seanl82
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Everything posted by seanl82
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Having had use of a 4 post a while back for a good amount of time, I can honestly say that it doesn't! Lol
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Haha, yeah the kids were busy writing in the dust. Was gonna tell them not to as it'll introduce micro scratches but thought sod it, it's harmless fun and let them crack on! It's a very high ceiling. I need to go and buy a good sized ladder just to use it for storage! A scissor or 2 post lift has crossed my mind, and been priced up as it happens! Lol. Think it may be out of the original intended budget but maybe in time........
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Unfortunately not mate. She's already decided we're eating into the garage where the fridge, washer, and dryer are in the pic. Moving the shower room into that alcove, and having a utility leading into it (accessed from the house). May have a door into the garage as well though so easy access. That's after the loft conversation is complete though (currently has velux windows) and all the bedrooms are decorated....... No rest for the wicked! Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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New home. Needs a good sort out before I can properly start work again as half the house is in there at the moment but it's warm, dry, has power, lights, water and a beer fridge! Need to take a step back as I'm already thinking of ways to turn it into the ultimate man cave! Lol. House first, then garage work / car........... Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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1993 VR6 Radiator Info And Replacement proceedure.
seanl82 replied to harrisvr6's topic in Engine Bay
A toad ai606 can be had for 250 fitted, and they have excellent reviews. My carhad remnants from 3 old alarms actually. The working was dangerous and if even a single one of those were fitted by a pro, they should be ashamed! I replaced the entire looks in the end for one that had only had a single alarm fitted previously due to the state of it. Twisted wire, phase tape and scotch locks are not sufficient imo. A roper soldered joint which necessitates cutting the loom in order to fit heat shrink is the only way to ensure a safe and secure joint. -
Was probably me as I genuinely thought that's what mine was originally! :Lol:
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Welcome! [emoji16] Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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Another £400 service. Oil and filter, brake fluid, drain and top up fuel, new fuel filter. Worth back flushing the water system too as it could be pretty cruddy and blocked, then when you're happy its free flowing top up with g13 and demin water. Check spark plugs and visually inspect leads and dizzy/coil pack. That should give you and cent start point. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
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Mine arrived today, thanks Ron! :thumbleft:
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Waiting with much excitement for mine! :dance: Daft I've waited until now to get one, I'm over a month behind now!
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Seeing as its been off the road for so long, brake fluid should be changed anyway but yes, it may make a difference to the pump. The valves are what usually fail, and they generally get a bit sticky if left too long with stagnant or fluid with moisture present. Replace the ABS module first then see if it brings up any further faults. If it throws up an inlet or outlet valve on the pump, take it for a bit of a spin if you can and get aggressive on the brake pedal. It has been known to free the valves up so worth a shot before replacing it mate.
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Makes sense, They're prone to water damage. Water gathers on the scuttle, passes down fan cowling and into that area which kills the ABS ECU.
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1993 VR6 Radiator Info And Replacement proceedure.
seanl82 replied to harrisvr6's topic in Engine Bay
Yeah the sides of the bumper are just slotted into guides so will just slip off when pulled forward. You'll have to take the screws out from the wheel arch liner though. The fog light loom is connected behind the bumper. If you unclip the repeaters you should be able to see where it connects in from. A long phillips screwdriver will allow you to get the two headlight screws out. You'll need to take the grille off first as mentioned. Remember to support the cross member before removing the 4 bolts too! -
Handbrake light intermittently going on and off
seanl82 replied to KARMANN's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
I think it also indicates low brake fluid.......... Worth a check anyway Fraser. -
Super loud popping/clunking from front passenger wheel area
seanl82 replied to Lucassayers7's topic in Drivetrain
Are you in the US then? You could replace the bump stops if they look ropey, but you shouldn't need to replace the spring seats if they're in decent condition and the springs are sat in them properly. -
I've just realised its my fault, sorry! I was reading another thread and replied to your one here, but it was on the starter motor! The mk4 4mo starter motor is an exact fit, not the alternator! :bonk: Apologies for causing you such hassle mate!
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Super loud popping/clunking from front passenger wheel area
seanl82 replied to Lucassayers7's topic in Drivetrain
You will feel far more especially with a lowered car, but I'd also replace the top mounts and top mount bearings if I were you. There should be a bit of a gap between the turret and top mound top plate, but it shouldn't wobble about with pressure on it. They're obsolete unfortunately, but get the best you can afford (Lemforder are recommended) as with lowered suspension they will break down quicker. Wheel size and type profile will also have a hand in what you're experiencing so if you have anything over 16" and 45 profile wheels, it will make a very noticeable difference in feel and weight of steering -
Remove the bypass valves and just plumb the pipework directly to through to the bulkhead using copper pipe like below. You should then be able to tell if its the matrix or the bypass valves that are faulty. More likely bypass valves, but if your matrix is old then the additional pressure on it by removing them may cause it to pop. Worth replacing it if you can as I'm not sure the bypass valves are still available. If you can get them then you may be ok.
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I'm not so sure. It's not super low mileage but does look very tidy indeed. Dealers seam to be going nuts for them at the moment though so who knows. That would be top retail price in my opinion for a valver. Add 3k if it was a G60, and 5k+ if it were a VR.
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Just saw your other post, I take it the car hasn't seen the road in a while? If I were you, get your brake disks and pads sorted, then go for a short drive. Once you're over 15mph the ABS system will become active so it'll either go off and all will be well, slam on the brakes a few times to see if the pump valves kick in and clear up if they've become a bit sticky, or get a multimeter and google the wheeler dealer episode on the Corrado to check your sensors, or have a search on this forum for the link to the guide I did on my old mk3 Golf (pretty much the same) to see if your sensors are working. Other than that, get a different OBD reader or ask around if there is someone close with VCDS who will read the codes for you. Not seen that OBD reader before so no idea why it won't connect. Probably compatibility of some sort.
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Get one from a mk4 4mo. The power output is greater so it's like a little turbine and fires right up! Direct fit too. GloucesterOx recommended it to me after Vince recommended it to him. Much more about and probably cheaper too.
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That means its had the re-call, but the one on the right as you look from the front is the inlet, and the left is the outlet. If the pipe between is hot and the two into the bulkhead and matrix are cooler, then its bypassing and not feeding hot water for the blower to...........blow. Your matrix may need replacing at that point unless as Cressa has said, and either your slider isn't working properly (much less common failure than the later dial type), or the foam inside the heater box where the flap is has broken down and both hot and cold air are being blown through. Is it cold or just warm, and does it cool when driving but warm up when stationary?
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Are both pipes that come through the bulkhead getting hot? If so it's doing it's job. Check the bottom rad hose as the engine warms up. If it's getting hot at the same rate as the top rad hose, your stat is stuck open. If it stays cold until water reaches near 90 it's working correctly. If it's an early car and has a bypass valve before going into the matrix, see if it's hot either side, but cooler on the pipes coming out of the bulkhead, the it's doing it's job and your matrix is blocked
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Haha, been in your shoes so I know your pain! Once everything is back in the bay it should all look a bit tidier. It just looks like a complete snakes wedding when it's all over the place and loose like that. Good luck with it, it'll come good I'm sure! :thumbleft:
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Condolences to the family. I don't think I ever met him but a sad fact none the less.
