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Thread: 1995 Corrado VR6 Breaking VW MS VSR..., LSD, H&R coilovers, Big Valve Hd, Shrick cam

  1. #31
    ⋆⋆ CF Member ⋆⋆ easypops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keyo View Post
    Just trying to get my head round what caused this poor chaps fire, when he says HVAC is that the air conditioning ?
    Can anyone speculayte in laymans temrs what happened and about diconnecting the battery ? Cheers.
    I have this car, as far as I’m aware, the fire broke out at the heater fan, it’s certainly the most melted part. The fire went all the way behind the dash as it’s quite warped. Electrical fire, so disconnection of the battery seems the sensible thing to try to do, which is easy to say after the event
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  2. #32
    Regular Keyo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply.
    Would you disconnet the positive/red cable first in such an incident ?
    I wonder why one of the fuses didnt prevent this. I have an interest in this because I have purchased a VR6 a couple of months back and I noticed there was three different reciepts over two years detailing repair (not new) to heater resistor pack and also new heater motor, at present no 2 setting is not working on fan and also only hot air blowing windscreen and cold heat in all other direction settings, also for some reason cant move the air direction switch all the way up to windscreen screen , so having a bit of a mare ha

  3. #33
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    Always negative off first, always negative connected last.

  4. #34
    CF-oholic! seanl82's Avatar
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    The heater resistor is a common failure and gives symptoms of the heater only working on setting 4. The position of the fan and the inlet duct for it in the scuttle panel area means when the seal breaks down, it allows rain water in. This is likely to be the reason it cought on fire, as either it arced on the electrical components or as you may have had, just dried out the bearing on the fan causing it to become noisy and necessitating replacement. The other problem you have is that the direction flap is covered in foam which should direct warm/cold air to where it's set, but if the foam is broken you'll get air to your dash vents regardless. Finally, the direction dial is also a common problem as the Bowden cables attached from the dial to the airbox become stiff, so end up being forced and either break the teeth on the gearing, jump teeth, or break the mounting points for the cables. Heater matrix is weak and can block so you'll only get warm or cold air, or they'll rupture and spill boiling hot coolant into your foot well. Early signs are fogging of the windscreen. All common problems (except the fire which is rare and extreme) unfortunately.
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  5. #35
    Regular Keyo's Avatar
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    Thanks for detailed reply.

    The Heater Matrix was fixed in the last 2 years it says on receipt sent off too specialist for repair (not sure why they didnt buy a new one when there are loads on ebay ??????) It cost £650 there abouts mostly for labour I guess. .

    The Heater resistor pack had x 3 repairs over 2 years not sure why they didnt buy a new Resitor pack are they unavailable????

    My blower speed control is not working on 2 , 4 is fine so god knows.

    Looks like the hardest thing to fix is the bowden cable .

  6. #36
    Resistor pack doesn't usually go, it's usually just the thermal fuse on it that goes from fatigue. Replace the thermal fuse (carefully) and you're good. I replaced the heater fan on mine too as it started failing, became incredibly stiff.
    As for the fuse .. yeah but it's running on a 10A which is enough to make something pretty hot in the first place, and so many people react to a fuse blowing by putting in a higher rated one that used cars are a bit of a minefield when they've been owned by a tinkerer ..
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