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Thread: Replacing heather matrix, what else can I replace?

  1. #11
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    Just take your time, take plenty of pictures and make sure you label everything. Be very careful with any plastic held on with metal screws, as it might break, check that the three stud nuts in the engine bay (bulkhead side) come off before you do anything else - these and the glove box were my biggest problems as one of the studs had seized.

    You can do it without removing the whole dash, but it's nearly the same amount of labour and clearances are very tight. As said above, replace the seals and felt, reline the flaps in the heater control box, look at the bowden heater control cables and replace if needed, check the heater controls for wear, tidy up and wrap any loose cabling, replace any blow bulbs in the dash, put a fuse on your headlight switch earth, replace the matrix feed and return hoses etc.

    There's loads of really good guides on the heater matrix replacement procedure - do a search on here or your search engine of choice and you'll find plenty of info.

    Oh, and don't put a cheap matrix in as replacement - get a good quality Hella or Valeo item or go to the dealer - you won't want to be doing this again in a hurry.
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  2. #12
    CF-oholic! Jon_vr6's Avatar
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    The worse screw to remove is the one behind one of the vents in centre console. Also wd40 the bolts in the engine bay prior to removal which hold the heater box to the fire wall.

    Mystic Blue Storm VR6
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  3. #13
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon_vr6 View Post
    The worse screw to remove is the one behind one of the vents in centre console. Also wd40 the bolts in the engine bay prior to removal which hold the heater box to the fire wall.

    Yep. I use a miniature ratchet with a Philips hex bit on it to get at those screws - gives that right angle that's needed.
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  4. #14
    Enthusiast SR_Neale's Avatar
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    Gold finger had a good guide for dash removal and heater matrix which he used to email out. I don’t think he has been on here for some time though. I will see if I still have it on my old phone. If not I’m sure someone else will have one from goldfinger they could forward on. Also I think adhesive backed felt from the hobby craft shop is a popular choice for re placing the rotten foam.

  5. #15
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ swiftkid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fendervg View Post
    Yep. I use a miniature ratchet with a Philips hex bit on it to get at those screws - gives that right angle that's needed.
    Looks like a right useful tool that, where's it from?


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  6. #16
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swiftkid View Post
    Looks like a right useful tool that, where's it from?

    It's made by Victorinox, the Swiss Army knife people - I bought it years ago to go with a multi-tool, and have used it lots on everything from coffee machines to the car - it was the only way I could undo the awkward trim screws inside the heater vents.

    It's incredibly strong, and you can get an extension bars as well - not cheap unfortunately, but you might find better prices or a similar alternative with a bit of searching.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victorinox-...orinox+ratchet
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  7. #17
    I thought I would share an update. I manage to get everything with no problems. Was worried abou tthe glovebox but this came out with ease.

    Ran into problems with the 3 bolts in the engine pay. Rusted and spinning. Will tackle it again on Saturday, may need to cut the bolts off.

    Fingers cross everything be OK over the weekend.


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