a year! I still reckon it was the quickest normally aspirated vr too, 14.4 1/4 mile. interior? you lot haven't seen that yet, but it's the same as asim's. transplant, you all know about those, the r32 and soon to be 4wd. all work in progress though. mines next years car, not this years. stik scruffydubbers up on the list, his is much more well known than mine. and double zero's is on the cover of this months pvw, so it can't be that bad! get it up/

Right, I'm going to be 4WDing my corrado shortly with a vr6 syncro system. Shall I put the pics and info in a dedicated thread like this, or should I just add the pics into my members gallery? Last time I started a new gallery for another section of my car I got flamed for it and told it should all be put into one, but I think it's worthy of a topic all on it's own don't you? Let me know before I start posting and upsetting anyone. If it's all positives for me to keep this thread open then I'll asl the mods to clear it all out when I have some pics to post up. cheers

yeah, get some more added on there. and after w eek kick off the ones with the least votes

it's a collector, to connect all the systems into the diagnostics port. you shoul have a grey and white wire and a yellow wire in it?

and I could win overall for doing everything! :wink:

shame that FWD isn't.....

bl0dy insurance is a pain in the ar5e. I've got a Clifford AvantGaurd G5 in mine, which is arguably the best alarm money can buy, yet it's not CAT approved becasue it has remote strat, even though it's a seperate unit which I haven't fitted yet. tw4ts. I told em it was a concept 50x instead. hopefully with the g5 and a tracker and a few other tricks it won't be going anywhere so I shouldn't ever have to claim for a theft. (touch wood)

Right, I want some lupo wipers, but this thread is far to long, and I can't be ar5ed to read it, can we just get the correct part numbers put in and FAQ and be done with it please.

wow, I'm honoured to be in that list considering the car has been in a constant state of build and never quite finished. I can thin of so many that dereve a vote for a particular part of the car, but I can't say there is one car that's more complete, i.e. with every are worked upon, that biggerbigbens 1.8T syncro, yet that's not on the list!

Well, haven't had time to touch it really, been working on the house and looking after my missus (she's just had an operation). Got the full go ahead to get back on with it now though, should hopefully have some better pics by sunday night (yeah, I know I've said that before....)

I did my VR6 one myself. I "gasket matched it". whcih basically means putting the inlet and exhaust gaskets on the bare head and drawing on the face of the head with a permantent marker on the area of head visibal inside the gasket holes. when you remove the gaskets you're left with a load of balck areas around each port. the idea is to remove that much material. I used a die grinder with a burr in it, running off my compressor. it tool me about a week of nights to do it. After reading a few hints and tips on it I decided to take their advice and concentrate on the valve seat area. you wouln'dt belive how much material you can remove. just feel with your fingers and you can feel where the bumps are and what needs to be removed. on the VR head the ports narrow down quite considerably where they bend around the head olt holes. there's lods of material you can remove in that area to straighten out the port. Once you have the shape right you ccan then move onto sanding drums to smooth out the rough finish the burrs leave. don't go too mad though, as a bit of rough is actually better for the intake air, if it's too smooth you'll get fuel drop out, where it will stick to the port walls as there won't be enough tubulence in the port to kee if mixed. When I got it on the car, the difference was noticable right away. it was REALLY smooth, but above 4000rpm it was an animal and really let the cams do their job, pulled strong as hell. 195bhp at 5000rpm and 200lbs/ft at 3500rpm can't be bad (couldn't take it any further as the car wouldn't sit still on the rollers). In your case, just get a 2.0 ABF lump and bin that k-jet sh1te instead of wasting any money on it. harsh but true....

only if you're valses are seating right though.........and leaks, and it won't work. as for the skimming issue, emasure the height of the head and I'll look it up in my russek manual (if I can still read it, a few pages of it have been soaking in oil for quite some time....)

the yellow one is actually 2 sensors in one. one for the clocks, one for the fan controller and run on pump (I think). definitely one for the clocks, as I have had to refit my yellow on in the 24v to get the 12v clocks working as the 24v one wasn't compatiable.

forgot to add. use the mk4 expansions tank and the pipes (which I have if you've binned then) to get it on the left turret out of the way, plenty of room for th boost hose then (if it'll fit on the left with the charger on?)

do this but obviously take the pipe further back, around the manifold, put the charge cooler in the battery spot and turn it 90 degrees., with both pipes pointing to the back of the engine bay. so your pipe from the charger goes in roughly where the PS bottle should be, then comes out of the CC near the engine and go striaght into the throttle body. where is your air flow meter going?

I've always thought is was 1250kg, not sure where I read that though. I reckon mines going to be about 1400 by the time it's got the 4wd in it and those ridiculously heavy seats and brakes :-(