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Thread: Electrical gremlins, help!

  1. #11
    So after the 24ish hr charge the battery was at 13.18V when I took it off the charger. Put it back on the car. Started no problem. 14.6V at the alternator with the engine running. Switched the engine off & connected the Ammeter between the +ive lead & the +ive on the battery a draw of 2.28A! With everything switched off. I have so far checked the boot, glovebox & interior light. Pulled all the fuses & relays one at a time no change.The head unit. I gave up after it got dark & my head torch went flat! I have left the battery in the car but disconnected for now.

  2. #12
    2.2A is only 30 Watts - the dash lights and ECU can pull that easily. Plus, if you connect an ammeter how long did you wait before taking a reading? If you only just connected it - there's many self checks will take place at first power on and the current drain is likely to be higher.

    Your 13.1v is sign the battery hasn't rested enough after charging, that doesn't mean much. The only numbers that really tell the truth are the voltage output by the battery when under load. If recommend fully charging the battery, then leave it at least an hour off the car; then read the voltage. Put it back on the car and measure the voltage again with the ignition and some lights on. It should drop, but not too far, and more importantly it should recover to 12.6v or so once the load stops. If you genuinely have 2+ amps constantly then you would want to check anything with a permanent live.. like the stereo, the engine coolant run-on circuit and the window controls.

    A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.
    Last edited by dr_mat; 9th October 2017 at 8:28 PM.
    [ WARNING: the above message may contain irony, sarcasm and outright lies. ]

    ** Every time you think about sex, another Corrado gets written off. **

  3. #13
    So after leaving the battery in the car but disconnected for a couple of days it is had 12.88 Volts. Did some more where's the current going tests by taking out the hidden fuse that does the electric windows ect. Disconnected the cooling fan & the heater blower fan. No change in the 2.28A current draw. I took out the diode pack from the alternator & disconnected the +ive lead from this put the tester between the bolt & +ive lead reconnected the battery no change so proved the diode pack isn't at fault. put back together. Any way after about 20 minutes with the tester back on between the+ive on the Battery & the main +ive lead the current draw went down to 1.48A. So now i am thinking I didn't charge it for long enough the other week or its not holding a full charge anymore (knackered). Something is switching on when the car is parked up that I don't know about, central locking pump maybe? I would be pretty happy if the current draw stays at 1.48V because of what Dr Mat said & I also did a comparison test on my mk2 caddy sdi van which will start fine after being parked up for weeks & that had a current draw of 1.76A strait after I connected the test meter.

  4. #14
    ⋆⋆ CF Member ⋆⋆ MarkR's Avatar
    Join Date
    28th January 2013
    Weald of Kent
    How old is the battery?
    1996 Corrado VR6 Midnight Blue
    2007 Lotus Elise 111r Super Touring
    1996 Land Rover Defender County
    2015 MINI JCW
    2016 Range Rover Sport

  5. #15
    Ok yeah you'd definitely not got the battery fully charged before. Monitor it a while longer. They do wear out on cars that get little use.

    A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.
    [ WARNING: the above message may contain irony, sarcasm and outright lies. ]

    ** Every time you think about sex, another Corrado gets written off. **

  6. #16
    The Battery was fitted 9/5/15 68 Ah with a 2 year guarantee. The car does get little use. I reconnected the battery last Saturday 12.7V 0.9A draw, did a 5 mile round trip. Sunday 12.41V 0.09A draw, did a 17 mile round trip. Wednesday did a 3 mile round trip. Friday Battery dead. I have had the battery on a slow charge since Friday evening think I will leave it on that & put back on Monday. Unless there is something switching on I am unaware of when the car is parked up I am thinking it is time for a new battery. My dad recons it would be worth taking it to a garage / shop with one of those battery testers to see what that says? I have got the 96A alternator fitted so was wondering if it would be worth fitting a battery with higher Ah ratting?

  7. #17
    Just outside the 2 year warranty, sounds about right! Lol.

    Issue with lead acid batteries is that if they become discharged capacity is lost, so every day it spends at less than 100% charge shortens the useful life of the battery. At the end of the day you pay fifty or sixty quid to get a "new" one, which is essentially a recycled old one in a new box.

    The only way to figure out for 100% certain if the battery is gone is to measure its capacity. That means either put a small electric load on it from fully charged and time how long it takes to go flat, or the opposite - time how long it takes to fully charge at a known charge rate. Modern cars with start/stop track the current going in and out of the battery to avoid stopping the car at the lights when it might not be capable of restarting it, but with older cars we have to do this work ourselves..

    (The old fashioned load testers at halfords et al just dump current and measure the voltage from the battery under heavy load - somewhat similar to starting the car. This gives you some idea of the cranking power but is a crude measure of capacity.)

    I find these handy:

    They aren't always the most reliable to connect to but when it detects you're in the vicinity of the car it checks the voltage and gives you an alert. For the cash it's very useful way of keeping track of battery state on a car you don't use every day.

    A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.
    Last edited by dr_mat; 22nd October 2017 at 11:51 AM.
    [ WARNING: the above message may contain irony, sarcasm and outright lies. ]

    ** Every time you think about sex, another Corrado gets written off. **

  8. #18
    Join Date
    2nd August 2017
    Paisley, Scotland
    How did you get on then? Old post, but thought I'd chuck in my tuppence worth after having a similar issue. I replaced the battery with a monster Varta and was happy for a few weeks until it died again.. After pulling fuses,and still hitting a blank i finally spotted a strange phenomenon. Likely to be an isolated case mind, but thought i'd share anyway!

    After washing the car and driving it into the garage, closing it and then returning to it a few mins later (had forgotten something in the garage) i spotted that the headlights were switched on.. Checked the headlight switch and it was in the off position? Flicked on and off, headlights still on!! Popped the bonnet and noted some water had collected around the battery area. FINALLY (after much head scratching and looking) turned over the headlight relay switch to find that water had been running down the bonnet support rails (sorry i'm sure that is incorrect terminology) - the area where the bonnet rests on the wings, drained across over the top of the battery and been dripping down onto the relay switch.. Two connection points were then bridged causing the headlights to come on. This took a few minutes to happen whenever washing the car, hence why i was away from it before realising the headlights were switching themselves on and draining the battery!

    Like i said probably an isolated case, but just something to check!

    I've attached a photo showing the corroded connection points where arcing had been occurring.. So replaced with an equivalent relay, silicone over the top, and used a small cable tie to keep it out the area. Also took a mountain of leaves and debris out of the scuttle panel which was probably preventing appropriate drainage..


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